It can actually be done very simply with a DPDT switch. You'll just need to wire the left and right headphone signals to the switch and the left and right "pro sound" signals.

Timbob wrote:
Apeshit wrote:

I suspect any attempts to program it "on board" will fry the MBC clone.

Yeah, but I was planning on desoldering it and putting it on a socket if it would work anyway.

That would work, but I doubt it would fit into a gameboy even if you routed out the shell...

I suspect any attempts to program it "on board" will fry the MBC clone.

I'm almost 100% sure this is made by the same people that made this. The console and the game. The poor milling of the PCB is identical.

Edit: actually, if I look at all my pirate carts, they all have very similar PCBs with similar markings. I wonder if they're all made by the same people.

Also, you should cover up that eprom so that it doesn't get wiped

Telerophon wrote:

I don't see a lot of people making some of the things he does

From what I've seen, everything he sells is someone else's work or someone else's idea with a much higher price tag. Like the video output he's trying to sell for $700 was already done by somebody else, but was supposed to be a $20 kit.

Also, can't forget this shameless rip off...

I was being a little generous in my first post. I can guarantee you did not sweat your DMG to death. There's nowhere for the sweat to even get into the DMG. Very few electrical shorts will actually cause a DMG to fail, you could pour a bucket of water on a DMG with a game inserted, and it probably won't even turn off. The problem here lies with who you purchased it from.

If you're willing to send it to Canada, I'll take a look at it. Provided the mod work is salvageable, I might be able to repair it for free. My guess is the backlight wires have shorted out.

I can repair it for you for pretty cheap. Although, I have serious doubts this is any issue related to water/sweat getting in through the screen cover. (Please don't prove me wrong)

Who modded it?

danimal cannon wrote:

Just like FLStudio not Fruity Loops big_smile

More like "Apple Store" instead of "Steve Jobs".

snesei wrote:

wait... you can actually see the lsdj song screen on them? I bought 2 from Apeshit and they would only let me press play to listen sad

Shouldn't be able to view the songs, unless a different rom was flashed onto them.

Also, you bought from ASM, not Apeshit. wink. There's a few people helping out with the shop.

I have paintable screen covers in the shop, but they're not great for detailed stuff like that: http://asmretro.com/diy-gear/gameboy-sc … reen-cover

539

(4 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Theta_Frost wrote:

Interesting.  Almost makes me want to reroute the prosound through an amp, to the headphone jack.

That's what the headphone jack is for. wink

540

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Thanks for the suggestions.

herr_prof wrote:

I think the taco midi idea is still the best, with 1/8 jacks connecting to specially made cables.

This would definitely be a cleaner install than cramming MIDI jacks in there. I thought about using mini DIN 5 jacks and just converting up. Those kind of cables are easy to come by.

Alley Beach wrote:

are you planning to have all the 23 I/O's in the final design? i think something like 13 is required. i've been pondering this idea for a while too wink

Depends where I intend to put the PCB, I suppose.

(Looks like you should rotate your IC 90 degrees counter clockwise. Some traces look unnecessarily long.)

ashimoke wrote:

I'd suggest hacking the a-boy code and replace all the leds with one rgb led. It'd save few wires and a lot of space. Someone might want to replace his power led with this.
Agree with the 1/8 midi jacks.

I considered using an RGB LED. It can be done all in hardware actually. Though I quite like the idea of an LED board...

541

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I started to make a small PCB for an internal arduinoboy, and I'm looking for suggestions on how to improve the board. This isn't going to be an ASM product, and I'll release the board files when they're finished.

My current plan is to have a separate LED board, and mount it under the power LED and make a custom screen cover for the LEDs. I may make a few of these if anyone else is up for building their own.

I don't really like how many wire pads are on the board, and I can think of a few way to reduce the amount. One idea I also had was to mount the board directly onto one of the MIDI jacks. This would reduce wires and also would keep the board in place. Space is my only concern with this idea.

The main PCB has pads for a header which will work with an FTDI breakout board to maintain programming capabilities. I plan to have the header accessible through the battery compartment. Not sure if this is very useful.

A (very) sloppy mockup of the unrouted PCB idea:

542

(5 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Unfortunately the battery doors are worth just about as much as the shell...

TeddyBearCedenski wrote:

So I scored this broken black DMG off ebay for real chip.

Someone is surely going to misinterpret that typo.

543

(16 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

nitro2k01 wrote:

The LEDs should give you no trouble. Because of the resistor, the current is limited,

My mistake, for some reason I didn't think there was resistors for the LEDs, but that's clearly not the case...

544

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

godinpants wrote:

Stumbling through the internet in the late evening I found this.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/47645 … light.html
At 20c a piece for an order of 100, this could be a cheap way to backlight gameboys on the wholesale for you modding chaps.
Size/shape/thickness and colour all appear customisable, not sure if 100 is the minimum order or if it's a larger number, but it might be a good deal for someone who uses a lot of backlights.

It says 20 cents - $100 per piece. You won't get backlights for 20 cents a piece unless you're producing in the millions.