1) Why not just post every auction in the same thread? It will bump it to the top and you'll get the exact same amount of publicity from it.
2) Your link doesn't work.
3) Titles should be descriptive.
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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by catskull
1) Why not just post every auction in the same thread? It will bump it to the top and you'll get the exact same amount of publicity from it.
2) Your link doesn't work.
3) Titles should be descriptive.
I should update, I ended up going with the AV famicom. I also got a cheap tomee nes -> famicom adapter, which seems to work great. I have tested it with Star Versus which uses Bastly Adams' flash cart. It does not seem to work with my Infinite NES Lives SxROM Pulsar cart unfortunately. Not sure what's going on there.
Toploader Famicom w/ NES -> famicom converter.
A/V out goodness.
That's what I think I've decided on. Seems to be the best out the box. Can you confirm what power it needs? Is it just 9v DC like the frontloader NES?
Also, what NES -> famicom converter do you use? Does it work pretty well? Any issues or anything?
Thanks for all the input! The super8 would be great, but way out of my price range.
I should have clarified. I'm not really looking for a clone system.
I meant out of the 4(5?) official releases, which is the best?
The famicom looks great and cheap, but it only does rf out? Is it pretty simple to add component? Also, I'd have to get an adapter to play nes games. Seems like those are a lot easier to get ahold of than 60 to 72 pin adapters.
The front loader NES is nice, but the 72 pin can be funky and playing famicom carts isn't the easiest. Also no expansion audio out of the box.
The top loader NES looks cool, but only rf out. Again, this can be modded for component but you still have all the limitations of the front loader.
The AV famicom looks to be the best. Expansion audio, component out, everything.
The twin famicom looks okay, but expensive and overkill for me. I don't really plan on playing any FDS games.
Anything I'm missing here?
I'm looking at setting up a one-stop solution for all my NES/famicom gaming needs.
I'm mostly looking at an AV famicom. Will that work fine here in the US? There seems to be readily available 72 to 60 pin adapters out there, do those work well with this?
Any other tips you would have for me?
That's clearly a stock DMG and everyone knows it's impossible to do any LSDJ work unless your DMG is customized.
Just an update on this, I opened it up and the board looks to be different that other's I've seen floating around. It looks like the buck converter outputs 3.3v not 5v as others have shown. So that would make sense why other's work fine on an NES.
The ebay seller issued me a refund, so that's cool.
I've ordered another one from amazon that seems to be 5v compatible.
zii.hrs wrote:Hardcore as f***
It's only hardcore if you use barbed wire for your mods
Hahaha, it seems like I've heard that in the early days farmers built out rural telephone networks using their existing barbed wire fences. Pretty hardcore.
Just get yourself a bunch of different kind of this wire: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stranded-indoor 5d521f03f0
Shipping will take a while though.
I have Yosemite and would love to help! Very comfortable at the command line.
The only thing that comes to mind is typical usb-ftdi adapters. The default driver doesn't work at all so you have to install them from the ftdi website. Even still, when flashing an arduino I have to hit reset right before it starts sending the data.
Just throw bootstrap on and call it a day?
Is there any way to fix the video signal? Does this mean that I pretty much just can't use it with my NES?
I just tested it with my c64 composite video, and it worked great!
So now I'm really at a loss here. Do these only work with 12v?
EDIT: Just tried it with my nes supply (what is that, like 9v?) and it was the exact same story.
What does the image look like when displayed in full screen mode? Is that damage in the upper right corner?
It looks the same, just stretched out. No color change. That isn't damage, it's just the stupid screen protector thing I haven't taken off yet.
I just tried another 12v wall wart and it was the same story.
I'm trying it with both a genesis and an NES and I get the same results.
What is strange though, is that initially I was using a multi A/V selector box thing and thought maybe that had something to do with it. It did not. But it has these push buttons on it that actually physically go down and complete the circuit, so there's no digital logic going on inside at all. If I rapidly press the same button down the screen glitches/flickers, but at times it will show the full color for a split second. I would assume that rapidly unplugging the rca cable would do much the same thing.
Is it possible that my screen is stuck in pal mode? Is this even what it looks like when you run an NTSC system on a pal screen?
My other idea is maybe there's a grounding issue? It looks like the only ground going into the screen comes off the 12v barrell. Shouldn't each rca jack have it's own ground?
Just a 12v 3A wall wart.
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by catskull