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Topics by nerdsome
Posts found: 33-48 of 315
kitsch wrote:its not really that its too much work, its just that i don't have enough space. i'm pretty short on it as is, i can't even imagine where i'd come up with the room to keep peoples 'orders in waiting', as it were....
Totally forgot about the space issue. Duh! Makes sense. Haha. I'm about to fire up a little web-based business based out of my house (not chip or music related though) and half my inventory just came in the other day and it's taking up more space than I realized so I know how ya feel.
Black and white cases are what I originally wanted! Can't wait!
Would you let people order but not ship immediately and as you get more things we want you just compile it into a full order so we can combine shipping? Or would that be too difficult for you? Too much work for ya I'm sure... I used to do that with my shop but I had 2 employees to help out with it.
BlakePalmer wrote:nerdsome wrote:I've saved tons of DMGs from the grave yard by doing other random repairs but the one thing I've never successfully done was repair dead vertical lines. I've never made it worse thankfully but I've never been able to fix the problem. Are there any good picture or video tutorials on the procedure? Maybe I'm just doing it wrong.
I don't know of any video tutorials, but i'm sure there are some on youtube. This is basically how i do it though:
All you need is a soldering iron and solder. heat it up, now add some solder but not too much, and apply it on that part underneath the removable strip near the bottom area of the panel. Don't be scared to heat up a certain area for a long time. You should be able to see what's happening on the screen as you're doing this. Make sure the contrast is set correctly. It may take a few tries, but just move the soldering iron across every few seconds, back and forth consistently, and you'll see every single line come back. I'm pretty sure that should do the trick.
Horizontal lines are the ones that can never be fixed, i've tried before and it was awful. i tried to heat up a paperclip and gently press it against the horizontal screen ribbon to heat it up slightly, but instead it cut right through it like butter lol.
I didn't use solder when I did this but I used a hot soldering iron and it did make the lines reappear but every time I lifted the iron, the lines would disappear again. Kept trying and trying but it never works for me. Tried it on numerous DMGs before I gave up.
The idea of spreading solder onto the ribbon cable scares me I think. Also, the solder I have didn't have a label or anything. It was in an unmarked tube with the solder pen when I bought it so I'm not sure if it has a flux core.
BlakePalmer wrote:Interesting. I've repaired more than 10 "broken" DMG's from craigslist with vertical lines and every single one of them have stayed permanently fixed for years now.
I've found that it definitely depends on the amount of heat being applied consistently with the iron.
Maybe it's just the different extents of damages that we've had to deal with, but you guys can feel free to buy full price gameboys all you want 
I've saved tons of DMGs from the grave yard by doing other random repairs but the one thing I've never successfully done was repair dead vertical lines. I've never made it worse thankfully but I've never been able to fix the problem. Are there any good picture or video tutorials on the procedure? Maybe I'm just doing it wrong.
Bit wish wrote:nerdsome wrote:Oh wow, you did make a mess of that. I'm sure I can fix it though. It will just require the removal of all that excess solder. Are you wanting the prosounds to be pre pot? Because if so, you shouldn't solder directly to the points that the pot is connected to.
yea, like i said, im really bad at this stuff. Did i mention i blew up a gameboy?
Is there any difference from pre pot and post pot?
Prepot is soldered before the pot. Post post is after the pot... You lose volume control if it's pre pot but it is supposed to be the best sounding. I do prepot just because I like the location of the solder points.
I have one that I got from xiwi. I painted it white and was just about to spray it with glow-in-the-dark paint if you're interested. I just got all the components to build another so I was planning to sell this one.
Oh wow, you did make a mess of that. I'm sure I can fix it though. It will just require the removal of all that excess solder. Are you wanting the prosounds to be pre pot? Because if so, you shouldn't solder directly to the points that the pot is connected to.
Wizwars wrote:if you have no social skills, drink. it helps. if you're heavily anti-alcohol, whatever. but i'm fucking socially retarded and i've found that at the very least a couple of shots before i play completely makes it possible for me to interact with the crowd. also makes it easier to talk with people at shows off the stage and whatnot. the more you drink, the easier it becomes, just don't throw up on stage, unless that is one of your transitions.
I'm totally the same way. I don't know why but when I'm sober, I'm super shy and if or when I actually try to talk to someone new, I just stutter a lot and sound like I only have a quarter of my brain. But once I get about 2 beers in me, I become super talkative and friendly and the stuttering goes away.
Wow, that's pretty cheap but it might be too small for me too. Part of the use of the screen will be for LSDJ on a Super Gameboy. So that might be too small for it for sure. But being so cheap, maybe I'll just buy one and give it a go. If it works, then I'll get a second one.
Oh those are nicer than what I need. I just need 2 5-7" screens to hook up to Super Nintendos for a project. There's a few on eBay I've been watching but I'm trying to keep the overall cost down.
RetroCapsule wrote:Thanks !
@GRYMMTYMM : I prefer to not sell them separatly for now
For those who don't like Red color. I have a classic Grey DMG-001 with the very same biverted backlight. In a like new condition, like the red one.
Everybody has to like the red DMGs. They're really sharp. The only color I don't really like is the green. They could have selected a more vibrant green. I have a green shell that's sitting around 'cause I don't really care to build it back up due to the color.
herr_prof wrote:
What screen is that? What did it cost?
zaxxon wrote:Well the first time I installed the PCB the component did that but now on the new board that component doesn't seem to get hot or cause any problems. I do get sound out of the normal jack but when you try to adjust the volume it starts making static noises and you do start losing noise out of different sides. Also the prosound jack just gives me partial amounts of sound or none at all.
The prosound isn't going to give full volume. You have to have it ran to a powered audio source. Static during volume adjustment can be caused by a damaged or loose volume pot caused by too much heat during soldering but it doesn't look like you soldered to the pot so that shouldn't be the problem.
PianoGameboy wrote:Ooh, I'd never thought to stick one in the dishwasher before. I gotta try that.
Is there anything I should keep in mind so as to now screw something up somehow, or is it pretty straightforward/foolproof?
Well, just take all the electronics out. Actually, I strip them all the way to the plastic (cartridge plate and battery contacts included). And I usually pull them out before the drying cycle. Heard that a dishwasher can melt the plastic so I just air dry them to prevent that from happening.
PianoGameboy wrote:But do they only have three functioning lines of pixels each and no working audio output, and are they sticky?
Got a DMG at Goodwill a few weeks back that was super sticky. Opened it up and it looked like someone spilled cola on it and it got all inside. Put the shell in the dishwasher and cleaned the crap out of the PCBs with rubbing alcohol and it turned right on when I was done. Green PIL for $2? Yes please!
Posts found: 33-48 of 315
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