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(4 replies, posted in Atari)

emailed

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(4 replies, posted in Atari)

Hi guys,

I ordered 20 pcbs from seeedstudio, very reasonable price for low numbers of boards.  I had seen other peoples designs but the gerbers were not compatible with the fab house so I end up designing my own in eagle.  I provide the eagle .sch and .brd files, as well as the gerbers below.  All boards were 100% etested and I've just built one using little-scales a26f rom and it works perfectly.  The boards are high quality 1.6mm thick with hasl plating, These are the right thickness for the 2600 cart slot.

If you would like to buy one please pm me with quantity, country and paypal email address and I will send you a paypal invoice.  Bargain price of £2 per board plus shipping.  Each board weighs six grams and I will add some cardboard either side for a little protection.  To give you a rough idea on shipping cost it would cost £1.50 to ship 1 board to the US with a delivery aim of 5 days.

You would need to add a 74ls04, eprom socket, eprom and capacitor yourself.  I do have a few eproms lying around, so if you don't have an eprom programmer let me know and I will see if I can help you out

eagle board cart.brd
eagle schematic cart.sch
gerbers zip file

EDIT: wrong link for the gerber files, it has now been updated.  If you upload this to seeed you will need to give it a unique filename

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

Hi seb, if I just add an opto to d7 will midi work or do I need to adjust the code in any way?

It did take quite a while for the last batch to be sent out, then for some people 2 months of shipping on top. Enough people asked if they could pay more for faster shipping that he made it an option for the latest batch, but at that point none had been built from that batch. A few weeks ago (easter weekend i think) he showed boards and parts had arrived and he was starting to build that weekend, but this is one guy building and testing by hand in his spare time. Im sure he will be in touch soon with an update

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

Not that I'm being impatient, I've just got a bit of spare time at the moment so I want to build some projects I've been looking forward to doing.  Just wondering if i build it as the design is now, will I have problems if/when you switch to one controller port?

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

No need to be sorry, i was just answering as i know seb is constantly busy. In theory yes the teensy has digital to analog converters built in so you can do it, but right now you would have to code it yourself, its not going to be as easy as just soldering a part in. Seb has provided the full code so if you wanted to you could add it yourself. But you do need to learn to walk before you can run. Get a teensy or arduino, some basic components like leds and pots and work your way through some tutorials.

Arduino has been around longer, and you can run arduino code on a teensy-you just need to be aware of the different pin layout. There are quite a few teensy projects but TBH youre more likely to find examples with arduino, its probably the most popular microcontroller out there. Their website is full of tutorials and they have a friendly active user forum. Im not saying buy an arduino instead of a teensy, im saying look for someone who has made for example an arduino sampler, study the code and apply it to your own project.

Most people starting out with microcontrollers will take someone elses examples and just modify the code/circuit to see what happens. It may seem a little daunting at first, but honestly it is alot easier than it seems and is really rewarding.

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

Now im not little scale, so i may stand corrected. But the key is in the letters DAC-or digital to analog converter. So in order to hear the sounds through the atari the signal must be digital first. The current public a26f stores a number of digital samples within the teensys code. A future version is said to allow custom samples, but this will still require some form of digital encoding first. I imagine this will be using a max4live patch.

In its current state, no you cannot add an audio input. I doubt you will be able to in the future either, as this will require something to encode analog signals into digital, for it then to be converted back to analog within the atari.

Looks awesome. I cant find my megadrive scart/phono cable so ive just added an audio out jack to my megadrive 2. Its not a prosound mod (search for crystal clear audio mod megadrive) but its good enough. Theres space to put an 1/8 inch jack at the back left or right, although the right might need some extra plastic removed. I opted for mono due to lack of spare interface channels.

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/mega-drive-2-av-port-pinout/

Remove all screws to get the plastic casing then metal ground shield off, then the screws either side of the cartridge port in order to lift the pcb out of the case. At the underside of the av port solder a wire to one of the 4 larger tabs, this is your ground cable. Then either solder one cable to pin 6 for mono or a cable each to 8 and 9 for stereo (see link). The cables can be threaded through the pcb mount holes then the pcb and ground shield screwed back on. Mount your jack to the case, careful to place it so the contacts wont be touching the ground shield-i drilled mine in the top half of the case. Solder the wires to the jack(s) and close the case

that looks great!

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

I know you are a busy man doing all this work in your spare time, so no pressure.  But the previous post about using a single port and possibly the same pcb as genmdm has stopped me from building my own - for now.  I have a flash cart and prosounded 2600jr opened up and waiting for the next rev of modifications

see:
http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/external_power.html and http://pinouts.ru/Game/genesiscontroller_pinout.shtml

pin 5 on gen controller = 5v.

Just to save anyone possibly blowing up any components on their teensy - you can supply 5v to the teensy EITHER via usb or externally, NOT BOTH!!!  with rev1 GenMDM boards if you are sure you will not forget this, you can solder a wire from the controller port to the header pin on the board.  But it is better practice to cut the trace between usb +v and external +v - see the above site, its easy.

Great news. Out of interest what have you done about power supply with the din connection, are you getting 5v from the sega? As someone else pointed out earlier, ditching the usb supply has really reduced noise for me

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

On another tangent, could i suggest you modify the blog post to inform people you dont need to butcher 2 controllers, as the thought of good controllers being damged makes me wince. You can buy female db9 to female db9 (rs232 serial) cables for £1.50 on ebay that you could cut in half. I think you would need to do the pin labelling for each side seperately as some pins will swap within the cable.

Ive opened my 2600 jr up and there is plenty of space inside for extra pcbs once you remove the metal shielding under the external plastic case-ive had no problems leaving this off permanently. There is also plenty of space for adding the extra jacks youll want for prosound and midi. I plan on wiring directly to the motherboard instead of splicing controllers and adding a power toggle for the teensy/arduino so i can power it off and use normal controllers for gaming still.

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

Presumably its just to ensure the processors got a stable supply, which would probably cope without. Not much point me removing it if im putting an arduino in as that needs 5v regulated anyway

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

sadly no.  a 6x AA battery pack would work though.  78xx regulators require approx 2 more volts at the input than their output voltage to function properly.  They usually work for a while with fresh alkaline AAs, but rechargeables have a surprisingly wide voltage fluctuation, you probably wont get 7+ volts for very long.  But I have rechargeable 9v batteries anyway, and it would be just as easy to hook up an external battery pack with a suitable jack on it..  It was more for the aesthetic as I like the idea of a portable 2600 synth with all the hardware contained in the case.

As for the arduino porting I'm not super keen I can wait.  I just prefer to program a chip on a dev board and place it with a resonator and regulated supply, it seems a bit of a waste to use up a new dev board for every project.  ATMEL's generous free samples might have something to do with it too ;-)

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(59 replies, posted in Atari)

This is all great stuff!  I had started to port this to arduino, but it involved removing the guitar sample to make enough space for the code.  At first not a big deal, but with you adding extra features so quickly I'm not going to bother any more as I dont want to have to lose features because the arduino has limited code space.  So I bit the bullet and bought 5 teensy 2 boards, so I can build this asap and not have to wait the next time you have an awesome project I want to build.

I'm assuming this works with all versions of the 2600?  The 2600 jr is smaller and generally cheaper, and space is getting to be a real issue here.  Although nothing looks better than an original 'woody' the jr would be super portable.   I'm planning on modding mine so the midi interface is in the case, and I havent tried it yet but is should be possible to make the atari battery powered.  There is a 7805 regulator in there so you should be able to hook up a 9v battery holder in the case.