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Hello its me again xD.

I FINALLY managed to get the film off the back of my DMG's LCD. Took a lot of effort but the thing finally came free. So thanks for the help.


I've run into another snag though, and maybe you guys could help me out again. I bought one of nonfinite's new version 3 ultra backlights. The problem I've got is that when I insert it into the frame the backlight wont slot in as its supposed to. The reason for this is that the wires that come off of the backlight dont bend and are too tight to the backlights side. At first I thought maybe this was because I had put it in the wrong way round but even inserting it the other way yields the same problem. Here's a picture: 

The V3s are meant to just slot straight in with no cutting. As the tutorial video shows (At 2:55): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmE3ztwCvcg

I cant understand what Im doing wrong with this one. Any ideas? sad

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Louisiana

I'm gunna try to help you out here man. Ignore the tutorial about the no cutting part. Look at this very shittily drawn diagram I drew up just for you in about 5 seconds lol.

OBEY the lines!!! Do it!!!

Originally I think they were designed to go in without cuttin at all but hea made a few revisions to them that make the adhesive that helps hold the wires in place come out a little to much. Even so not cutting the plastic frame would result in your wires being pinched at some point which can cause issues in the future. Just save yourself the heart ache and snip snip and you'll be fine.

And here's a picture of my pussy for good luck.

Well...good luck. But you'll be fine seriously. Now get that bitch in there! smile

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Awww you did me a picture and everything heart


xD. Sounds like a plan, it shouldnt be too much to remove it. My only fear is that that particular bit of the frame is right under the lower ribbon cable. Is there a good tactic for getting under there with clippers safely?

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Louisiana

Just be very careful with holding it up and you can snip it with really sharp wire cutters and it'll cut through it very easily and safely. You'll be cutting at bit of an angle but you can do it. I do it all te time. Your main concerns will the the ribbon of course but mainly make sure you don't accidentally scratch the traces on the PCB below. You will notice a few tabs on the other side of the board that you can push through that will loosen the plastic frame a little and let you lift it just enough to avoid scratching the traces on the PCB. You'll be fine man just don't be nervous. Being nervous will just make you shakey and cause you fuck up. Now get that shit done man and show it off. Lol

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Huraaay, its in. But the LCD is raised a little more than it was before. Is this normal?

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Louisiana

Sweeeet!! And yes that is normal for nonfinites screens. It's suggested you cut the soldering points down a little that the screen sits on to avoid pressure points. But id say just try it out put the gameboy together, just don't tight te top two screws as tightly as normal at first and see if your backlight looks okay. Turn te gameboy on and check for pressure points if there aren't any proceed to tighten te screws a little more if needed and check again for pressure points. Basically just screw the screws in until you start feeling a little more tension than usual once you fee that tension, check the screen for pressure points. And if it all turns out good congrats on your first backlight mod. It's one of the hardest to do I've seen besides putting a pocket screen in a DMG...but fuck that noise. Post a pic of the end result. Love to see the screen and the gameboy.

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Awesome, thanks for the help! The last thing I have to do is solder the speaker back on, as it was broken off on this DMG. Is there a way to tell which way is positive and negative?

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Poland, Gdansk

doesnt matter

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Louisiana

Uhmmm for the speaker I do believe this guy is right in that it doesn't matter. But I'm not 100% possitive on that. And I currently don't have a gameboy popped open that I can take a look at and test anything on. Just try one way and if it doesn't work just swap the wires. You can do that in about 3 minutes. There's also no need to put the game boy back together to test this...just slide the ribbon cable from the top pcb into its slot on the back pcb and turn the gameboy on with volume turned all the way up. If you hear the classic Nintendo "Paling" sound pure good. If not..swap the wires. If that fails then something is wrong with the speaker or a trace on the board. It's known to happen...just get used to headphones for awhile. Or try to get a spare speaker of someone. Which lots of people have them. Or try to mod in a gameboy color speaker..which is possible.

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Poland, Gdansk

Yep. Im right. The polarity doesnt matter with only one speaker

Last edited by scannerboy (Jun 12, 2012 12:09 pm)

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Cleveland, OH

I always cut the entire bottom of the plastic out. I've found that all theses panels technically fit but they are always raised up at the bottom causing pressure when tightening up the board.

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matt's mind

i've answered so many emails about that kit/process, haven't seen a unit but get emails.....   even though it says not to cut, it needs to be cut to fit without putting pressure on the wires coming out the bottom.

and, the speaker doesn't matter which was you solder it back.

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Austin, Texas

I have a couple of these I'm waiting to put in until I have the complete set for every mod I'm doing to those game boys.

I'm glad I read this first, thanks for sharing your experiences.

So, do any true "no cutting" LED backlights exist?

I'd switch to EL forever, but my ears are really sensitive to the hum. hmm

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Chicago IL
Telerophon wrote:

So, do any true "no cutting" LED backlights exist?

why? it's the easiest part of putting in a backlight.

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Austin, Texas

Just curious.

I'm getting used to the destructive aspect of hardware mods, but I still have a hangup about cutting out part of the original hardware if I don't have to.

Last edited by Telerophon (Jul 18, 2012 4:56 pm)

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Chicago IL

maybe you should just use a nuby