You'd need to tap onto the current limiting resistor for the power LED, not the LED itself

It would be best to adjust the resistor value for a full set of batteries rather than 5v regulated, but as Apeshit says you'd get brightness variations throughout battery life, and even pulsing as the batteries run really low. The option is yours, and I can get a pic when I get home.

Could be a tight fit with a switching reg, better would be a drop in high current replacement for the standard power supply. Better overall supply ripple, not just for backlighting. Maybe something for the pocket to, I've heard it struggles with EMS carts

The switch switches battery supply to the regulator board, so you'd connect it there, or input of the board.

Yes, you can add more decoupling caps to the board but the inductor has a particular inductance, the rectifier diode has a limited forward current, there are a copule of things that go into the design of a flyback converter, flybacks aren't known for their low output ripple. The nintendo supply is primitive.

Adding decoupling caps will generally reduce ripple but also increase current demands on the inductor and associated components. If the inductor can't supply the current, output voltage drops, inductors saturate, components get hot, things break.

I'm not sure where I got my backlight from, it was maybe 3 or 4 years ago now. The LED's are soldered to flexible PCB and have onboard current limiting resitors. They are horizontal and in my opinion too bright. I'd say they consume more current than the CPU does, and I know that the noise coming from the speaker when there is no audio playing is louder than an unmodded unit. This has no impact on me playing games on it but it would be an issue if I wanted to record direct from the GB.

To be honest, with the backlight, contrast is worse, battery life is absolutely terrible. Yes I can play in more lighting conditions, and yes it looks cool but it is not something I'd do again. There is a mod you can do which will increase the contrast (not bi-vert) but is not suitable for the average 'modder'. It involves removing the LCD drive voltage regulator and replacing it with a set of tiny SMD pots. You can then change each shade's contrast value individually. Doing this you can drive the LCD harder and make blacks blacker. This would probably have an impact on the LCD's life.

Apeshit, not meant to be an attack at you. All I am saying is SOME people go to great lengths to improve the sound out of their '30 yr old game console'. I'm sure you are aware of this. Why introduce more noise when the goal is to reduce it?

Just because it has been done a certain way in the past, it doesn't mean you have to keep it that way. If you are in the position to offer a higher quality product than the competitor, wouldn't you take it?

*any* loading to the regulator will increase ripple, it is in the design of a switching converter. If the idea is ultimately cleaner sound, adding an LED to the regulated 5v is not the best idea. If you want a constant brightness you can drop in a constant current supply. There's the easy way to do something, and then there is the right way.

Why not power the backlight BEFORE the reglator?
Makes zero sense to load up a very weak converter.

Yes it will dim as your batteries drain but not enought to be an issue

41

(41 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Timbob wrote:

Hi!
few questions:

1: I ordered some of those aliexpress carts a while back. 2 60 pins game pcb's and one 60-72 pin convertor with case. If I get your programmer from your website (Without the cart slot) can I solder the wires to the pins and good things happen? (Planning on soldering the wires to the converter pcb and build it into the case.. some slashing may ensue )
2: I saw the gameboy flasher was sold out on your site.. are they coming back? saves on shipping costs etc wink
3: what's your favourite animal?
4: a new flash cart sounds awesome. Not really a question, more of a remark.
5: did you know the link to your website on your cm.org profile doesn't work?

Hi!

Few answers:

1: that is how my ready made nes flash cart works. If you just want the micro sub-board and a pin to pin wiring diagram, we can make that happen.
2:they'll be back in a week or so. Waiting on pcb's
3.Rush (the dog from megaman series)
4.That is correct
5.My old page is down. We're living in the middle of nowhere and internet is via a Yagi raised on a 4m pole. No web serving happening out here... I'll migrate it to my shop.

42

(41 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

http://www.retrostage.net/nes_MMC1_boards.htm

Why aren't these used? I've ordered from him before, this exact board I think... I'll dig it out and see if his CPLD supports Neil's mapper mode.

Edit: Oh, CHR RAM and WRAM is not the right size or mapping... Can be fixed with a few wires though. Anyone want a guide?

43

(41 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

To be worth the time and effort, I'd be looking to sell at least 10pcs. I'll be using a CPLD for the mapper, I don't like the idea of destroying original carts for their mappers.

So if I get the interest for around 10pcs I'll begin breadboarding and start on the VHDL. It's a bit of an investment on the PCB's - gold plating isn't cheap on a board this size, plus the ROM, FRAM, RAM, CPLD's and cart cases.

I might have a solution for the gold plating which will bring the cost down a bit.

44

(41 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Visuals?

45

(41 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Im planning on building a custom flash cart designed to run Neil's ROMs. It'll either be USB direct into the cart to update the rom and load/save .sav files, or that will be handled via a dedicated cart flasher/dumper. It depends if people are happy to pay the extra to have it all rolled into one unit.

It'll have the standard multi-region CIC, gold plated fingers, FRAM which means no battery.

I'm aiming at $45 for the cart or $60 with integrated USB.

Any interest? Thoughts?

46

(41 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Im planning on building a custom flash cart designed to run Neil's ROMs. It'll either be USB direct into the cart to update the rom and load/save .sav files, or that will be handled via a dedicated cart flasher/dumper. It depends if people are happy to pay the extra to have it all rolled into one unit.

It'll have the standard multi-region CIC, gold plated fingers, FRAM which means no battery.

I'm aiming at $45 for the cart or $60 with integrated USB.

Any interest? Thoughts?

47

(41 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Email me the ROMs and I'll give them a try

48

(8 replies, posted in General Discussion)

No problem Tronimal, I'll compile all the various lsdsng's into a kind of sampler album. Be sure to add your name to the track/email