If the LED is wired in backwards, the panel won't light up. Clearly not the problem here. The problem is the soldering of the inverter chip. Something in that area is either shorted or not connected.

130

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Or, the NL MIDI adapter. Maybe not the cheapest option, but probably the smallest and simplest. But again, no MIDI USB host.

http://nanoloop.de/midi/index.html

I'm not familiar with NL2, but this probably has to do with the timer resolution. There's probably no timer value that fits naturaliy with 110. You will probably find more gaps at higher BPMs.

BennVenn wrote:

You can drop in a $4 boost converter and won't have to worry about battery quality/charge.

Are you sure? The GBP (like all GBs) has a switching voltage converter built-in. If the voltage cut-off of Nintendo's converter is set too high, it may stop batteries from working before they're fully discharged, and then a boost converter would help. But I thought the problem with the EMS cart was that it's using excessive power, so that it both drains the battery faster, and is using more power than a typical AAA battery can deliver when partially discharged due to ESR. In that case, no boost converter in the world would help.

curtinparloe wrote:

In other news, I had a spare Li-ion 3.7V, 810mAh/2.997Wh which I jumpered up to the Pocket's terminals and it worked better than I expected. Is there a reason I can't/shouldn't put a single Li-ion AAA size cell with a dummy cell in the back?

That should work, better than using AAA batteries in fact. One thing to keep in mind: If it doesn't have protection circuitry built-in, you may want to be careful not to over-discharge it, or accidentally short it.

133

(8 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

There's a new player in town. You may want to check out re-303, with the tagline, it's not a clone, it's a replica.

134

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Both of you are probably wrong. If it was a USB cable problem, the cart wouldn't detect at all in the computer. It wouldn't randomly give glitched Nintendo graphics.

Probably, the cartridge contacts are dirty, or misaligned. Open up the cart and clean the edge connector with isopropyl alcohol.

135

(14 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Link?

I doubt the innards are fake, unless they are obviously using something that looks like a new LCD. Rather, I would guess that they are repro cases with refurbished/reused electronics.

Should work now.

137

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Zetetica wrote:

Yeah this is an easy solution but kind of annoying fix, because you have to use a hot soldering iron and reconnect the bottom ribbon cable wires by running the iron across and getting it hot enough that it doesn't actually melt the ribbon cable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7D4wZ6a1ZA

Different problem.

138

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Try checking the solder connections between the board and the LCD ribbon cable that is under the screen. Likely, something has come loose which makes it not drive the horizontal lines at all.

Saskrotch wrote:

I thought this said "preserve his honor" and I was like have you MET the guy?

I have now restored my honor by removing that typo. (The typo wasn't "honor" but repeating the word "horror" in the sentence.)

Glomag, in case you didn't know, is one of the early players in the LSDj scene. But he's a man with many talents. He was also horror movie music composer in the '80s. Now he's looking to preserve those movie scores before they rot away in the dark. That's what this kickstarter campaign is for. And some of the rewards are chiptune related. Go check it out!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cb … film-compo

What I meant was that while the mod was incorrectly installed, this problem existed and could have damaged the CPU or inverter (but probably didn't). Although thinking about it, I forgot this mod board has you lift the pin, so the inverter output would never have been connected to the CPU output unless there's an excessive blob of solder that touches the pad. Which also means that you shouldn't really have to cut the traces at all if you're careful when installing the board.

142

(10 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Hnclone01 has been posting all over the internet about how he "found" this cool song. So I mod-abused this thread a little bit, hehe.

catskull wrote:

The yellow line is the trace coming off the via to the CPU pin. So the header pin I soldered the chip to wasn't contacting the CPU pin at all.

Yes. And also, if you don't also cut below the via, you're connecting an output to an output! The deadly sin. (At least potentially deadly to the chip outputs although it probably didn't cause permanent damage in this case.)

catskull wrote:

As a side note, what the heck is the deal with this HHL bivert board needing the wire for ground? There's a ground on the LCD board right on the end with a huge blob you could easily bridge. What's the deal with that? Kind of makes me want to make my own bivert board with only a 2 gate chip. I really like the design of the HHL board otherwise.

Or, you could use a smaller inverter chip and use one of the grounds in the 6 pin array. Hmm!

144

(14 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Not sure that will work as expected for anything below 5 V at least. I think that circuit will make the emitter follow slightly below the base voltage up to a base voltage of 5 V. Plus, it has the disadvantage of needing to break out +5V from the link port.