Does anyone have a method to separate the three channels on the Nanoloop Mono, enabling each channel to be patched individually through a mixer?

That's beautiful, Catskull, thank you.  Want it to add a small button on the front of a GBC to boost the brightness of an AGS-101 screen mod using BennVenn ribbon connector and SP AGS-101 driver board - not because it's necessary, just because it would be fun.  smile

Difficult to find small ones?

Does anyone have an easy hack or knowledge of a small pc board to enable using a momentary switch to send a constant signal? (on/off)

I've found this:  http://www.instructables.com/id/Use-a-M … shbutton-/  but am hoping someone has a ready (and very small) alternative.

When modding DMGS  (haven't modded much else yet), I find it less than suitable hardworking connections between the PCB boards (eXtra 5v regulator powering a backlight and running off unregulated 5v at the power board, for example) or between the shell and the boards (variable clock, rgb switches, pot for backlight brightness control, for example).  I'd like to introduce connectors on connections between any separate pc boards/shell halves to make disassembly easier.

Can anyone point me in the direction of small connectors suitable for this?

That's a sexy project.

There is still some slight noise through the pre-pot Prosound jack, but it is less in comparison other non-decoupled Prosound mods I've done. Perhaps doing a conplete cap replacement will help reduce noise further.

But you can load multiple versions of LSDJ on a single Everdrive, in effect having multiple saves.

There will be a prepot prosound mod also in this machine. It's actually a complete internal swap (necessary due to power problems using flash cart and backlight) , replacing the boards from a CPU revision 05 model with CPU revision 08 boards. The decoupling is something I wanted to try, since the machine was open anyway.

It does seem to have less noise now through the headphones. Exciting to hear how it is through the prosound mod.

Questions about decoupling:

1) I've added a 470uf electrolytic capacitors over what I read as the 5v regulated power and ground, using the connections that come up through the CPU board, as shown in the following image:

The connections are, as I read the voltages from the board and from top to bottom:  unregulated voltage from batteries, ground, -19v to LCD,  regulated 5v from powerboard. The red lead is positive from the electrolytic capacitor (seen to the right and below the main board), the black is negative.

Question is, have I done the connections correctly?  There is still a very slight hiss (varies in pitch and intensity when heard through the headphone jack with the sound pot turned way down). 

2) This is a big ass cap. Where it's installed is the only place it was possible to fit it. 

Questions are, are there physically smaller caps available?  And does the length of the connections due to placement compromise the effectiveness of the mod?

Thanks in advance for your help, guys.

Awesome!!!

I would be there if I was in London.

Answer coming after workday is finished.

Haven't done the fix yet.

31

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

catskull wrote:

Here's a thing I had an issue with a while back: http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/18845 … wo-shades/

Note where I cut the traces. Make sure you're not having the same issue.


Tha nk you for that link, Catskull, looks to be exactly the same problem.  As soon as I get home from work I'll gewt my head around it and do the fix.  smile

32

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Understood, Apeshit. And it makes a lot of sense.  I'll do your suggestion with a lead first, but will at the same time check out moving the board to tge other side of the LCD pcb.