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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Apeshit
ya, I was thinking about adding some (only problem is that they are expensive)
The clear buttons? They're insanely cheap taking into consideration the cost of the mold.
Aww, was really hoping for red in the final bunch. Here's to the future, I guess!
Not many requests for red. You could always buy a clear one and paint it, though 
Old thread, but I've done a number of mods like that.
New samples just came in, and everything is perfect this time around.
I'm now doing pre-orders for the screen covers. The individual price is $5.00.
For the "big spenders" if you buy 10, one will be thrown in free.
Shipping is $3.00 for any amount of screen covers. They'll all be shipping from the US.
They all will have machine cut adhesive on the back (except clear, which will come separately) and a protective film.
As stated before the colors are:
Grey (to match the shell)
Purple (to match the buttons)
Black
White
Clear (with adhesive separate) for either clear DMGs, or DIY, or anything else.
Direct link to pre-order: http://asmelectronics.bigcartel.com
As stated previously, if there is sufficient pre-orders, another color can be added.
Three conductor 1/4" jacks are indeed used in plenty of gear, USB recording interfaces/soundcards come to mind. I'd say dual two conductor 1/4" jacks are more common, but it's not unheard of to have three conductor 1/4" jacks.
In the very least, this can serve as information to do a 1/4" headphone mod. But this tutorial is soon to be completely useless when Kitsch comes out with his new shells, because a 1/4" jack can be mounted on the right side now.
You should also do black, I've always really wanted to get a black screen cover haha
I'll be choosing:
Grey,
Purple,
Black,
White
Clear
Last call for votes.
If there isn't any objections, I'll be choosing:
Grey,
Purple,
Black,
White
Clear
And if there's enough interest, maybe one more.
With clear, I'll be bundling the adhesive piece in separately, and it will be also sold as a DIY kit, for people that want to custom paint their own screen covers.
Here's the new samples:
Very nice!
What paint did you use to paint the rubber 'start' and 'select' buttons?
They don't appear to be painted/dyed. The stock buttons are dark grey.
Wow. That's awesome. What kind of plug is that? Is it useable with common equipment?
Nope, it's just a header. If I had the hardware for it, it would.
Pretty useless, but I thought it'd serve good for informational purposes. Very clean wiring.
I think nitro2k01 mentioned on his website something about the pads for the LCD data potentially being used for video output, and this confirms that.
Thought I'd share these photos for reference.
There's a ribbon cable that feeds in under the back PCB and goes out the battery door leading to a header to plug into a video output device. So this DMG was from a store demo or something of the sort. The shell wasn't cut and the circuit board wasn't filed down, oddly enough.
Really? I didn't cut the plastic at all while installing my V3 backlights. I just got some LEDx3 kits from Kitsch, I'll give it a go installing them the same way and see how that works out.
Like I said, you only "need" to if you don't want to crush your wires. I've already done the tests, so I can save you the trouble and say it will crush the wires, or the LCD won't sit flush on the panel, or both. There's no reason not to cut the plastic. It takes ten seconds and doesn't affect the stability.
So I don't have to cut the plastic for the LEDx3 kit?
No, I'm saying you need to cut it for any backlight with that style of mounting.
Because according to nonfinite, you don't have to cut any pieces to install the backlight, it fits perfectly.
I can safely say that's not the case because I had a DMG with one of those panels come in on a repair. It's not a matter of the panel not fitting, it's a matter of whether or not you want to crush your wires. There's no space between the LCD and the plastic housing for the wires to go unless you cut the plastic.
The LEDx3 panels have the polarized film and the resistor built in, which eliminates two steps of the installation. They were designed to be beginner friendly.
And here's my opinion on some of the other mods:
- Replace capacitor using the Kitsch-Bent kit
For a first mod, this isn't necessary. It's a great kit, but Nintendo used good capacitors and you might not notice any change in performance after changing them. You'll probably end up ripping out traces if you attempt it without any soldering experience.
- Pro Sound mod (either 1/8" or RCA, I don't know which is better, any suggestions?)
Neither is better, it's a matter of preference. RCA is more difficult to install
- Bivert/invert (I don't know the difference, invert seems easier)
From left to right: Normal, inverted, biverted
http://cache0.bigcartel.com/product_ima … BGuide.jpg
Seems like you may be taking on too much for a first project. Generally ambitious first projects either will have crushed wires, won't close properly, cold solder joints, or just won't work. My best advice is to take it slow, good luck!
I had the LCD and the sound chip die on me after I finished D:
There is no sound chip on the DMG, it's all built into the CPU. There's probably just a solder bridge somewhere on the board.
- LEDx3 Backlight or V³ Triple LED Backlight (heard the LEDx3 is better but harder to install)
Why would they be harder to install? Have you compared specifications?
.
This is incredibly cool.
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Apeshit
