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Actually, the isopropanol+toothbrush method isn't really necessary in this case. It's great for removing flux residues after soldering, because this type of residue doesn't dissolve well in water, so you need both a solvent and some force to get it off.

What I would recommend, unless you live in an area with hard water (ie mineral rich water) is to open up the cartridge, take out the battery, rinse it in tap water, and leave it to dry.
Note that removing the battery erases any save data, so make sure you back it up before doing this.
The crucial part is getting it dry. Something like rice or silica gel bags can be useful here.

Additional information:

There are three different ways electronics can fail due to water.
1) The component itself is sensitive to moisture, typically because it contains something that can react with water. For a GB cartridge, this would be the battery, which contains lithium, and the electrolytic capacitors, which contain an aluminum electrolyte. They will probably both be sealed well enough that a quick rinse will not destroy them, but at least you can remove the battery so you probably should. Other than that, the components do not get damaged by short exposure to water.
2) Shorting. If the device is powered while exposed to water, especially a liquid with a lot of electrolytes like, uhm, beer, two points in the ciruit might be shorted and cause damage. Unless something is actually damaged while the liquid is still on the circuit, this is not fatal.
3) Corrosion. The traces on the circuit board, the solder and the component leads are obviously made out of metal and might corrode ("rust"). This process can be accelerated if any kind of electrolytes are present. Not that simply leaving the PCB to dry is not enough if there's residue left, as will almost certainly be the case with the beer. Moisture will be picked from the air and slowly corrode whatever components are covered in the gunk. You should absolutely clean this up one way or the other.

As for point 3, hard tap water, and even soft tap water will leave some amount of residue. I wouldn't worry about that unless you can see a visible amount of residue when the water dries up. If you can get it or make it, distilled water is even better. Making it could be a fun experiment. If you're still in school, they probably have bottles of distilled water in the chemistry halls.

Good luck.

Hmm. You can't get the wave channel to sound EXACTLY like one of the pulse channels. What about CH1 and CH2 share a MIDI channel, and CH3 has it's own MIDI channel, or alternatively a key split, for use with a keyboard.

The author officially supports running BGB in Wine on x86 processors. Raspberry Pi is using an ARM CPU, however. You could pester the author to port it to RPi, but I have a feeling he won't do it, at the very least not in time for your project.

Cuddle Television: What the hell are you talking about?

The checksum value is just two bytes, or 16 bits big, so it can take on any value between 0 and 65535 (or in hexadecimal 0-FFFF). Since this is far less than the many thousands of bits that a typical ROM contains, there must be many (out of all completely random combinations) of ROM contents that give the same checksum.

The checksum is a value that is calculated from all the bytes in the ROM to ensure that the ROM has not been corrupted. If there are any changes in the ROM, the checksum changes (unless you're extremely unlucky) and a verification process can detect this. Nintendo used this back in the day when people submitted Gameboy games on floppy disks to make sure the ROMs were not corrupted. If you care about this value being correct, you can use the RGBFix tool from the RGBDS assembler package.

You can also do this in BGB. Press esc to bring up the debugger window. Select file, fix checksums then file, save as and select where you want to save the file.

Moved this thread. The tutorials, mods & how-to forum is not for asking questions.