Have you checked continuity between the two pin 13's with a meter or only through visual inspection? Something like micro-crack in the trace, or a dry solder joint that has separated from the surface can be hard to detect visually.

If you look at the SID datasheet page 3, you'll see that voice 1 and 2 are in the lower half of the memory map, where A4=0. So it seems like for whatever reason, the second chip is not reacting to writes to the top half of its memory map. This could be because the A4 line is broken on the SID2SID. (If it was broken elsewhere, the same problem would affect both chips equally, even without the SID2SID.) It could also be because the IO1 pin doesn't decode correctly when A4=1 for whatever reason, which could be an issue with the machine itself.

Also check that pin 13 (number 2 counting up from the bottom left corner) has a connection to pin 13 on the other chip/the long legs. You might have a broken trace on the PCB, bad solder joint, missing solder joint etc.

Double check that the CS connection (the wire soldered between the chips) goes to the right place on the C64.

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(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I'd go over these connections with a soldering iron. Turn the power off before doing this, and gently hold the flexible PCB down so it does come lose when applying heat. Make sure there are no bridges before turning the power back on. Otherwise, this might be a problem with the contrast wheel, such as the wiper not making good contact with the potentiometer track.

Oh wait, I misread the message of the seller completely. If there's sound (consistently) then the CPU is getting power. I will go out on a limb and suggest that the first thing you should try to replace are the capacitors on the power board. Then, some of the ones on the LCD board.

Also, a general precaution. Never plug or unplug the LCD ribbon cable while the DMG is powered on. Doing so at any slight angle might kill the function of the  left and B buttons, because those are next to -19 V drive voltage for the LCD. Always worth pointing out.

Could be a power issue. What he describes as lines on the screen sometimes, could be power that dies after a split second. Might for example be related to the power regulator board in the lower left corner, for example bad capacitors. It could be due to dirty/loose contacts on the power switch, corrosion in the DC jack. (It has an internal switch that disconnects the battery when a DC jack is inserted, and that internal switch could be broken.) But hard to tell without further information. Likely to be fixable, but you need to find the problem.

Would help to see a video of the issue once you receive it, as well as pictures of the internals.

New version released.

New in BGB 1.5.4 (2017-07-18) - Fixed regression: pokemon yellow broken in SGB mode. Fixed a number of bugs.

Since it doesn't work well with GBA, the probable answer is no.

Which type of unleaded do you use?

catskull wrote:
darenager wrote:

Also don't use lead free solder, use leaded.

This is not based in reality.

Leaded solder is generally easier to solder properly by hand because it melts at a lower temperature and it's eutectic, ie solidifies at a single temperature rather than having a transition range between its liquid and solid phase. You can get decent lead free solder nowadays, but as a general recommendation it still holds true.

I think that's what the pads on it are. One is ground, one is +5V, and the other three are probably the individual channel outs. That would require some soldering though.

Just a clarification: That's Nanoloop One, not 1.0. The Nanoloop One hardware run the Nanoloop 1.7 software.

You could also try using the original native application for Windows or OSX. It's not linked any more, but the files are still up on the server. It might be more stable than the web version.

http://www.nanoloop.com/midi/nanoloop_171_win.zip
http://www.nanoloop.com/midi/nanoloop_171_osx.zip

Another thing to check for is if the pins of the link cable are pushed into the connector, which in my experience sometimes happens because of the pressure from the MIDI adapter.

Yes, sirette! Feel free to apply.

You're in luck. As the website launches, a limited edition of previous titles will be offered, including the first Heebie GBs and Xmas 16.

cyberic wrote:

Could you please indicate a more precise date for the deadline? thx

The deadline is a bit flexible, but the important thing is that the release needs to be finished well before Halloween, including programming, manufacturing the carts, and allowing for shipping time and any unforeseen events. It's not too late to apply at this point.