DMG Build Blog (Page 5 of 9)

Wouldn't it just be easier to wire up the cart header pin holes in the bottom gameboy pcb directly to the 31 pins that normally make contact with the header instead of wiring to the header in the mmc? Then wire up a switch in a more convenient location in the shell instead of where it is located on the mmc.

For the Arduinoboy rebuild, if you do your PCB yourself (the design i mean, then send the design to seeedstudio for example for manufacturing) , it can be very small, as you don't need every output or input pin you can reduce this to a very  small size, the worst stuff in arduoinoboy is that it use standard midi circuitry so it need a optocoupler and other component, if you use usb midi, you don't need that at all.. but Arduinoboy firmware need to be reprogrammed. (what i'm trying to do with a Teensy)

Excellent, glad to see we're on the same page.

Hey boddah what size potentiometer are u using to place at the top of the gameboy and do u have to sand it a a little or does it fit and I realize to that ur gonna have to cut the front pcb to fit it but is that it.

Alright is the getlofi potentiometer 250k fine  to use that comes with the kit.

Ohh alright thank you.

So I've been extremely busy trying to finish this project lately, but I've run into another problem and if anyone could help that would be great!

On the DMG motherboard, I decided to use a newer one due to the original one not working even after replacing all of the capacitors. I started by removing the cart connector and power board, then cut the two bottom corners of the pcb, and reattached the power board. I tested it and it worked perfectly, the screen just showed the black bar going down the screen as it normally would without a cart inserted. Then I removed the power switch and the top right capacitor (C1 100uf/10V), then cut down the two top corners. I then reattached the C1 cap by attached the (+) leg to another point that was going to the same place as the capacitor originally was, then attached the (-) leg to the link port's ground shield. The power switch was then attached, connecting the pins in order, 1->2 and 3->4. If I'm not mistaken, 1 & 2 are VCC and 3 & 4 are GND. But then when I tested it using an AC adapter, the backlight would turn on and there would be either a single horizontal line near the bottom of the screen or multiple ones, but when turned off it would do the normal horizontal line across the bottom of the screen and then fade away. None of the components got hot during the testing, and I've double checked to make sure there aren't any shorts. I haven't replaced the caps on the new pcb, so perhaps that may be the problem? But it worked with the old caps before removing the power switch and cap C1 so I'm not sure...

Any suggestions?