705

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Rit dye, acetone (a more generous amount for clear shells) and water.

706

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Vex wrote:
Apeshit wrote:

That's exactly what I had done, but there will always be an outline.

Did you put the lettering on before you dyed the case?

After, The dying process probably would have removed the decal.

707

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Vex wrote:

The issue with the clear outline. Couldn't you just use a crafting knife after you lay it down to cut very carefully around the lettering as to get rid of clear blocky out line? Then maybe run a clear coat of spray paint over it so it's actually painted into the gameboy and not just a sticker or series of small sticker that can peel off over time

That's exactly what I had done, but there will always be an outline.

708

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

TrebleChild wrote:

faint clear outline is fine by me! I don't trust my hands, I'm no wizard like vex. I could try but I know it would come out like *insert favorable word of exressing terribleness*
Where do you get these decals or did you get them printed somewhere?

Those ones I printed off myself. Search "water decals".

709

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I've done it with decals, but you get a faint clear outline.

I think I've been waiting over 2 years for one of these.  Looks really nice.

Are you making a silicone mold?

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713

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Not exactly tie dye, but you could try a swirl paintjob. They can look pretty cool and there's tutorials online on how to do them.

Wire colors aren't consistent in cables. You should use a continuity tester.

If the LEDs light up, you have the 5v right and did the pin swap properly. Ground is easy to determine, then that just leaves the data and clock signals to determine.

Or maybe the pins are marked with silkscreen on the board. G, VCC/V, D, C, etc...You can unscrew it to check, if you haven't tried that already.

715

(17 replies, posted in Trading Post)

I'm interested, but as per the forum rules, you have to post prices.

716

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

The benefit to 1/4" is just durability. But most say it's not worth the extra effort to relocate the power regulator.

717

(29 replies, posted in Trading Post)

dsv101 wrote:

Ok guys, I would like to know if anyone would be interested in custom DMG Cases made from molds. I would like to invest in making a DMG case mold, and casting some. I am not sure on the exact plastic or material to use for the casts, but I don't want to invest if no one will buy some. So if you would be interested, say something smile

It's not really feasible. The design is too intricate to easily make a silicone mold. There's virtually no tolerance for inconsistencies, unlike with other projects, like buttons, where hand casting is more practical.

Vile wrote:

-Blue V3 backlight from ASM

That's VB. We don't have a version 3 panel yet. But I've realized that a lot of people think "V3" means three LEDs, so I'll let this one slide. wink

719

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

verplanck wrote:

Thanks, vile. I was looking at kitch bent's prosound kit, which was $22, and was trying to see if there was anything cheaper.  Looks like your link does the job.  What does K-B's kit do that the nonfinite kit doesn't?  Looks like the K-B kit Is mounted on a board with a couple caps on it?

You can get 3.5mm jacks anywhere, which is probably why Kitsch doesn't sell them. The kit you're talking about is my product, and it's definitely not necessary for someone that wants an inexpensive mod.

If you want to pay actual retail value:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/161 … db8MeoI%3d

Or you can pick up panel mount 3.5mm jacks at radio shack.

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