No, probably not normal. Can you do what I suggested above with regard to that? Please check during the startup sequence that it cycles through every LED and that none are missing from the sequence. Then also press the mode button and see if that does anything.

Correct, that's the 5V which is normally unconnected if you're using external power.

Also the picture of the link connector can be kind of confusing it's showing the link connector as seen on the Gameboy, which would mean that the connector would be mirrored if you looked at the plug. BUT that image is incorrect and you have to pretend that you're looking at the actual plug on the cable instead.

Try this. Just to confirm, this assumes in both cases looking at the connector from the front.

The changes from the pictured wiring, in words:
On the link connector:
* Move the green pin back on the connector back to where it was originally.
* Move the red pin to where you just removed the green pin from.

On the DIN5 connector:
* Move the blue wire to the outermost pin, opposite side of where the red one is.
* Move the green wire to where you just moved the blue wire from.

Assuming I didn't mess up, that should work.

Can you tell me exactly which pin on the plug you swapped from and to where? And also where on the board you connected that wire?

As for the status LEDs. They should do a blink sequence for testing on startup, then light up only one LED (when idle) indicating the mode. Carefully check if any of the LEDs never light up during the startup sequence. It's possible you connected one LED reverse or otherwise incorrectly and that that LED happens to be the active mode. You should also be able to get around this by trying to press the button to switch modes and see if any LED lights up. Something else could be wrong but start with that.

That mod is only necessarily if you want to power the Arduinoboy through the link cable instead of using external power. Choose one or the other. Also, you need a ground connection over the link cable. If you used the ground pin for the pin swap, you need to connect ground through the shielding of the cable. If you used the data out pin, this is not a problem but then of course you're losing the MIDI out capability.

As it is now, you're backfeeding power into the Arduinoboy through the data pins of the link port, which is what is making the backlight light up dimly. This would happen regardless of the pin swap, though.

Just to clarify, I didn't make Pushpin I just modded it.

119

(10 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Moved. For future reference, if this happens, using the report function on the post in question is the most efficient way to contact the mods/admins about stuff like this.

Little FM 0.5.2 released. Fixes a bug where some files would incorrectly fail to load with the message “no blockjump”.

Get it here: http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/gameboy-re … -for-lsdj/

121

(234 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

With that said, I'm not sure Pushpin is the GB MIDI panacea. mGB is probably over all a better solution. But now you have the choice. smile

122

(234 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Boom! Here's a version of Pushpin that works with SPI mode. (Arduinoboy/nanolooop MIDI).

http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2016/11/14 … loop-midi/

I used wc6w-x9bz.

124

(21 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

It's up again. Seems like all of Angelfire was down for a while.

http://www.angelfire.com/nc/ugetab/

125

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

oliver wrote:

Four directional circle buttons? From the inventor of the d-pad?

Maybe they consulted Apple.

The author contacted both me and nordloef and sent a new version, which is available for download in my file archive:

http://gbdev.gg8.se/files/musictools/Headache%20Boy/

Stupid question, but are you sure you are in the right mode on the Arduinoboy? You should be in LSDj master mode, as indicated on the product page. (Edit: or slave? I can't remember if master in the mode name refers to LSDj or ABoy being master.) And in case that the legend is somehow mislabeled, have you tried different modes to see if any other mode works correctly?

http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/ar … lectronics

While not a commercial product, this thing made by a certain fur ball from France may interest you.

http://furrtek.free.fr/?a=gbcc