2,721

(9 replies, posted in General Discussion)

hey!  pretty cool man big_smile

this is super great and concise

thank you big_smile

2,723

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

ok,

this is completely irrelevant to the backlight

but,

the sega flashcarts are back in stock:

http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/se … ith-sd-mmc

good hunting...

xero wrote:
Reteris wrote:

I would rather eat the toy than their food

if the screen is still glued down or whatnot...

its probably the adhesive ring around the screen.

if you wanted, you can take off the plastic screen cover, and push it out that way.  rather than try to pry it off the adhesive.

remember....  only as much heat as needed smile

confidence!

egr wrote:

It's so tempting to just give that ribbon connection a quick press with my wife's flat hair iron...

put something that won't melt behind it and go for it!!!

thats essentially how they did it in the manufacturing process.  a flat iron type of machine...  but more scientific and precise than your wife's big_smile  and not a flat iron.  but, certainly an even distribution of heat...  maybe a reflow oven, maybe a press...  doesn't matter really.

heat is what you want (but controlled).

same deal with fixing DMG LCD screens...  acetate ribbon cables so you can apply heat, and in that case the connection is made to the glass substrate (well, not the glass exactly).  rather than to another acetate cable.

hope it works!  it should just fine...

not too much pressure so you don't squeeze the solder out or create solder bridges and shorts...  but, heat should make it reflow and that should fix the cable...

2,727

(62 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

NeX wrote:

guys seriously, if you want something that does all that then just buy an iPhone!

just don't expect to be able to use it as a phone with good reception with at&t unless you live in a major metropolitan area.

they make great ipod touches though...

2,728

(62 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

yeah, a much different production method then, and a nicer product, but a not-so-great pricetag...

its cool !!! you've still got a set still...  those seem like ancient history to me now.  feels like tons happened since then...

crazy...

2,729

(62 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

arfink wrote:

I think his modding technique is pretty dang good.

the utilization of space is very well thought out for sure.  you've got a good mind for 3D placement NeX smile

i added some photos to our flickr.

installation pics

and, here is the method of changing the colors, as i know some of you want a pic...

this is where i installed the PCB, at least.  put it someplace else if you wish...  the wire should be plenty long enough.


this is how you control the brightnesses of the three colors!

Gum->drop wrote:

I have witnessed things being soldered plenty of times so I reckon I can do it no trouble, it doesn't look too difficult altho I have never done it myself previously.. That part doesn't intimidate me.

LOL @ hams for fists! =]

Do I just follow a regular tutorial for backlighting supplementing this kit into the process or is there anything involved which is majorly different?

Many thanks for the help & advice being offered here folks, very much appreciated!

sorry, overlooked your questions earlier...

the basic process is the same, yes.

the MAIN difference in installation is that you don't need to clip off any of the white plastic to the left side.  our backlight shines from the bottom upwards, rather than from the left side like backlights out there.

so, don't cut that plastic.  there is a TINY piece to cut, but its just two small snips.

the tutorial will be out before the kits arrive to everyone that has pre-ordered.

and, when the parts arrive, pre-ordering is done and real ordering happens.  the exact same thing...

i hope that helps smile

i think if you are familiar with the basic installation method of backlights in general, this will be as easier, if not more so.

the stock polarization film comes out, put in the backlight (wires coming out the bottom), put in the extra diffusion film, put in the polarization film, that's it fr the backlight part.  the rest is mounting the PCB, which is just drilling 5 small holes.

or, if you just want to set it and forget it, just do that and hide the PCB inside the DMG, don't drill any holes.

i'll get some pics up soon, and documentation/tuts will follow shortly.

2,732

(7 replies, posted in Trading Post)

we didn't get ours from there.

well, we tried at first, as there is no shipping and the price isn't bad at all...

we ordered 10 to see how they were, and got ONE in the mail.

this happens about every package i've ever gotten from them.  for us, its better to source the same stuff elsewhere...  some place that will actually ship what we order.

which, for us, means bulk (which dealextreme isn't great for at all, because they can't count it seems like)

china is good sometimes, and a pain in the ass in other ways...  i don't mean to be harsh, but time after time i've dealt with the same mess from them...  and just stopped eventually...

dealextreme will allow you to get returns/replacements/etc, but its a horrible process.  you have to take pics of everything (save ALL your packaging) and they resist like crazy.

if they admit a mistake, they send you the parts by boat, irregardless what your original shipping was supposed to be.

but, its worth a shot!  you only have $4.01 to loose...

2,733

(62 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

low-gain wrote:

just developed a new mod guys.
tutorial cumming soon. wink

i'll PM you my order info asap

2,734

(20 replies, posted in Tutorials, Mods & How-To's)

no, i haven't given up at all.

that PCB is done, but just can't invest in it just yet...  the prototype works great though. 

they'll come when i can.

yeah, EL is awesomely consistantly lit.  absolutely no hot spots.  and the color is generally brighter for less of a current draw (more bang for your buck).

there are really advantages and disadvantages over both, mainly aesthetics.  LED allows for cooler tricks with the color (like, the RGBva), but, EL is iltimately more consistantly colored.

the drawback to EL is that it runs off AC instead of DC (hence the PCB needed).  however, provided you find an inverter to use, or design your own (like we did), then that problem is solved...

yeah, the pcb is super super tiny and can mount in many places.

actually, you don't even have to mount it IF you only want a custom color.  then set it, tuck it in, and close the gameboy back up.

but, the answer your question...

there are 5 tiny holes to drill (i'll be uploading more pics and a drill guide today).

the outer two holes are screw holes for mounting.  the 3 inner ones are individual color adjustments.

they are all in a row, and the holes are the same size.  easy to drill...

not switches, but trim pots.

actually, they are where a bit of the cost lies.

because the gameboys are generally dirty (..... filthy)....i switched to a sealed pot that won't let the dirt get in..  not only that, but Bourns, which make great stuff always (but, pricey). big_smile

i'll get more pics up when i can...  i need to catch up on my other job today though since monday is tomorrow, then i'll get back to this...

also, the DMG buttons have a ribbed texture on the four tips of the d-pad, and the NES d-pad has arrows.

they fit in the exact same way, and are the exact same size, so its really whatever you want smile

and, ditto on what celsius said about the inversion stuff.