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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Apeshit
Topics by Apeshit
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Fudgers wrote:They're all recycled LED's. I thought I could get away with it, because I had them working on the breadboard. I did end up swapping one out, so perhaps it is an issue with the LED's.
I'll try adding more solder as well; I've got plenty on the underside of the board, but it can't hurt to be safe.
I appreciate the tips!
If any of them are in backwards, it may cause it to not function at all. Edit: Disregard; present resistors will prevent the VCC-GND short.
As for the solder: With the through-hole plating, you should visibly see the solder on the other side. I don't see that in this case (at the zener diode, for example). This probably isn't causing any problems right off the bat, but may cause poor connections after time.
I'm assuming as there is what seems to be four or five different types of LEDs on the board, you are using recycled ones? Have you double checked the polarity? There seems to be insufficient solder on a lot of the components so I'd start there.
Sounds like you put it in backwards and the light is shining away from the screen. The frontlight is probably destroyed from the rubbing alcohol anyway. Those panels can't get any artifacts or solutions on them.
Xuriik wrote:I've seen bondo get mentioned in a lot of console modding projects, don't know if it comes in clear...
Don't let "bond" in "bondo" mislead you. Bondo is a filler, not a glue. It's also for metal, and will turn into a cracked mess on plastic after a while both because it doesn't bond well and because plastic is generally too flexible.
Just use screws or nuts and bolts. Glue should be used as a last resort, especially since I guarantee you're going to be opening this up at least a couple times to fix things. The wiring on the cart slot is questionable for instance. I'd focus more so on securely mounting the cartridge slot. Use brackets if you need to. The plastic seems to be more or less just an aesthetic thing.
danimal cannon wrote: I'm sure that seemed like a good idea, but it really just made me pull my (nonexistent) hair out for 20 minutes.
Anyone else run into this issue? Wondering if this should be mentioned in the item description. I thought the fact that we didn't require license information would be enough indication that the rom wasn't a legitimate LSDj rom.
This is more than likely just the repercussion of relocating the crystal. Crystals are not supposed to be connected by wires, they're supposed to be as close to the CPU as possible with no tracks underneath to cause noise.
You can try connecting it closer to the CPU, that may reduce noise.
Telerophon wrote:I hate lead free with a passion because it's so much harder to get a wet joint with the stuff, and so much easier to cook your circuits. I also ruin my tips really fast when I'm doing lead-free (I have a cheaper iron, so it doesn't really have the best tips).
That said, I still try to use lead free as a standard operating procedure when I build something entirely with new parts. Even if you do clean solder work, is the functional life of your product in the long term still compromised by having used lead free solder?
Yeah, regardless of the quality of work, the quality is always affected when using lead free solder. The Xbox 360 is a good example of how using lead free solder can go very wrong.
You may be using a tip that's meant for lead solder. They're supposed to be dedicated for one or the other, but that's probably not the case with cheaper irons.
That's a bit of a grey area though because this isn't really _new_ equipment, where I think the distinction is made. The ICs already contain lead, and there will be trace amounts of leaded solder from using old chips anyway.
My point being, regardless of if they're actually gold plated, it's counterproductive. There is a lot of other variables with building a solid product. The bleepbloop carts were soldered with lead free solder. The parts aren't RoHS anyway, so there's no real point to this. Lead free solder oxidizes fast, and it's very likely that the solder will cause the carts to stop functioning before the edge connector oxidizes until it is non-functioning. This was the case with my USB cart, and probably the reason Kitsch was stuck with so many non-functioning carts. A combination of that and 20 year old parts can cause a lot of bad solder joints.
I could elaborate more on the physical advantages of using a smartboy or an ASM cart. I could also go into the moral concerns with plugging bleepbloop products in every single thread that mentions my carts or smartboy carts, but I'd just be beating a dead horse.
The voltage is actually ~6v, since it's connected to the batteries. The stock resistor is 1k ohm, and is probably sufficient for any type of LED if you're not up for determining the 'optimal' value.
12ianma wrote:Telerophon wrote: produced with higher quality
The bleepbloop carts had gold plated and bezeled edge connectors, they were higher quality.
You're in over your head here, Maize. Might not want to make assumptions like that, because you clearly don't know enough about manufacturing electronics.
Posts found: 545-560 of 1,010
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Apeshit