Apeshit wrote:
bit 9 wrote:

How on earth do you make oblong through-holes? I'm doing unspeakable things with layers to get the battery contact points, DC jack, switch, and link port to look right. Part of my reluctance of releasing the file is that whole 'there has to be a better way to do this' thought.

I think the commonly accepted way is with the "mill" layer and two drill holes on either side of the slot. I've used the dimension layer in the past when I didn't need the slots plated.

I've actually always used the dimension layer and then just one pad in the center for schematic reasons. They have always ended up being plated. Probably because of the actual pad placed in the middle right?

bit 9 wrote:

thursdaycustoms wrote:

I'm a complete Eagle CAD addict!

Ok, so let me pick your brain for a moment. How on earth do you make oblong through-holes? I'm doing unspeakable things with layers to get the battery contact points, DC jack, switch, and link port to look right. Part of my reluctance of releasing the file is that whole 'there has to be a better way to do this' thought.

Oblong holes are very annoying when you intend the rest of the pads to be round.
Here's how I do it. I'm no expert, just an addict so there could be a better way. This is just the method I've come up with:
-Drop a through hole pad.
-Draw a line using the "Pads" layer that is just a little bit wider than your original pad or however wide you want it to be.
-Use the "Dimension" layer to draw your oblong hole at zero width(make sure it's slightly wider than the drill of the pad or it will be really wonky).
-Then use "tStop" and "bStop" layers to expose the copper.
-You may need to use "tRestrict" and "bRestrict" since it recognized the "Dimension" line as an edge of the PCB.
-If you had to use the "restrict layers then you will have draw lines to the pads for the thermal. If they don't connect on the trace you want then just use the Name command to add it to the line.

Here is what my oblong pad looks like after all that hard work:

Here are the individual layers/parts not including the lines:

And here's how they turned out in some of my kits:


I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions on this.

If anyone knows of an easier way I would be glad to hear it! But if not I do like the degree of control I get here for every individual layer. You could also make your own part.. But I always found that to be more annoying than this method.

Yep. Just sitting on my couch designing an MGB/DMG link cable adapter PCB. Might never even be product but it's fun to make!

I would be very interested in the files if you do decide to make them public. This would be so much fun to play around with. I'm a complete Eagle CAD addict!

LEGENDAIRYYYYY.

I had been meaning to strip and scan the CPU-PCB like that as well. Thanks!

118

(44 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Thanks!

119

(44 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

D3LL wrote:
Limitbreak wrote:

I figured I'd bump this because knowledge is power. I've purchased three of these inexpensive USB to MIDI cables from this guy and have had nothing but great results:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230838298743?ss … 1497.l2649

I've been able to send clock signals, send MIDI to various pieces of gear and send Sysex data. Just thought I'd help if anyone else is doubting cheap cables.

Thanks for the link, I may buy one smile

Would you be willing to open it up and take one good picture? I just want to be sure it has all the components.

120

(13 replies, posted in Tutorials, Mods & How-To's)

CYBERP_NK wrote:

Will it be within the next few weeks you think? I know you dudes are super busy but that would be dynamite if that got on your to do list! ^-^

Sorry. I won't have time anytime soon.

Here's a little walk through for you assuming you bought the jacks we have available at thursdaycustoms.com

It's the same general concept of the 1/8" prosound as far as wiring goes.
You will want to remove the regulator board from the bottom left of the Game Boy.
Use about 4" long wires to rewire it and place it in the right side.
You may need to remove some plastic from the button post the for it to fit.
Drill an 11/32" hole if you want to screw the jack in(this can be very tight and difficult). Drill a 1/2" hole if you just want to hot glue it in place.
Make sure you wire up the jack before gluing it in place. This will make it much easier!
Wire it up and test it out!

121

(12 replies, posted in Releases)

animalstyle wrote:

Also for a select few (please only poor chip musicians) I can reduce the cost if you ship me an NROM game.  Hit me up at [email protected]

Legit is legit.

122

(463 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Been annoying all the the instagram updates. This is so awesome.

I don't think $100 is very much for such an awesome NES "clone". Seems like it would really be worth it for what it offers.

123

(304 replies, posted in Trading Post)

SuperBustySamuraiMonkey wrote:

Does it work with usb-midi controllers? hows the latency on that? Im really dying to play "keyboard dmg" live

I have not personally tried it with USB controllers/keyboards but I have to imagine it will work. I'll get back to you on this ASAP.
Does your controller have an external power source or is it powered via USB?

124

(13 replies, posted in Tutorials, Mods & How-To's)

Sorry about that! We haven't yet made full guides on 1/4" or RCA prosound mods. Just the 1/8" so far.

125

(304 replies, posted in Trading Post)

11 of 50 USB-Boys are sold. That's just the first 2 days of them being available. If you want one I highly recommend you move quickly!

126

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

The LCD amp is blown. You can can try the capacitors but it's probably the driver.

127

(304 replies, posted in Trading Post)

ashimoke wrote:

Nice! Does it also output standard midi on teensy uart? Or: would it be hard to tweak the code for it?

I believe you would have to build your own for that. The guys at noizeinabox could probably answer this better.

128

(304 replies, posted in Trading Post)

You can also use USB keyboards and such.