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It's common nowadays for DMG LCD retrofit kits (from various manufacturers) to come with a replacement PCB. If nothing else, almost out of necessity. Examples are RIPS, Funny-playing's IPS kit. The last link is a comparison between different kits to help you make an informed decision.

https://www.retromodding.com/products/game-boy-ips-lcd

https://funnyplaying.com/products/dmg-r … 9947761725

https://gameboy.github.io/wiki/backlightmods#dmg

Aye, big up rudebwoy.

Hi. Send me or trash80 a pm. Chipmusic.org doesn't show who's a moderator or not next to the name, but you can confirm who's a moderator by using the view forum moderators link at the bottom of the page.

Still lurking in the shadows...

The long and short of it is that you're tapping into the circuit between the audio output from the CPU chip and the amplifier, so anything you plug into can affect the signal. The internal speaker on the other hand doesn't affect the prosound output.

This is the easiest case to explain. Nothing is affecting the circuit, so the recording is good. You hear hum in the speaker because the speaker always has hum that comes from the power supply line. The amp can be completely turned off when headphones are connected, and in this case the hum goes away because the amp is not driving the speaker.

In this case, the headphones are connected directly to the top (signal) part of the pot. This is the same as if you would have a pre-pot prosound, and then a passive splitter connected to both line-in recording and headphones. The headphones are loading down the line, and the signal becomes distorted. In addition, the headphones work as microphones in this case, so if you repeat the experiment and tap the headphones, this should come through in the recording. Another way to look at this is that the pot, which is maybe 100 kohm and the headphones which is maybe 8 ohms, are connected in parallel, both going to ground. The headphones are much lower impedance and effectively bypasses the pot.

In this case, the headphones are connected directly to the bottom part of the pot (ground). The headphones are effectively separated from the circuit and make no difference to the audio quality.

New in BGB 1.5.9 (2021-04-23)

• Added Xinput support, fixes: gamepad stops working if bgb loses focus in windows 10. Re-run the configure wizard to utilize Xinput.
  Improved sound accuracy. "voice" sound works in perfect dark, donkey kong country, medarot 5 and others. added PCM registers.

• Supports LSDJ v9.2.0.

• Improved HuC3 support (robopon sun, pocket family)

• Improvement to speedrun mode

• Added support for BESS, one can now interchange save states between bgb and other supporting emulators such as Sameboy

• Added support for the homebrew TPP1 mapper

• Many accuracy improvements

• Fixed many bugs

BGB homepage

Yeah, getting a replacement screen would work. The entire front board is replaced, so there's no issue that the old screen is destroyed. I would recommend the RIPS v3 kit. There's also the "Retro Pixel" kit which emulates the look of an old school LCD with grid lines. The downside of the Retro Pixel is that the image is slightly larger and you need to trim the shell slightly to open up the viewport. The last link is a comparison page between different brands of replacement LCDs if you want to compare all of them.

https://www.retromodding.com/products/g … 1790151836

https://www.retromodding.com/products/g … etro-pixel

https://gameboy.github.io/wiki/backlightmods#dmg