That is an incredibly disturbing mental image.
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Cleveland, OH
If we're talking pockets here, I desolder the bottom ribbon cable and solder it back together.
It's surprisingly easy and is the fastest way I think.
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Louisiana
Holy crap Justin I never thought of doing that. Lol nice I'm totally going to try that out.
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Easton, PA, USA
The Gut Wrenching Saga Ends! 3rd try and it came out perfect, sardine roller kitsch suggested worked well, foil still went silly, but looks pretty nice. normal polarization blue led3 and pepto buttons. It's a good day today.
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Texas
Okay, so I think I might have been able to salvage an LCD that I previously thought was a lost cause. I must have somehow missed the second layer, and I was able to remove it this time. The problem is, there is some residue left over on the backside of the LCD. I haven't been brave enough to attempt to clean it off because I'm unsure if it would destroy the LCD. Is there a proper way to clean it?
Last edited by Aerotype (May 1, 2012 11:16 pm)
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San Diego
Q-tips and rubbing alcohol, 99% if you can get it. Don't worry about ruining the LCD with that, the glass is pretty tough and the alcohol won't eat through anything like other house hold cleaners.
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Texas
Vile wrote:
Q-tips and rubbing alcohol, 99% if you can get it. Don't worry about ruining the LCD with that, the glass is pretty tough and the alcohol won't eat through anything like other house hold cleaners.
Thanks it works great now. Another problem though. When I put everything back together it works fine, until I close the shell and screw it back together, I can tell it's a tight fit, and it won't power on. If I loosen the screws and make a gap between the front and back shell it powers on. What is happening, and how can I fix this?
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matt's mind
what type of backlight, and which tutorial did you follow?
some say that you don't need to cut any of the plastic frame. not cutting the part that the wires overlap puts pressure on the wires/PCB when the case is put back together, and this isn't good of course.
so, *if* you're using a backlight which claims you don't need to snip the plastic, don't believe it. you should.
OR, the backlight is a thicker model than most now???
so, where did you get, what did you follow?
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Texas
kitsch wrote:
what type of backlight, and which tutorial did you follow?
some say that you don't need to cut any of the plastic frame. not cutting the part that the wires overlap puts pressure on the wires/PCB when the case is put back together, and this isn't good of course.
so, *if* you're using a backlight which claims you don't need to snip the plastic, don't believe it. you should.
OR, the backlight is a thicker model than most now???
so, where did you get, what did you follow?
Pretty sure this is one of Nonfinite's older 1.5mm dual smt backlights, and I've only ever followed his tutorials. I'm pretty sure the newer backlights have slimmed down since then, and yeah I have to snip the plastic. What I was actually doing is just swapping the backlight from an LCD with a broken ribbon cable, to another functioning LCD. I think what was happening was the wire coming from the red line and resistor was touching another solder point on the pcb when it was closed, so I surrounded it with scotch tape (lol, ran out of electrical tape). It works fine now, so I'm guessing that was the problem, or I just got lucky when closing it up this time.
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Texas
So the other LCD that I thought I ruined attempting to peel the film off 2 years ago was actually okay also. Same situation as the first one: I had only started to peel off the foily layer, and it start peeling in fine strips and I thought it was doomed, but the polarizer layer was still there, and it came off all in one piece, woohoo! Finally I can use these extra backlights that have been sitting in my drawer for 2 years, lol.
Word of advice, stick a piece of white paper behind the LCD and if it still appears to be that infamous shade of green (or greenish tint), you haven't peeled both layers off.
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San Diego
Yeah, my very first backlight installation I did the same thing. E-mailed kitsch a few times to figure out what the hell I was doing wrong. After I figured that out they've been much easier since. Even started backlighting pockets as well, although I haven't tried the soldering technique yet with those screens.
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Easton, PA, USA
Aerotype wrote:
Word of advice, stick a piece of white paper behind the LCD and if it still appears to be that infamous shade of green (or greenish tint), you haven't peeled both layers off.
wow I did not know that, which explains why my inverted screen is normal. which is alright with me
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washington
Reading this is kinda scaring me, I'm backlighting my pocket soon. D:
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Easton, PA, USA
nah don't sweat it, if it is your first time, go at the speed of molasses, with a fresh blade, and have a backup. besides the extra parts are an upside, cases to paint, extra screen cover, and since biverting and pitch mods are done on the mother board, I've got extra to mess with. Still havent done any pockets yet.
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I always use the piece of paper with polarizer film to make sure my screens have no lines etc. I have an extra sheet I ordered from nonfinite forever ago thinking I had scratched mine installing it (turns out it was a hair between the layers) do I just stick a piece of paper and that non adhesive sheet between the screen and turn up contrast to make sure a huge black block appears.