especially with anything that an average jo0e can afford.
The printer we had at Uni would also take several hours per part, even for a 4 square inch part.
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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Jazzmarazz
especially with anything that an average jo0e can afford.
The printer we had at Uni would also take several hours per part, even for a 4 square inch part.
Gorgeous, though I can't see where I would use it. Maybe I could build a MAME cab around it, but a flexATX would be too weak for my everyday use.
Could it be your playback? Have you listened on other speakers/headphones?
onapokoya wrote:Wouldn't pulling the pin be just as "irreversible" as cutting the trace? I'd think just cutting the trace would be easier 'cause if you want to revert it back to stock then you just jump a bit of solder across the cut trace.
I believe it wouldn't since you can either put it back to the hole and add a bit of solder or use a small wire to connect the pin. What I meant by pulling it out is that you just kind of take out the leg from the hole you don't cut it or anything.
Frankly I do not understand how would you solder back a PCB trace. Indeed you could solder two ends of the cut trace with a wire but what do you mean by jumping a bit of solder? You mean one should scrub the PCB to expose the copper and then solder two parts of the cut trace? Because I don't see where the solder sticks to on this case....
bitjacker wrote:dont wreck a nes. have a professional do it!
I won't I'm actually saving non-working consoles (and modding some of them) not wrecking
The reason I'm asking is that no tutorial actually explains why should you *cut* the trace, so I was hoping that someone familiar with the schematic would give me quick answer. I think I'll look into the schematic myself and try to figure can I avoid cutting traces or not (I just don't like cutting anything on PCB). I'll keep you updated
- Yes, to jumper the traces you would have to scrape the green solder mask off of the copper. The reason you have to cut the trace is so that the original clock signal does not enter that pin. Your idea to pull the leg out and solder to your own clock is a fine idea too, but I would suggest pulling the whole chip out and adding a DIL socket.
I never heard the noise.
Sounds like pulse width or duty cycle. The square wave channels should have a duty cycle option to switch between the few selectable duties.
Go to Menards and buy a dremel kit for $9.99.
IU can't find the one I use anymore, but here is a similar one:
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardw
-10099.htm
Cyt yourself a rectangle, and then shape it with one of the filing tools. You do not need a perfect trapezoid though, if you cover the hole with the metal plate on your DB-25.
I guess this joke is no longer funny?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3rONgKIm8I
Thats red.
I think you found a magnifying glass and an odd radio tuner.
My guess is your headphone wires. The four wires leading to the headphone jack can often times rest on top of a ... how do you say... load bearing post. Notice the standoffs inside the shell that don't get a screw? Those make contact from one side of the shell to the other and must be free of other objects.
Yo littleFM will allow you to hold multiple LSDJ banks with a drag 'n' derp. So far, derps seem to be more reliable than certain eras of bleepbloops, so I would take bitjacker's advice with a li'l grain of salt.
LittleFM:
http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2013/02/04 -released/
(there's also an 0.5.1 but all it adds is experimental EMS support:
http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2013/03/04 fects-you/ )
I have one of the warped Bloops and it works perfectly in an official shell.
I suspect that it is an op-code glitch with the GBC. I would like to hear what Nitro has to say too.
Each boy revision seems to have a glitch or two with particular op codes and op code combos.
There was a parallel battery mod for the GB pocket, but I can't remember the full details. Let me look that up again. ...
OmO wrote:invest in rechargable batteries bruh!
seconding this
Thats funny, I use them too.
loved that
Yeah, limit that current quick! Don't want to burn out your LEDs.
If you don't have 150's you can always add two 330's in parallel since they are quite common to get 165ohms. Since you used the term "shop" I assume you knew that though.
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Jazzmarazz