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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by friendofmegaman
So I read through the whole thread to recap everything that has been done.
My current thoughts:
1. I'm gonna stick to original idea of DMG/Pocket to computer.
2. I need to check with one of my co-workers (who turned out to be competent in FPGA) what kind of board is needed to pull off video capture. I'll let you know what board I'll have ordered and dump all the info here.
I agree with Jazz that this is not the very best of ideas I'm just curious to pull it off for the sake of it.
If you want to play games on the DMG, but want a copy of the screen sent to the snes for say, a workshop, then no.
Yah, actually I was hoping to achieve exactly that. Not for a workshop of course, but for LSDJing on big screen without patching LSDJ to be in tune with other instruments (since SGB has slightly different frequency)... Why is it not possible? I thought NeX has done something like that hasn't he?
Also I wasn't aware about Timbob's SBG to DMG LCD mod. It's brilliant - thanks for sharing!
But yah, I'm moving away from the original idea of video capture. I should discipline myself and get back on track.
One thing I still would like to try though is modifying an SGB to receive video data and sound from a DMG or Pocket. Do you guys know has anyone documented this mod?
I once used 32 AWG and it didn't overheat and still doesn't. Typically though I'd use 28.
It would be cool to repurpose it to do something else, like control pitch mode, or trigger LSDJ notes in keyboard mode or activate LEDs in a certain way...
Are you sure your backlight and polarizing film sit properly in the white plastic surrounding? You might want to cut a hole for wires and trim the film a little bit.
friendofmegaman wrote:Speaking of which, I noticed you're using LTC KZ I'm having really reeeeally hard times finding this one.
LTCKZ is a a part marking for the LTC6930, which should be readily available if you search for it under that name.
And found some indeed, thanks a ton mate!
oh sh**..... i forgot all about this
i need to get 3_clk released... perhaps i'll finish soldering and 'unveil' that at BRKfest
Speaking of which, I noticed you're using LTC KZ I'm having really reeeeally hard times finding this one. That's why I'm looking at LTC1799. If no one responds I guess I'll have to experiment on breadboard to figure out or fine tune with a pot...
Looking at the LTC 1799 design notes it appears that one could make a double speed and halfspeed switch for DMG by setting the 4th pin (DIV that is) to 1 and Rset to 12k (for x2) and 47k (for x.5).
Except these values are a bit rounded to the closest resistor value available. It's really 47.6xxxx and 11.9xxxxx.
My question is has anybody done that and is it the .04k and 0.01k difference crucial for LSDJ to be in tune?
Bump.
Its been ages since we last spoke about this, but I think I can set aside some testing time tomorrow. I got the day off and am waiting on some PCBs (unrelated) so I need to fill the time.
I'm currently loaded with work and plus I don't really know where to move on apart from either a powerful uC with >=2 ISPs or an FPGA and both require more investments 
BTW The idea with camera and wide angle lens failed as well I observed minor improvement in contrast but it was still impossible to play.
friendofmegaman wrote:Apart from the aforementioned points I also replaced a cap on the power regulator with new (and bigger) one and replaced both caps on the phone jack PCB. And I have no hum at all.
I will probably do this mod in a near future, would you mind telling which cap did you replace and with which value?
Also, does this hum issue concerns only the regular mini jack output or also Pro mod sound output as well?
Thanks!
Values are the same as native (they're written on the caps) I replaced them just in case. I'm not sure about pro sound since this was a gaming gameboy.
If you want to avoid hum I suggest using this approach http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/6031/ … -mount-ic/
In one of my other projects I used DIP inverter, but managed to allocate it right above the LCD jack and in such position there's no hum at all. If you're using ThursdayCustoms's biversion kit you're fine as well 
The hum appears when your inverter is somewhere in the region of GB processor on the link port half of the board. That's what trial and error shows.
1. They aren't polarized. Check your prescription.
2. For the non-polarized.
I see now, my bad. Prescription says cocaine so that could be the reason I saw polarized...
Two quick questions:
1. Why there are polarized 4.7V caps on the picture?
2. Can I use ceramic ones?
Thanks
Today I biverted one of my old backlit DMGs and discovered that it indeed produced hum. What I did is opened the case and started moving the hex inverter around (I used a SOIC package so I had it wired and thus was able to relocate it while GB was on). I discovered two things:
1) it's better not to take power from the power regulator pins instead I powered it from a +5V above LCD connector. when i did that the amount of hum decreased significantly
2) when the inverter is located on the side with the power outlet there's almost no hum and vice versa - move it to the side with the link port and your hum will turn into a hypnotoad
Apart from the aforementioned points I also replaced a cap on the power regulator with new (and bigger) one and replaced both caps on the phone jack PCB. And I have no hum at all.
Of course it was a 'mechanical' solution. I don't know the real cause of the hum and so have no clue how to address it by the book.
The engineering solution is brilliant! I'm stealing it.
Finally managed to make my first Arduinoboy. Nothing fancy, pure functionality. It's based on original schematic but has nitro's fix.
I'm pretty happy with it I have to say Little write up about the project is on my blog: http://friendofmegaman.wordpress.com/20 … rduinoboy/
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by friendofmegaman
