161

(135 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

About he MMC: I think it is way more trouble then it's worth.
Can't help with the rest much.

This exactly bugs me on my electribe S.
Maybe I could help if you posted photos of the board. And the block diagram you mentioned. No promises but PM me if interested.

Probably a loose wire or dust inside of the switch. Try turning it on and off many times (without batteries) and check if it changes somehow.

164

(27 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I use MGB with LSDJ on smartboy cart and I really like it. It doesn't work well with my USB EMS (64) but I heard it works with later revisions. But this whole MGB vs. EMS story is kinda fuzzy so I don't know really.

165

(27 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Ok then. I always thought that the sound differences between DMG and MGB are caused by amps and other stuff and not by CPU. Guess there is no actual data on this anyway...

1 ... 2
3 ... 4
5 ... 6

Connect 1 and 6,
connect 2 and 5.

Wires go to 1, 2, 3 and 4.

167

(27 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Saskrotch wrote:

DMG and MGB have different CPUs.

Are you sure?

It switches the way you control each 555 oscilator. In one position OSC A is controled by the sequencer and OSC B is controled by the photoresistor or 500k pot (switchable). The other position makes it go the other way around. You can forget about the switch and have the controls fixed or you can order something like this for one $:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-250V-2A-DPDT … 53eee15af0

169

(7 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Falling For A Square wrote:

Not at all what you're looking for, but came across this and thought it was worth sharing if people stumbled on to this thread: (semi related, crazy expensive) - http://miniorgan.com/software.php

I realy like miniorgan.com but I've never seen this. Way too expensive but also quite interesting.

^ That's what I do.

Whoa, just put any AAs in there. There is voltage regulator inside which takes care of the rest.

I always wanted grey pocket! Might try this instead of geting the DMG style pocket.

By original I mean the one you refered to in your first post.

DogTag wrote:

So basically the wire connecting to ground after the 1K resistor connected to pin 2 of the APC should make it? Shouldn't those LED's have a protective resistor?

I forgot to say that in your case you don't need the LEDs as an output. You replace them with singal diode. In the original schematics he used 1N4148. When you look at that schematics at the lower part you'll see: 4 diodes, 4 potentiometers, 4 switches all connected to 4 pins of the 4017 ic. My schematics do the same, you just have to replace the LEDs with regular signal diodes and add the potentiometers. The switches are optional - it allows you to turn specific note on and off.
This is pinout of the sequencer ic:

The connection is depending on how many steps you want. If you want 8 steps you need to connect the 9th output (marked Q8) to reset pin so it cycles. If you want 4 steps you need to reset from 5th output (Q4).
Hope that makes sense.


edit: stupid gif.. just click it

edit2: sorry - got the numbers corrected

DogTag wrote:

This is not the exact schematic I was looking for, but for a standard atari punk console it does seem to work:
http://blog.makezine.com/2011/09/13/col … k-console/

The only thing I don't understand here is how the output jack is connected. I suppose that in this case it's a stereo (though I think mono should be enough?) but I don't get the connections looking at the schematic. Any help?

It is mono jack with switch. Don't bother with this. Buy mono jack - one lug to ground, the other one to APC smile

The schematics you posted are a bit gheto but quite usable. What exactly don't you understand?
Here is the tempo / sequencer part. It has 10 instead of 4 steps but otherwise works the same:

You need to add pots to the outputs (between each led and coresponding ic pin - check your schematics for that) and then sum the signal from leds and route it to pin 2 of your APC.