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Can you be more specific with what doesn't work means? Are you getting an error when flashing? Does the flasher program hang when you're trying to transfer LSDj in particular? Does it seems to work, but the cartridge starting up and showing the old ROM? Does it show a garbled logo? Does it crash on start? How does it look when it's crashing? "Doesn't work" is the least productive description for any kind of error report.

This thing seems like a polite and clever way of asking for donations while the user doesn't have to browse through the massive archive of GOTO80 tunage.

You have to run the specified commands from the Windows command line (start, run, cmd) not from the Python prompt. You also need to be in the right directory. Maybe I ought to make a GUi version...

That method can only be used for synths that will accept pulses. Any Gameboy will filter away any constant DC level, so if you use it for a gate, the gate will be extremely short if it works at all. And CV control, forget it. You may be able to bypass the coupling capacitors and get raw DC levels out of it, however, then you'll get extra DC offsets which may be undesirable. With this method, you could also do CV (pitch) control but likely in non-harmonic steps (whatever voltages the Gameboy happens to output.. I've been meaning to explore this at some point, but haven't gotten to it. (Hello Infradead.)

To add to that, LSDj may output different noise when stopped and when playing due to different power usage, which affects the CPU. If you want to be serious about your noise removal, place empty chains of sufficient length before the song starts, or create the profile from the silence after the outro.

But I'm not sure I can hear, or see (using a spectrogram) the offending noise in the recording above. Maybe what you're hearing is the overtones form the arpeggio that runs throughout most of the track? A sound editor with a spectral display is a wonderful thing to see what you're doing. You can use Adobe Audition, or Sonogram SG-1 for VST compatible hosts. (The latter is free.) Another trick is to use a narrow band EQ with a positive gain that you sweep to find the offending frequency, then change the gain to negative to remove energy from that frequency band.

Just to check for the obvious, you do understand that you have to replace (sid) with an @ sign, right? And also remove the spaces. It's written in this way to prevent spammers from figuring out the address.

Leftmost one might be a screen magnifier. The next one after that looks for all the world like an FM radio powered by the GBA. The small thing looks like a headphone adapter. And then a 3rd party link cable. The plastic blob in the middle of the cable is a multiplayer connector with a socket. Then there's a car charger, but you likely figured that one out already.