A jingle bells tune from Nordloef, coding/graphics from Ultramega. There's also a physical cartridge for $12.00 for anybody interested in that.

Download link and more details at the ASM blog: http://asmretro.com/index.php?route=inf … ;news_id=1

482

(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

There was a flaw in some of the ones from the last batch. Annoyingly enough, they work fine with all of my audio gear so I didn't even catch it. Surprised I didn't get any emails about this.

Please get in contact via the contact form at the shop and I'll replace, fix or refund any faulty ones. Or with some basic SMD soldering skills, I'll send the instructions on how to do the fix. My fault, sorry guys!

483

(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

12ianma wrote:

I got one too that had this issue. it was missing the resistors. Check for empty pads right under the holes for wires

This was cleared up already. You tried to solder the jack with a heatgun for whatever reason and the components blew off. The pads were all tinned, I wouldn't overlook soldering the "resistors". I have a picture of the kits from that batch and all the components are present.

484

(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Shoot me a message via the contact form. I'll work through it with you.

I just wanted to bump this because I've been having no luck contacting kevzor about this.

It's now been nearly two months and I did not receive my parcel, which was apparently shipped. I haven't received any communication in over a month and I've tried three different means of contact.

Does anyone happen to know kevzor? Or did anyone contact him about this? I'd like some communication before pursuing anything with this. Seems I've gotten too comfortable with trading on here. Probably should have checked forum activity first. What a shame.

486

(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Have you tried contacting retrozone? The powerpak has a 5 year warranty.

The problem won't be from the LED brightness, the LED is calculated to be at the optimal value. It sounds like you ripped a ribbon cable or your batteries aren't charged.

EDIT: actually, from looking at your pictures, it looks like the cable that connects the LCD board to the motherboard is destroyed.

488

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

NES controllers use an 8 bit shift register with signal/ground. The DMG uses a simple matrix for the buttons, and connecting an NES controller without diodes will result in some unwanted shorts. So this can't be achieved with an adapter, at least not without a rom patch.

The same results can be achieved without destroying NES hardware. You'll just need some momentary switches and a box.

489

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Goughy wrote:

With the clear screen, there's no sticker behind it to cover the residue. Would you recommend just scratching it off with a screwdriver or like a magic sponge or something?

That's printing, not a sticker!

Magic eraser and certain solvents would be best. Razor blades tend to scratch the plastic a bit, especially if they're dull.

Saskrotch wrote:

take the cart out when you plug the usb in.

This is a completely different issue.

At any rate, this probably shouldn't happen. I'm rather unfamiliar with the device, but as far as I know it's a PCB that plugs into a link cable, for MIDI syncing? There should be no voltage pin present. Is it a genuine link cable?

491

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I mean you'll need a new battery with tabs built in. Don't solder directly to the stock battery. I had a fairly serious injury from an exploding button cell battery, so it's wise not to take any risks.

It's not just the height of the battery that's a problem, it's the position of it too.

492

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Well, you'll be able to solder a different battery. Don't solder directly to a battery without tabs, they can explode.

You still might have trouble closing the cartridge after relocating it, some of the components are questionably high on the PCB for a classic gameboy cart case. You'll be able to close it, but might not be able to open it without brute force.

There's nothing else bonding the sheet to panel, sounds like an air pocket or something.

There's a strip of adhesive on the top and bottom under each sheet.

495

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

There's no reason to connect it to the 5v source, the batteries are capable of powering an LED. This will just defeat the purpose of having a battery indicator LED. You'll just need to adjust the resistor, or maybe remove it/bypass it. You'd need to know the input voltage.

Best to stick to buying LEDs from retailers that provide datasheets to avoid problems like this.

496

(15 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Vex wrote:

Id say no more than 3 for red and maybe 2 coats using blue. Its got to be a paint meant for metal if you want it to be see through. Also keep in mind the darker the color the fewer coats you want to use.

Side note: A lot of people think krylon xmetals is the only brand that lets you spray and keep a clear look or if youre doing a grey dmg itll let the lettering sahow through. This is not the case however, there are other brands that still allow for a clear look you just have to find them. Krylon Xmetals is just more available I think. But any spray paint meant for Metal will work.

More than three is fine. I sometimes do up to 10. The coats should be extremely thin.

And that's certainly not true about any metal spray paint not covering up the text or being translucent. Stick to X Metals just to be safe.