Well, it has to fit in the space. CRxxyy denotes the size of the battery, where xx is the diameter and y.y is the height, in those pesky metric units. So for example a cr2032 is 20 mm in diameter and 3.2 mm tall. For the metroid cart, this should just work right away. Of coure, you need to respect the polarity, however.

For the bleepbloop cart things get a little bit trickier, since it was not designed to use a CR2032 battery. You might even need a smaller size, say a CR1632. You'll want to solder one of the sides to a pad for mechanical robustness. For this, you'll probably want to connect the + tab to the bottommost terminal. However, only the top terminal (of the two soldered to the holder) is actually connected electrically to the rest of the circuit on bleepbloops. The other one is just an island pad. So you'd need to make a connection between the two pads using a thin wire. And you'd also need to connect the negative terminal of the battery to any ground point on the board using a jumper wire. For example the on in the microcontroller programming port. You also need to put some form of isolation around or under the battery to stop it form shorting to other things on the board. Heatshrink is not recommended, as the battery is sensitive to heat. Or at least be careful if you use it. PHEW.

Oh, or...
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/battery-h … s/2197954/

arfink: Not that. The bleepbloop carts came with a sleeve which was ust a metal part sitting over the battery. See the image below. The advantage of that compared to a more traditional holder is the low profile. However, this also means the PCB needs to be designed for this holder since you need to solder the holder on both sides, and the battery needs to make contact with the board on the bottom side. You can't just put this type of holder in a game cartridge. Nor would you need to. The batteries typically used in game carts are big enough to last 10+ years. As for replacing the sleeve, failing to find the right component, you might just replace it with CR2032 battery instead, assuming you can make it fit.inside the case.

When did you buy them? I may be interested in certain really old EMS cartridges, made maybe 2006 and earlier.How you can tell: I'm looking for a cartridge with 4 Atmel chips on it, which consequently means no Intel chip. I'd be able to tell from a photo, assuming there isn't a label covering the bottom half of the cartridge case.

772

(99 replies, posted in General Discussion)

infradead wrote:

and closed!

use this http://trash80.com/junkfood/8bitnamegenerator

Lazerbeat wrote:

God dammit! You beat me to the name generator.

Not even close. wink
http://chipmusic.org/forums/post/172600/#p172600
I thought about closing the thread right there and then but then I thought, whatever!
RIP!

773

(3 replies, posted in Atari)

It doesn't really matter, but I'm always wondering why someone disables comments and ratings on all their videos like that.

Not me. Turns out I'm becoming 31. OH WELL!

May I ask, where is the white cart donor shell taken from?

776

(99 replies, posted in General Discussion)

http://trash80.com/junkfood/8bitnamegenerator

777

(41 replies, posted in Commodore Computers)

Switching 5 and 9 (the analog inputs) should be enough. You don't really need to put a switch on 7 and 8 (+5V and ground). Using a 4PDT switch is way overkill.

Now, there are different degrees of cheapness you could aim for. Here are a couple of modified schematics with descriptions. I've marked +5V with red and ground with black for clarity.

Terribly cheap: Two SPST switches. Connect 5 and 9 right through to the other jack, and connect the potentiometers in parallel through individual SPST switches. Now both switches must be in the on position for the respective potentiometer to work, and both switches must be off in order for the second jack to work properly.

Still terribly cheap: Two SPDT switches. Each input is now properly switched between the potentiometer and the second jack, but you still have two switches you need to care about.

Somewhat less cheap: One DPST switch. Same as the first example, but with only one switch to care about.

Recommended: One DPDT switches. Both lines are properly switched with a single stroke.

778

(32 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Downstate wrote:

when i come to cm.org i usually cry about the death of 8bc. and the death of chiptune. and the death of my classes pet turtle.
crymusic.org

And so seapunk ws born!

Yep. The malware is still there. I can see two things. One Java applet, and one thing that probably attacks specific browsers that are vulnerable. I can contact them I guess.

780

(2 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Sounds like a bug. Either poke Johan about it, or try an older/newer version.

781

(9 replies, posted in Releases)

Bit wish wrote:

Ok, why is this a thread? And why is it not closed?

If you look carefully, you'll find a link that leads to another link that leads to an archive filled with strange files with an nsf file extension. Rumour has it that you can somehow get sounds out of these files.

Whoa! Time flies like an arrow! I didn't even notice the age of the thread.

Bud: I'm interested and I'll contact you in a PM.

Bud of all Melvins: I'm making my own flasher, which you will hopefully be able to buy at some point. I want to support as many different cartridges as possible, and having physical access to them helps ensure that I'm doing things correctly.

784

(304 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Maybe you should point out that red and orange are crossed over in a DMG-04 cable, since obviously in on one end goes to out o the other.
Then there's the name "SD", which can be confusing. The name SD comes from GBA link cables. The name is normally not actually used for any kind of serial data in 8-bit GB hardware. The official name for this pin for 8-bit generation hardware is the slightly more cryptic P14. This is the name of the CPU pin it's connected to in a DMG; which is an output related to reading the state of the buttons.