fluxer wrote:

In my experience, only PU2 consistently demonstrates this feature, and for PU1 you need to mess will the channel parameters a little bit (change pulse with, envelope, sustain on/off) and then the feature kicks in.

Found the bug on PU1, it doesn't work if the Envelope is set to the 8th setting (the setting that is right before full sustain)
Weird, it may be a compiler issue. GBDK is really buggy- though that code is written in assembly.

*edit* mGB now to version 1.3.1 - Fixed this bug.

http://code.google.com/p/arduinoboy/

Don't recall limiting it to 32 steps, if anything its 256 steps. The thing to remember though is the higher the pitch, the less steps you can have between notes because if I recall correctly the gameboy's freq for pu1/pu2 is 11 bits (2 registers, 8bit + 3bits).

A good example of this is looking at the lookup table for pitch frequencies used in mGB:

const UWORD freq[72] = {
  44,     156,  262,  363,  457,  547,  631,  710,  786,  854,  923,  986,
  1046, 1102, 1155, 1205, 1253, 1297, 1339, 1379, 1417, 1452, 1486, 1517,
  1546, 1575, 1602, 1627, 1650, 1673, 1694, 1714, 1732, 1750, 1767, 1783,
  1798, 1812, 1825, 1837, 1849, 1860, 1871, 1881, 1890, 1899, 1907, 1915,
  1923, 1930, 1936, 1943, 1949, 1954, 1959, 1964, 1969, 1974, 1978, 1982,
  1985, 1988, 1992, 1995, 1998, 2001, 2004, 2006, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2015
};

You can see that the higher the pitch, the less steps you can make between notes.

Reaper is probably sending a program change message. You can probably change that setting for the track. You can also store the presets in mGB so it recalls to your desired setting

arduinoboy wrote:

To load/save presets, put the cursor on the "PRESET" number, and hit B for load, Select+B to save

84

(29 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

plgDavid wrote:
Theta_Frost wrote:

I think this will take care of all our problems.

http://www.plogue.com/products/chipcrusher/

If i can finish it

/me awaits add to cart button

Yeah, though normally I just use a lighter and burn off the paint, takes 1 second, trick is to burn it for a quick second so it doesn't blacken up and need cleaning.

Think what I did for renoise is have ctrl+del = insert and shift+del = remove ... Not exactly sure, but it seems logical.

87

(29 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

I've built a arduino / uC 4bit synth simular to LSDJ's wav synth. I will say that pumping bits through usb serial from a max4live patch would work, but  I think it will not have that sound you're looking for. Rough form field math tells me that at a serial rate of 115200, you'll get a rate of 11,520hz mono 8 bit signal. Without any nice filtering or logic I'd imagine it'd sound pretty bad.

You're better off doing what nitro2k01 said and just do a nice bit degrade. Even better would be to use Ableton's sampler (not 'simpler') or Renoise and turn off interpolation, along with a bit degrade that might yield pretty decent results.

PS: The keyword search for these style of USB hubs is called a "usb squid" ... There are tons of them online- at least, it seems so anyway. I got mine on thinkgeek many many years ago when they were not so common. They seem pretty big but once the housing is peeled off they are quite small. I didn't have to modify any of the DMG housing for it to fit.

Oh another note is that I had issues with ground interference from external devices such as cellphones and the like. I used foil tape and made a grounded housing around the imic to get rid of the issue.

lastfuture wrote:
trash80 wrote:

I did this a year or 2 ago. The only thing you'll wanna add is a cap on the power rails for the usb hub so that the dmg on/off doesnt kill the usb bus power. I should read this whole thread before posting. Anyway heres my flickr pics...


http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/trash80/5427448370/

Haha! And even in a red DMG as well, with the iMic. Do you have a writeup of this?
Good info with the cap, what do you suggest? 10nf?
Ah well I knew somebody must have had the same idea before.

No, though the link I gave was from my phone, the rest of the pics have notes on the photos...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/trash80/5427448370/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/trash80/5427585478/

The cap I ended up using was rather large.. 470uf 25v. And it was on the soundcard's USB power input. Turning on the DMG after the USB was plugged in made the soundcard dropout. Added this stopped that issue but also gave me another issue- that of which I fail to recall haha.

Maybe adding a nice 5v regulator for the soundcard may help without causing much issue- I didn't spend too much time on it.

I did this a year or 2 ago. The only thing you'll wanna add is a cap on the power rails for the usb hub so that the dmg on/off doesnt kill the usb bus power. I should read this whole thread before posting. Anyway heres my flickr pics...


http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/trash80/5427448370/

91

(49 replies, posted in Bugs and Requests)

trash80 wrote:

update: it's fixed.
proof: http://chipmusic.org/trash80/music/test

OH WAIT. I deleted it. But music section is back in action. Technical issue: music item search table needed to be "repaired" tongue

92

(49 replies, posted in Bugs and Requests)

update: it's fixed.
proof: http://chipmusic.org/trash80/music/test

93

(49 replies, posted in Bugs and Requests)

Hmm, I'm alittle late on this, so I guess I'll look into it, thanks to everyone who emailed me- oh wait, no one did. tongue THANKS ESC FOR FACEBOOKING ME.

94

(33 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

RyuX wrote:

You said that it should be Serial + / Serial - / GB Clock / Ground.
But how come i have 4,83 on Serial + / Serial - and GB Clock to ground ?!
somethings wrong xD

if I recall its in this order: clock, data output to gb, data input from gb, ground to common, and if you have the wire/pin on the gb connector, 5v to 5v.
so: clock to 37, data out to gb on 36, and data in from gb on 35.

95

(33 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

RyuX wrote:

Thanks Trash for your time,
i tried to replace all the PINC/PORTC with PINF/PORTF
It didnt quite work out.. do i have to change the int pinGB**** etc.... Stuff also if i switch to 37,36,35 ?
I tried to switch the pins but the Arduinoboy went crazy.
But the Gameboy started his sync when i pressed the pushbutton once (and never stopped again)
Something must be completely wrong.
I will build another device with an Arduino Pro Mini and see what this one does...
Maybe any other hints ?
Thanks again

PORTF should of worked I think. I can try testing it here when I go to my shop in the next few days. In the meantime you can try switching the code back and try just moving the wires I suppose.

96

(33 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

RyuX wrote:

PS: by the way.. i will build a standard arduinoboy too, and i wonder which mode is currently activated, there seems to be no list that says "if LED1 is on you are in LSDJ Slave mode" etc. I would really love to write it down so i can look it up.. thx

Updated the ardunoboy page...

arduinoboy page wrote:

Push Button to select the sync/state mode (7 modes available)
1. LSDJ as MIDI Slave Sync with sync effects and midi note transport control. Also Note value to LSDJ song position row offset on Song Start.
2. LSDJ as MIDI Master Sync. Send Midi sync with LSDJ, LSDJ also sends a Midi Note on message that corresponds to the song row number
3. LSDJ PC Keyboard mode. with the first octave controlling M-U-T-E, Cursor control (LSDJ Live mode only), Table selection and table cue.
4. MIDI to Nanoloop sync
5. Full MIDI with mGB (Details below)
6. LSDJ LIVE MAP ... incoming MIDI notes cue LSDJ row numbers, requires custom LSDJ version on the LSDJ site.
7. LSDJ MIDIOUT ... sends MIDI out from LSDJ, requires custom LSDJ version on the LSDJ site.