273 Reply by kitsch

(22 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

you could just follow the traces back to a solder point, or all the way back to the diode arrays if you needed

check the schematic for the start button's two points, would be as easy as hooking up the switch of your choice at this point.  a tact/pushbutton, you could even use the silicone buttons themselves and fashion a button from something (or etch your own with the stuff from ratshack), or just take a broken front PCB and dremel off the start/select part so you could just recycle that part,

you could even use one of the 'common ground' pcbs, and dremel it however you needed.  if its just for the one button, you've got two contact points right there.  bam

would be much easier than fashioning a new part

edit -- i like your crossfader with two tact switch idea

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274 Reply by kitsch

(22 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

kineticturtle wrote:

OH where would we ever find a MASTER CLOCK DEVICE FOR GAMEBOYS?

hint: http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/quint wink

nonono, its not for the sync/clock.  its for the crystal oscillator.  totally won't work for this

edit -- updated the description, realized it was very confusing

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275 Reply by kitsch

(22 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

just noticed herr_prof already said this...

nevermind!  it might be easier with a devoted master device though

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276 Reply by kitsch

(22 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

what about a third, external master device?  sort of like a word clock in video systems.  just one thing to keep the whole lot in time, as the devoted master, and everything else is a slave.

(unless i've missed your point perhaps)

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277 Reply by kitsch

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

i'd very much make sure to not miss the deadline for filing a dispute

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278 Reply by kitsch

(40 replies, posted in Past Events)

GREAT NEWS!

MaxDolensky will be at the Kitsch-Bent booth helping out on both days of this event, we'll have demos running and the booth (atm) is planned to be sort of a crash spot with stuff to fool around with, come by and say hello!

this event is only during the day (music is at night, lectures during the day), and we're right in the middle of it all so really hope to see some familiar faces and meet new people

and best news yet, we've got permission to actually make noise at the booth!  within limits (courtesy to other booths), but this at least opens up the chance of anyone who drops by being able to plug in.  before the permission, the booth was in 100% headphone mode hmm  i'll see how much i can wiggle this for some people being able to play a spot (there is a stage and music/DJ between on-stage demos, from my understanding), but at least there is a safe haven for chip at the KB booth where other people can hear it now, outside of fooling with the demo stations themselves wink

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279 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

oh ishhhh

thanks!

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280 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

bit 9 wrote:
thursdaycustoms wrote:

I'm a complete Eagle CAD addict!

Ok, so let me pick your brain for a moment. How on earth do you make oblong through-holes? I'm doing unspeakable things with layers to get the battery contact points, DC jack, switch, and link port to look right. Part of my reluctance of releasing the file is that whole 'there has to be a better way to do this' thought.

check this out, we discussed this very thing farther down in this thread wink

http://chipmusic.org/forums/post/202935/#p202935

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281 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

oh, cool.  let us know!

haven't had emails about my last order replied to either

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282 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

from the last part of that manual snippet:

"Please inform your board manufacturer that they have to take care on the
milling data drawn in this layer. Also tell them whether they should be
plated-through or not."

wink

you'll want it plated-through

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283 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

thursdaycustoms wrote:

Try uploading your board to oshpark.com. It will generate an image of what your board should look like. It shows you all the main layers so you will see how either layer will affect the outcome.

i've had three orders now where the drill sizes in my file and the board they sent did not match.  i think they are limiting the drill sizes down to a small set to save on manufacturing costs (drill bit changes increase tooling costs)

so, big heads up on that!  its made my last order from them essentially unusable.  the file viewer on their site is right, but they're opting to drill with alternative sizes.

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284 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

changed the link.  hyperlinks are broken here it seems.  will bring it up with staff

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285 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

hmmm, URL redirects from this site have changed and are broken now.

i'll fix the link!

(sorry, in a slight rush)...  but, to answer you quickly, i didn't read over justin's close enough to tell you how it differs, but i copied my post directly from the eagle manual, so if I were a betting man I'd say go with what the manual says. 

ok, fixing link, my bad

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286 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

there probably is!

cadsoft maintains a big library database here: 

URL linking is temp broken on this site it seems

http://www.cadsoftusa.com/downloads/libraries?language=en

some have licensing txt files and stuff with the download, so pay attention to that too if anyone is planning on commercially applied PCBs or whatever...

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287 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

from the EAGLE Manual wink

"
8.11 Components with Oblong Holes

If the board manufacturer have to mill oblong holes, you have to draw the
milling contour of oblong holes in a separate layer. Usually this is layer 46, Milling.

The milling contour for components that need oblong holes can be drawn
with WIRE (and possibly ARC) with a very fine wire width near or even 0 in the Package Editor. Take a pad that has a drill diameter which lies inside the milling contour, or SMDs, for example in Top and Bottom layer, as basis for the oblong hole.

In case of a multilayer board you should draw a WIRE in the used inner
layers at the position of the oblong holes so that it covers the milling contour and leaves a kind of restring around the opening.

Please inform your board manufacturer that they have to take care on the
milling data drawn in this layer. Also tell them whether they should be
plated-through or not.
"

hope that helps!  its not too bad. 

you all may also want to create a custom library called "oblong holes" if you have a need of them individually (rather than as a part's footprint).  its a time saver

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288 Reply by kitsch

(72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

thursdaycustoms wrote:

I'm a complete Eagle CAD addict!

^ he really is, no joke

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