865

(32 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Yup, tac.bread is right. Now, the reason I'm offering to do this as custom builds specifically is that most of No Carrier's software is the kind of thing you'll want to customise before you get it made into a cartridge. I'm more than happy to make a cartridge of anything that he wrote that you then customise, and unlike other reproduction services I won't keep hold of your ROM forever and distribute it to other people. Say you use his VegaPlay to make a NES cartridge album and have be burn some copies for you. I won't distribute them to anyone else for any reason, so your work will be safe.

866

(32 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Thanks tac.bread, I'll be happy to oblige you.

I hate how nothing ever ever supports NTSC Amigas. Nothing. EVER. What the heck are we American's supposed to do, it's an outrage! If the coders weren't just making up their interrupt timings by trial and error maybe there would be some more people in the US who use Amigas. Sheesh...

868

(32 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Thanks Low-Gain!

Maybe for speccy, but that;s because their floppy interface was pretty bad to.

Again, with 3.5 floppies care must still be taken. I know lots of people who store them carelessly because they seem to be more rugged. This simply isn't the case. Again, the floppies of which I was speaking are 3.5 floppy disks. 5.25 disks only seem more reliable because it's easier to keep in mind proper handling. Also of note, some 3.5 drives stop reading good disks over time, because by the Amiga era the drives were becoming universal  and cheaply made. I have some high quality 3.5 drives for PC and Apple IIgs which have performed perfectly with my media for a long time.

870

(32 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Just thought I'd post up an offer to do custom NES cartridges for people. I'm unemployed, short on cash, and long on free time. And there is a great plethora of software out there coming from the likes of Neil Baldwin and Bargg and No Carrier which I'm sure plenty of people would like physical cartridges of. I've got the gear and the know how to build carts for people. You hack the code up and customise it to your liking and I'll build you a one of a kind cartridge.

I have done various mappers in the past, including a few revisions of MMC1, NROM, MMC3, and MMC4. And if you need something made which I haven't done before, I'll learn the pinouts and make it if I can.

Examples of cartridges I have made in the past include GlitchNES, ScrollNES, LickShot, NTRQ,  the MottZilla 11-in-1 NROM multicart, and Mario Bros. hacks. I can do all of No Carrier's programs, because with the exception of the 9999-in-1 they're all NROM. I can make multicarts of NROM software as well, using the MottZilla 11-in1 or the No Carrier 9999-in-1.

I can do your cartridge up so it's permanently programmed, or I can socket the chips so they can be erased and re-burned later. I haven't gotten my in-cartridge USB programmer design finished yet, so that kind of reprogramming isn't an option right now. But if you get a custom cart from me and ever need it reprogrammed you just pay one-way shipping and I'll do it myself. That's my promise.

A quick note about what cartridges I will and will not make for you- I will not make you a "reproduction" cartridge of a game which has already been published. The legality of this is questionable to say the least. Fan translations are also out, unless you're the one who wrote the translation. If you hacked a game, however, I'll gladly make you a custom cartridge. This service is in the spirit of DIY, not so that you can add to your NES game collection.

That said, right now I'm thinking of charging $35 for a customised NROM cartridge, and $45 for other mappers. If you send me the correct donor cartridge you get $10 off. Any extra hardware add-ons like a multi SRAM bank or other things you might happen to need or want would be extra. Shipping anywhere in the world for $6, and if it's more than that I eat the cost.

If you need something made or have questions, post 'em here or give me a PM. I'll build em on a first-come first-serve basis.

irrlichtproject wrote:

no hard words about tapes, please. they're a much more reliable medium than 3,5" floppies, to say the least. i have the 1982 demo tape that came with the original speccy (16/48k), it works perfectly fine, which can't be said for most of my 90s amiga floppies.

That's probably because your floppies were cheap crap and were also probably stored improperly. Floppies have a lower tolerance for dirt and dampness, wheras tapes generally don't have as much of an issue with this. This is because floppies have an internal dust jacket inside of the plastic sleeve which helps them to be more reliable until the day when it gets wet and starts to get gunk on it. Stored properly, this can't happen. Barring of course delamination of the actual disk substrate, which happens to cheap disks.

I prefer 3M brand floppies (and only use 3M brand floppies) because they have the best jacket design and the best substrate. I have never had one fail which had been stored properly, and many of them are much older than I am, having been written as far back as 1984.

Also, my gripe against tapes- constant fiddling for noise levels, tensile changes which spoil your calibration from tape to tape, low data densities, and excessive load times.

872

(141 replies, posted in General Discussion)

see, it's like this- first initial, middle initial, last name. A-R-Fink. Very simple, very easy.

Well, there is a very good reason why tape drives out. They're extremely annoying. As for how to properly set the volume, that's usually just by trial and error. But I like to start with the volume 1/3 from the lowest setting and ramp it up slowly each time until it starts to work. If you wanted to be precise about it I suppose you'd hook it up to an oscilloscope and look for noise.

874

(21 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

I really need to get some NTRQ carts made... I wonder if people will be interested again? My last try failed miserably at attracting customers.

Well, I'm not a speccy people, but I do know that putting the WAV into t a tape adapter really ought to just work. Only one thing to consider, you need to be very careful with the volume adjustment. These cassette tape things are very finicky in nearly all cases on old computers, and if you have the volume set too high or two low the A/D won't pick it up and translate it into data properly. Also, keep those heads clean! Dirty heads corrupt data. And yeah, the first time it'll be trial and error, I promise you that. And if you ever change the volume controls later one. Then you'll have to zero it all in again, which is a pain.

Yeah, that thing doesn't belong in a musician's hands, but in a collector's collection. If you really wanted to make that kind of analog synth you could just nab the chip and interface it yourself, to an old computer even if you wanted to.

I know it's just the emulator, as this kinda of incredibly accurate timing just isn't present in most emulators. i can't say for Nestopia as I don't have it.

blargg wrote:

I did a quick comb effect, with a subtle color gradient horizontally. Controller d-pad adjusts the rates of each comb. NES is recommended, as I can't test it on emulators, though I imagine Nestopia would handle it correctly.

blargg_litewall-1.zip


I must say Bargg, on FCEUX and Mednafen I am getting some very interesting "tears" within the individual blocks. The edges of the blocks are perfect, but they have some kind of jagged gradienting inside of the box. I think it's just a timing accuracy thing with the emulator, and with the inaccuracies of an actual NTSC NES and NTSC display device they should be virtually unnoticeable.

879

(15 replies, posted in General Discussion)

And I bet it sounds like garbage too. wink Actually, I'd be willing to bet some people on the VC Forums or CCTalk have probably seen this, or even own it.

I wonder if anyone would have one laying about. I mean, this is quite old and most of these small-time computer companies only made a few thousand units tops.