Thretris wrote:
NeX wrote:

hmm, so you have lots of empty DMG07 shells and link cables, and you are after just the DMG link sockets, and i have a load of link sockets and i am after the shells and link cables, i am sure we can make a deal wink but i wanna know what you are doing with them!

I have like 6 DMG07 shells you can have, just pay for shipping

thats very reasonable smile i assume you don't have the cables, do you wanna take this to PM?

infradead wrote:

so thats what you wanted that supergameboy for.

very cool stuff

yea you should see the mountain of super gameboy cases i have now

291

(39 replies, posted in Trading Post)

hmm, so you have lots of empty DMG07 shells and link cables, and you are after just the DMG link sockets, and i have a load of link sockets and i am after the shells and link cables, i am sure we can make a deal wink but i wanna know what you are doing with them!

the mist toggles wrote:

...the solution to all the "4-way hub waste" or "shift the pins" problems is hiding here smile and a cart reader here

actually i am after the 4 player adapters for the plastic cases as well wink

hi all, does anyone have a usb cart programmer they don't want? or some 4 player adapters?

thanks!

low-gain wrote:

You use a heat gun to swap the chips?

i wish lol, nope i am poor but i plan to invest in a rework station, comes with a soldering iron and a hot air reflow.

i did this with some low temp solder called chipkwic (or something like that) its great at getting stuff off the boards, but when putting the chips back on, if they had any of this stuff still on them it would turn brittle and cause dry solder joints. i had about a 50/60% sucess ratio, got two working fine, one ok but no network, and one just wont boot no matter what i do, i think its a dead chip

yea i have wanted a gold camera since i found out about them but i never actually thought i would find one! then some guy says he has this camera is it rare? so i say yep, i will give you a midi gameboy for it, and all was happy!

nope a biversion will make it even harder to see. the only real thing you could do is use a gameboy colour as their screens are awesome in the sun. i worked out a way to fix it which would be adding a transflective layer to the back of the LCD but the problem is i have no idea where to get it from and it seems to cost a stupid amount of money. i was going to have a go with some mirror tinting film for car windows, but i cant get at it at the moment.

Cementimental wrote:

But does the Super GB still work if you transplant the normal GB cpu into it?! smile

kinda, but you need to boot it with a special rom that nitro2k01 designed, the DMG chip does not transmit the information that the super gameboy needs to boot, so he made a rom that does, then you can pull the rom out and put what ever you like in there.

or (with my 25 way adapted gameboys) you can use the DMG with the super gameboy chip to boot it by inputting the control signals.

arottenbit wrote:

Yay. Awesome. Very clean!
..but really too hard soldering points for me.. tongue

Have you compared the sound output using the headphone adaptor and this mod?
Is it a real prosound (less hiss, hum and stuff) or it's just an (awesome) integrated jack output?

yea i know, i dropped a blob of solder on the chip, it took ages to clean!

i am still waiting for my headphone adapters to arrive in the post so i haven't had a chance to check it yet. i want someone else to give it a try and see what they think. to me it sounds pretty clear, except for a small distortion on high notes, but from my tests, that seems to be the best that the SP can do as it is the same with the internal speaker.

in theory it is a true pro sound, the audio is taken raw before it enters the amp. this is where it picks up noise, when you have power and audio together (like in an amp) you get interference, and because this amp is so small, they had to sacrifice audio quality for size. so the idea is to take the audio before it goes through the amp and put it through a proper amp which will make it a lot cleaner.

but all i have is computer speakers at the moment to test it with. it does sound great, but it has about as much distortion as a gameboy pocket, which is more than the DMG so the DMG is still the best for crystal clear sound.

i suppose in the end its don't to personal preferance and if its acceptable.



COME ON someone give it a go i want feedback! lol

298

(2 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

arottenbit wrote:
NeX wrote:

Wait. Poor gameboy. Where's the other half of the pcb!? lol

thats just my test LCD for checking video data from my gameboys wink so no controls on that one, its like a monitor if you see what i mean.

not only is that a gold gameboy camera, its in a rare glow in the dark pocket! the camera was traded for a midi gameboy, a fair trade i think!

there is no point in a tutorial really, its just a case of unsoldering the gameboy cpu and sticking in the cpu from a super gameboy. its a straight swap, you are best using a hot air rework station to so it so you don't damage the chips.

as for performance, they are basically DMG chips with a different boot strap, its only how they start that is different

thanks! its wedged in there pretty good, i worked out there was space to fit it and drilled all the holes and then forgot how i was actually going to get it in. in the end i had to use a bar of metal to bend the plastic just enough to push it in, now its held there pretty solid without glue or anything like that

i put super gameboy chips in my gameboys to make them boot faster and silently

this video shows how much faster the super gameboy DMGs boot (they are the two on the left)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22rzmnLz3eA

302

(2 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

i have a few projects that i have done but didn't bother to upload them as they were kinda small and pointless so i thought i would throw them all into one post.

first some random glitches, my gameboy camera spat this out while i was messing with it. later on it says "STORE END"

this was supposed to be the scrolling nintendo logo

my girlfriend was playing tetris on my midiboy when jesus turned up

this is grey boy, its a mint grey boy with a green back light, duel factory headphone jacks (one prosound) 25way out and a super gameboy CPU for fast silent boot.


if there is no cartridge it displays a blank screen because of the super gameboy chip

this is black boy 1, it is pitch bent, has a slide pot up the side, an on off switch to go back to normal CPU speed, a red backlight, factory pro sound (like the grey one) a push button for the backlight, some grill lights and a 25way out.

this is black boy 2, this one has midi, biverted screen, 25 way out, super gameboy cpu, 1/4" jack and factory pro sound (same as before).

the mode switch for the midi is also the status LED

here are the two together
the one on the left has a black screen because of the super gameboy CPU and it has a brighter backlight because of my high ampage custom power supply wink

i added a power switch to my reverb box, a nice purple LED and a through socket for the normal headphone jack as well smile

finally, tape boy, its basically a pocket gameboy in a old audio cassette, it has a pro sound, network and a switch to push start so that LSDJ can be put into wait mode and wait for a sync via network

Hi all, i just finished my SP pro sound and i thought i would share it all with you.

when the SP first came out i rejected it straight away, nintendo went and took the hard core gameboy and put an easy to break hinge on it. my experience with laptops taught me that hinges are the first to go.

but i bought one of ebay for the sake of trying out every gameboy nintendo have to offer, and recently i went back to it. now i have fallen in love with it! and like every new loving relationship i straight away started to hack and butcher my SP with dremals and other power tools.

first thing i noticed when opening it was the total lack of space. this gave me mixed feelings, i was glad nintendo were using all the space they could, but it left out all the moding posibilities. but i like a challenge so it was still a positive thing to see.

first of all i had to pick a space for the jack. as with all my mods i don't want to loose any features of the gameboy, so taking out parts is a no go, it must work exactly as it did before but better!

so i picked a spot just below the volume control but there was a stupid little capacitor in the way (goes between true ground and audio ground, it helps with heavy bass by acting as a power buffer)
so that had to be moved out the way.

then i needed to mod the case to fit the jack socket in. i used the jack socket from a pocket gameboy as i had it lying around, and it has a mute switch built in.

then i wedged in the socket, it has a nice fit so that it doesn't need gluing or anything and its still strong.

then a bit of wiring.

this was the real bitch. i found the pro sound points easy enough, they are even labled, but getting the internal speaker to mute was near enough impossible. the problem is that its not like a pro sound on a DMG, where the audio from the CPU is put through a parallel pot, it is run straight to the amp, and then the amp drags everything to ground when you turn the volume down. so it cant just be wired to the back of the pot because it doesn't work that way, and it cant be taken at the CPU because they are still attached to the amp and so the volume pot, and cutting the traces would loose the internal speaker.

the first contacts i wired to gave me pro sound, but it was still wired to the volume control so if i turned down the internal speaker it took the pro sound with it. so i chose some points a bit further back which were much louder but they took too much power (before the cap so no buffer) and it caused distortion on the screen. i might try again and see if i can adjust the power to the screen to make that a bit better,

so i had to use the first contacts again, but i now needed a way to mute the internal speaker, but the internal speaker mutes when the switch is connected to ground, where as in the older gameboys it was disconnecting from ground that caused the internal speaker to mute, and i am using a pocket headphone jack.

so i decided that because the pro sound is before the amp, i don't need the amp when using the pro sound. so i ripped up the ground pins on the amp and connected them to the internal switch in the headphone jack. that way everything acts as normal when there is no jack in there, but when the jack is inserted it breaks the contact from ground which cuts power to the amp, and in tern the internal speaker.

but this does give a weird effect where the pro sound is quiet until you turn the volume down on the SP, then the volume goes up on the pro sound. i think it has something to do with how the amp mutes by dragging everything low.

the final socket.

304

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

low-gain wrote:
NeX wrote:

thanks guys, at the moment it is still a work in progress, i want to convert one of the transistors to a reed relay so i can switch isolated circuits.

but maybe there will be a guide, or i might build them and sell them depending on how well they work in the end.


i'm actually laying out a simple trigger input board that will allow for NPN and PNP triggering. which you can use to trigger most things via a transistor switch. or you can use it in circuit with a relay if need be.

If you want i can send you a few once i get the pcb's made.  just let me know. wink

i would be interested in knowing more about how that works, it sounds interesting smile