465

(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

My brain.

466

(135 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Matt! How much for both the GBCs together? Would you be able to hold them? I get paid on Saturday.

-Anthony

Alley Beach wrote:

i think a 1k with maybe a 47 ohm resistor added (just to be safe) should be plenty.
kitsch: how many LED's and what are the rated mA? if you dont mind tongue

I would imagine a 1k to be a bit of overkill, no?

kitsch wrote:

^ a pot would work if you'd like to dim the frontlight (they are just variable resistors anyways).  you'll have to play with the value a little bit though, i'm not sure off the top of my head.

I'm looking into picking up either a 100Ohm slider or trim potentiometers to keep the footprint small. Will update when I get around to it.

rygD wrote:

In addition to the SP light comparison it would also help to have side by side pics of a stock GBC, possibly in different environmental lighting levels(does that make sense?).

I would be interested in seeing pictures with resistors.

Oh lord.

470

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I have one and use it for sample recordings with Jam Sessions 2.

471

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

DS Lite is pretty good. I've heard of people using the DS lite to do recordings with Nanoloop.

DSC wrote:

If you are looking for a true honest review I think you need a side by side comparison with a GBC with a front light from a SP.  That is the standard IMHO.

I've frontlit GBCs with an SP light front lights in the past.

***edit***

I have frontlit GBCs in the past with SP frontlights.

Just installed one of the frontlight kits. Will be posting photos here momentarily and update with my first impressions.

The Fronlit screen

Macro Photos:

GBC with SP Frontlight

When I had the gameboy color open, I adjusted the knob for the contrast all the way counterclockwise for the most contrast and it really didn't help much.

During my first attempt to install the fronlight one of the wires came off of the solder point of the frontlight unit itself. No tugging or hard pulling, but a gentle pull and the wire came right off. Might have just been a first batch sort of error in quality

The wires used look fairly identical to the wires used with the backlight kits also available through kitsch.


First Impressions:

It's fairly washed out. It reduces the clarity of the screen and legibility fairly considerably.

The original LSDj color scheme for the color is barely legible. The best setting I found was the "Grey" color scheme for LSDj. It wasn't perfect, but it wasn't getting any better than that.

The dimples that are built-into the surface of the frontlight panel material is what helps refract the light onto the screen... but it also makes the screen hard to see.

It does the job. It is not for everyone though.

The only other options available on the market to my understanding would be the lighting/magnifier attachments for the gbc, cannibalize a AGS-001 SP, hold an LED flashlight in your mouth or have really decent lighting.


How could the product be improved

If there was any other material that could be used for the frontlight panel. Something with maybe half as many dimples to help with the clarity. I'm certain that half as many dimples would still refract enough usable light. The panel used didn't seem like it was made for the purpose of front lighting a GBC specifically. The second batch would definitely benefit from a different frontlight panel material selection.


What am I going to do now?

I'm going to mess around with it for a week or so. As of right now I am not all that happy with the product. The clear and crisp definition of the GBC screen is what I really enjoy about it, and this frontlight unit pretty much kills that. It does what it advertises it would do, but I don't know if it's a trade off I'm willing to work with personally.

At the end of the week, if I am still not happy with it, I most likely will just uninstall and use a LED head strap lamp and call it a day.

Modification of the product

You can add resistors to the kit to lower the brightness of the frontlight.

474

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

katsumbhong wrote:
Jazzmarazz wrote:

Well, no. The tutorial describes connecting it to both the +5v regulated pin and to ground respectively. The worry is actually current, not voltage. Current should be very similar in each case, but I cannot vouch for exact values at this time. If anything, I can imagine the DMG as having a larger current. Start with a 330Ohm resistor and either lessen or increase to another resistor value depending on the brightness.

This. My brain stopped working apparently. Resistors raises resistance, it does not drop voltage. Sorry for the double post

475

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Jazzmarazz wrote:
katsumbhong wrote:

Use google.

You're dropping from 6V to 3V I believe.

Well, no. The tutorial describes connecting it to both the +5v regulated pin and to ground respectively. The worry is actually current, not voltage. Current should be very similar in each case, but I cannot vouch for exact values at this time. If anything, I can imagine the DMG as having a larger current. Start with a 330Ohm resistor and either lessen or increase to another resistor value depending on the brightness.

This.

?!

Just buy the replacemnt ones.

477

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

bitjacker wrote:

like an equation? do you know what equation to use?

Use google.

You're dropping from 6V to 3V I believe.

478

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

bitjacker wrote:

like a voltage block? what value? what could i harvest one from?

Like a resistor, calculate using math, radioshack.

479

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

bitjacker wrote:

imma frontlight my dmg with this...

You'll need to add a resistor.

Bro, do you even google?