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(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Why do you need an audio taper? I used a linear pot in my last mod, worked fine.

226

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Mystery resolved. Google frequency divider smile

This will go I think http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe … ICS542.pdf

EDIT
But it seems that for division-by-2 a simple D flip-flop will go.

227

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Another option is to attach the second leg of the 1/2 crystal to the same pin you wire LTC1799, I can't test it right now, but I'll let you know smile

228

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

One option is to use LTC with some discrete voltage values to have 1/2 frequency...

229

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I see... well it means I need to find out how to make them switchable on the fly. I could always buy from Kitsch of course, but it's more fun doing things yourself smile

Apeshit wrote:

That's *extreme* green. Toxic green is an ASM color. tongue

Oh, right smile Well I buy a lot from ASM that's why the confusion smile

Apeshit wrote:

We might sell some genuine shells through the shop in the future. We have quite a few kicking around here.

Great news! But when are you guys having your clear shells restocked? Last time I was able to acquire just one it seems they go away instantly sad

PS. Liked the monkey head sticker I got in the last package from you smile

Actually no, we're talking about ticks, but if I want two boys syhcned and with the same exact tone, switchable clocks are a go.

232

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

In my previous project I used LTC only without additional oscillators, and I used a two-position toggle switch connecting clock output of LTC and the corresponding pin on the DMG PCB.

Yesterday I played with two oscillators - wired them with the same exact kind of toggle switch, as it shown in the instructable above. I removed the stock crystal and re-wired it with the 7.3 MHz. I see the screen becomes lighter / darker when I switch between them (which makes sense) but the image freezes and nothing's going on.

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(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Hm... interesting. I have the same problem with the x1 and x1/2 (bloody images freezes when I switch between them), but almost no problems with LTC (LSDJ crashes occasionally but it's very rare). What schematic did you use? I used this one http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Ult … Pitch-Mod/ and it works fine for me.

WACOMalt wrote:

The best thing for removing scratches is progressivly finer and finer sandpaper. Look in the automotive section at a hardware store and you should find some made for removing scratches from car paint. Start with something big enough to make the surface uniform, then work your way down until you get to a perfect surface. then finish up with some buffing compound and a microfiber or cotton cloth.


Yup, looks like this is the only option smile

I see, so it means that having both LTC and switchable clock is pointless...
Thanks! smile

Hello there,

I stumbled upon a couple of problems while experimenting with oscillators.

I wired native one with 7.3 one through a 2-position key. When I switch between them the image freezes. If I reset the boy - it works fine with either crystal.

Another problem I'm trying to penetrate is how does GB synchronization works (via link cable I mean). If I try to sync underclocked guy with the normal speed guy - what happens?

I wonder do I need both LTC1799 and switchable x1/2 and x2 crystals. If synchronized boys need to have the same *exact* frequency, then switchable crystals may come handy. Thanks!

First of, look at the gameboy *color* front light tuts, they're far more detailed, like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eqn9kemZiqI (it's a bit goofy, but shows how you should get the front light of the SP and put it in the GBC). And repeat the same procedure but with your AGB.

Secondly, if you damaged the ribbon cable the front light is STILL FULLY OPERATIONAL (although a lot of "modders" say otherwise). Look at the yellow-ish part of the front light panel where the ribbon cable is attached  to - you'll see two distinct tracks. Scratch them a little bit with a knife or razor until you get to the metal and solder wires there directly (keep track of + and - though). That's it. You'll have you're front light.

The backlight kit is always a good option, perhaps a little bit more pricey, but it will give you beautifully backlit screen without hassle.

Hi guys,

I'd like to use Arduino mini as the control interface for the mods and a middleware to transmit video signal via serial port.

Here's the setup I have in mind:

Inputs are
- a pot connected to analog input (and to LTC1799)
- a tactile switch acting as a button to select which mod to control

You press the button and enter one of the following states (value of each state is controlled by a pot):

- backlight and buttons illumination on/off (basically the leftmost pot position is off the rightmost is on)
- hex inversion on/off
- activate pitch by supplying 5V to LTC
- switch between x1/2 x1 and x2 speed oscillator

Now the last point is a problem. I need a voltage controlled switch activated by voltage. I used NPN transistors in the past to activate power supply to the certain regions of the circuit, but I'm not sure it will work with an oscillators. So any help on that matter will be very appreciated. Thanks!

Oh, and do you have any ideas what else I could with Arduino inside the gameboy? Apart from Arduino boy of course... Cheers!

EDIT:
After some experimenting I discovered:
- Transmitting pixel data to PC via serial port is a nasty bitch (but I'm not sure it completely impossible);
- As I expected transistor is useless for voltage controlled oscillator switch (at least I've learned something);
- Using internal Arduino as a cartridge SRAM reader seems to be feasible (only need as shift register)...

Hi guys,

Always wanted a white gameboy and painting the clear guy from inside looks like a go to me. I tried Krylon flat white on a piece of clear plastic. Result was pretty nice but a bit sort of bubbly. Perhaps I was not careful enough... Anyways

- should I choose a better brand?
- should I use the adhesion promoter?
- how should I approach hard to reach regions (like the area near the cartridge compartment on the back shell).

Anything else I should be aware of?

Thanks! This forum is a fantastic source for mod advices and ideas! smile

Update:
Darn! Should've posted on Nintendo handhelds sad

Thanks guys, I'm aware of Kitsch and ASM. But they don't sell the original Nintendo shells, as well as toxic green clear pocket ones or play it loud plastic cases. And I'd like to have my original Nintendo clear plastic parts nice and shiny.