There are several revisions of these carts. Can you take a photo to compare so you dont accidentally get incorrect info?

Nice work, Knife Crimes. This could be very useful.
Update us when you are able to test it, MazHoot.

19

(9 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

Peter Dodge wrote:

bottom pic
side of R3

The R2 is the correct value, as for R1, it is a 15K, since I don’t have a 12K
R7 is a 10K, you might just not be able to see it, and R5 is an 82k with a 100K soldered on top to make ~182K also FYI R3 is 4 100Ks with a 62K or something like that with some heat shrink tubing on it.

You've mixed up your series- and parallel-resistance calculations. An 82k in parallel with an 100k will equal 45k. They need to be in series to get 182k. R3 is going to be way way lower with 5 resistors in the mix.

Bottom pic please. I would like to see the traces which were supposed to be cut.

21

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Ntnd.fn wrote:

Hey guys, I’m having the same problem. I had a broken headphone board, so I ripped all the cables that connects the headphone board on the main board.. now I got no sound from the speaker. Can someone please help me on that?

See Kitsch's or Alley Beach's replay above.

Since your LEDs are responding now, I think it's time to look at your "link cable." Its possible you have Data IN and Data OUT switched.Can you just swap the solder points on ONE end of the cable and give that a test?

23

(2 replies, posted in Releases)

Bandcamp is waiving fees again tomorrow.

Doctor Octoroc wrote:

So quick update, I tried turning it on today and turning the color/brightness wheel to see if there was any response and it was too tight (screws were a tad overturned) so I went to loosen them up and once I released some pressure from the two screws closest to the wheel, the display came on for a few seconds. I got all excited but then I lost it again and can't get it back no matter what I do.

It sounds like there may be a broken solder joint on the wheel, or near it. Can you look at the solder points very closely? Both on the wheel and the other component on the opposite side of the board?

I realized after asking that you already have DIN MIDI working on another MCU, so I doubt you're doing anything wrong. I noticed in the main arduino sketch that "teensy usb midi is supported" and your LEDs work, so all of that is correct. I really don't know whats wrong. Could you possibly try another software or even computer, maybe with windows?

That does look right. Maybe it is on the PC side after all. What MIDI channels are you sending?

The original code doesn't listen for USB MIDI, only din MIDI but I'm sure theres a usb code floating around. Try googling teensyboy.

28

(14 replies, posted in Software & Plug-ins)

Quarantine got you salty?

29

(14 replies, posted in Software & Plug-ins)

It looks like a great page until you open one of the programs. xD Virtually unusable on modern hardware in spite of them all having x64 installers. egr is right about demoscene trackers in that these were all designed to run on a 640x480 monitor. OpenMPT does look like the best option though. I'll look at that one next.

30

(14 replies, posted in Software & Plug-ins)

What trackers can output MOD files? I'm playing with GB studio and it only accepts MOD files.

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalo … stripboard

Thats a pretty simple circuit for you to need "the biggest stripboard!" I think you only need about 20 rows, but it is cheap enough to stock up.

32

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Me too! (in 2019)