Replacement ribbon cable for DMG LCD (Page 1 of 2)

It's probably a doable fix, but given how inexpensive and readily available Game Boys are, I'd probably just buy a new Game Boy (a really scuffed up one is maybe $5-10 locally) and use it as a donor.

I'm not sure i'm quite game enough. Soldering the wire onto the back PCB is nice and easy, but trying to solder onto the front PCB behind the LCD is a real bitch. Not really sure what other options there are so i'm gonna let it sit for a while!

Theres some flat heatshrink cabling that my local electronics store sells (that Im guessing is made for ribbon cables). Ill give it a go and see what happens!

YES! I think this would be a fantastic idea.

the LCDs themselves are just about done (which is the overwhelming bulk of the hard part of the project), the PCB for it is awaiting the LCD, and then its the real crunch time getting everything integrated together.  fun fun.

ok, i'll have a look at getting these remade!  i need a way to connect the new front PCBs with the original backs, so needed to make this style 'cable' at some point anyways, so it works out all the same in the long run for me. 

people will have to pop up the plastic frame from the PCB to do this, but it shouldn't be too big a deal I don't think.  regardless, i've gotta do it, so yeah, i'll just get started on this right now and make them available individually and then i'll have them done later.

(strangely and awesomely), my ex-GF has offered to help me doing kitsch-bent stuff the rest of the weekend.  its a great time to bust my ass and get stuff wrapped up and other things started.  excited to have read this thread!

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Last edited by luftek (Aug 8, 2017 8:19 pm)

that soldering iron tip is pretty cool (but its for repairing dead LCD lines due to shoddy ribbon cable connections going to the LCD (the glass), not quite this sort of thing).  although i don't see why you couldn't adapt it for this, you might find it less frustrating if you do each point one by one, with a basic conical tip.  not sure how the teflon coating will affect the ability to solder either.  i'd guess it would prevent the solder from interacting with the iron's tip in some way, but really have no clue about this.  its coated to keep it from bonding to the rubber/silicone part i'm assuming.

was just poking about and ran across this guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-Soldering-I … mp;vxp=mtr

its 10% off for the next some hours, and free first class shipping in USA.  the other tip you posted seems to be aussie shipping only (at least, no usa shipping).  which is fine just noticing.  and i think this whole kit is cheaper than the equivalent iron alone from radio shack.  the same seller has the tip + silicone kits, without the soldering iron, in their shop too for those of you with an iron that will take the tip.  not entirely sure that's actually a silicone part, i think they call it just rubber in the text, but for it to withstand the amount of heat that's penetrating it just a hunch its a silicone part. 

seems this is the handheld/home equivalent of the machines which make these sorts of connections in a factory.  its basically the same thing, functionally at least.  i like how this version can slide along the slilicone strip so you (presumably) don't have to move it each length/step of the way.

but, anyways, i picked up one of these tips with the silicone pressure/heat things and am very anxious to try it now.  i've been using a large chisel style solder tip for this sort of repair (dead LCD lines), because the larger surface area, so am thinking this is going to be an epiphany of sorts.  thank you soooo much for posting your find, it might even fix the dreaded horizontal lines!  new tools are so much fun