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Switching 5 and 9 (the analog inputs) should be enough. You don't really need to put a switch on 7 and 8 (+5V and ground). Using a 4PDT switch is way overkill.

Now, there are different degrees of cheapness you could aim for. Here are a couple of modified schematics with descriptions. I've marked +5V with red and ground with black for clarity.

Terribly cheap: Two SPST switches. Connect 5 and 9 right through to the other jack, and connect the potentiometers in parallel through individual SPST switches. Now both switches must be in the on position for the respective potentiometer to work, and both switches must be off in order for the second jack to work properly.

Still terribly cheap: Two SPDT switches. Each input is now properly switched between the potentiometer and the second jack, but you still have two switches you need to care about.

Somewhat less cheap: One DPST switch. Same as the first example, but with only one switch to care about.

Recommended: One DPDT switches. Both lines are properly switched with a single stroke.

Yep. The malware is still there. I can see two things. One Java applet, and one thing that probably attacks specific browsers that are vulnerable. I can contact them I guess.

If you look carefully, you'll find a link that leads to another link that leads to an archive filled with strange files with an nsf file extension. Rumour has it that you can somehow get sounds out of these files.

Bud of all Melvins: I'm making my own flasher, which you will hopefully be able to buy at some point. I want to support as many different cartridges as possible, and having physical access to them helps ensure that I'm doing things correctly.

Re: canopy type battery holder. I don't see this as feasible. You are relying on the PCB layout to provide the cathode (negative battery terminal) connection. On the yellow cartridge, the cathode is to the left of the battery. You could perhaps solve this by adding a little bit of wire soldered to the pad which goes under the battery, but I don't think you can guarantee good contact this way. You also need to attach the other  side of the "canopy" for mechanical stability. This is farily easy to do if you scrape off some of the solder mask from the ground plane above the battery, and also disconnect said section of the ground plane from the rest of the ground. (Just a few cuts with a knife.)

However, that seems a bit hackish, and might create problems with data loss because the connectioncomes loose. The way I would probably solve this is with a 180° tabbed battery. Solder the anode (positive battery terminal) to the right place. Bend the other tab and fold it around the top edge of the PCB. Solder a jumper wire between the tab and the ground pad on the board. This would require some thought when bending the tab, but should otherwise be the best solution.
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Though again, thinking about it. that might not work because the top piece of the cartridge will occupy that space momentarily when you slide the cartridge shut.

Anyway, I think I would recommend a tabbed battery which is soldered into place rather than the canopy version, for mechanical stability reasons. This should still extend their life by ~10 years, so it shouldn't be that bad.

Oh and of course, maybe I don't even need to add that I would be interested in playing with these cartridges hands-on for some research. (Such as figuring out how to back them up and flashing new software to them.)

I wonder how much of the noise that is picked up is EMI, and how much is fluctuations in the supply voltage. I wonder if a choke coil/LC filter on the voltage supply to the EL film would make any difference.

I have never touched this type of cartridge before. I do not know exactly what can or can't flash this cartridge. Maybe a bleepbloop/smartboy type flasher can flash it, maybe not. I'm working on a flasher of my own however, and would love to get my hands on this and see if I can add support for it.