PMed

2

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

jam wrote:

Need to wait for panel mount ports for charging,

Speaking of, did you have anything in mind for that already?

Micro USB seems like the go-to charging connector for this type of thing. However, my searches for panel mount Micro USB connectors in the past have shown they're always expensive (~$10 a piece) and physically bulky. It might be simpler to use a PCB mount connector (either on a breakout or built into the LiPo charging board).

Or you could use a different type of connector entirely. That's an option.

3

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

powersupply wrote:

Looks good, I think the start/select buttons look a little out of place though. Maybe they should be bigger?

The Start/Select holes are probably designed to re-use the existing buttons from the GBC. Changing them would require designing and manufacturing new silicone pads/buttons (which is possible, but probably too much effort).

4

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

MaxDolensky wrote:

Why not jump straight for the GBASP? I have been meaning to design a chocolate bar styled case for it (think flat GBC).

That's really not a bad idea. Shoulder buttons could end up pretty awkward without careful planning, and might need off-board switches. Charging and link ports would probably need to be relocated (good excuse for a proper headphone jack while you're at it). I really wish I had the technical skills to help with a project like this.

5

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

A nice touch would be to make sure a frontlight kit will fit without any modification to the case.

6

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I'm not an expert, but maybe a product like this would help? Also, unless you quite literally have no ground (like, no dirt underneath your house), you can hook a wire to a buried water pipe or drive a metal stake into the soil to provide an electrical ground.

People sometimes put GBA SP speakers in older Game Boys. You have to cut a notch in the plastic frame of the receiving console to fit the connector (at least for GBC).

As Knife Crimes said, there are some nice little self-contained coils with all of the electronics built in for USB output, designed to sit on the back of a smartphone underneath a case. Example.

I think one of those would connect directly to a USB LiPo charger without issue.

You'll have to make sure that the Game Boy can handle up to 4.2v if you're connecting it directly to the battery. That's about the voltage you'll get during charging and for a short time after a full charge with LiPos. The guide you linked does this seemingly without issue, so take that however you will. If you find the Game Boy can't handle this, you'll need a regulator of some sort.

Also, make sure your LiPo has a built in protection board. Almost all of them do, depends on where you buy it though. If it didn't have that protection circuitry, you could accidentally discharge the battery so far it would be ruined. It also usually provides over-current protection, which is nice if you don't want your Game Boy to literally explode in your pocket in the event of a short circuit.

9

(17 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

The ultimate "salvaged from something lying around the house" wire is an old printer Parallel port or large Serial port (like the 25 pin type) cable. Inside you'll usually find literally dozens of different colors of thin-gauge stranded-core wire. Stranded is better than solid-core for this type of stuff IMO. If the wires don't all have unique colors, they'll at least have unique markings, like the stripes on Cat5/6 wiring.

atomsmasha wrote:

could use some sort of internet time service to aid with the sync?

this time server synchronizes with an atomic clock and has an accuracy of 20-100ms, depending on your connection - http://time.is/about

I think you can get far more accurate time synchronization via GPS or CDMA connections (both can be done via smartphone, for example), but that wouldn't solve the problem. The issue isn't with time synchronization, it's simply with the internet latency between the two gameboys.

If LSDJ was modified specifically to support this and compensate for latency, maybe it could be done.

thursdaycustoms wrote:

The LCD was proprietary. It's very unique. So no, there is no other compatible LCD for the DMG. Not yet anyway wink

Paging Kitsch...

12

(2 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Awesome! I really need to get around to re-doing my crappy old SP-frontlit Color someday. What subreddit are you talking about?

13

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I might be wrong, but I'm assuming "A" stands for Anode. Which would mean you are correct.

14

(0 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Well, I was struggling quite a bit with cleaning the panel for my very first DMG backlight, and I done goofed and messed up one of the LCD ribbons. I re-soldered every single connection by hand, messed with the positioning, but I get flickering and garbage no matter what. I'm calling it quits and buying a new front PCB.

Anybody have an extra lying around for cheap?

I've seen a many console modders use IDE Ribbon cable from old computers. The connectors just pop off and you can peel individual wires off the edge like pull-and-peel licorice. Plenty of it be found in almost any computer more than 6 or 7 years old. IIRC it's usually 28 AWG.

Looks like this:

Has anyone come up yet with a way to make a standard off-the-shelf switched headphone jack work in place of the weird custom made jack found in the DMG? I don't just mean getting working headphone audio, I'm talking about making it so the speaker will switch on and off correctly.

For reference, a standard jack:

DMG jack:

(Full schematic here)