1,937

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

The also have replacament housings in different colors for DS (both phat and lite.) Nothing for DMG though.

http://www.dealextreme.com/advsearch.dx … %20housing

1,938

(1 replies, posted in Bugs and Requests)

Responded!

1,939

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

It's a known bug... Nobody knows why.

1,940

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Inspired by monkeymook and sidslimed on 8bc, I've compiled an archive a GB sound/music software. The archive is arranged as a directory listing, and every directory can have a readme file and a couple of screen shots. The goal is to add that to as many programs as possible, but I just launched the site, so...

http://gbdev.gg8.se/files/musictools/

If your favorite program is missing or there's some weird bug, please tell me about it.

TmTgr wrote:

I'd guess ground->ground and left audio -> data in.

I think he meant for the cable to send data back to the GB.

You're not supposed to record audio from the link. Rather, there's a special mode that allows Nanoloop to output data as audio through the audio jack. I have no idea how to use that data, though.

1,943

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I have an idea for how you might (mis)use the serial port for this. You have already have 3 functions that map well onto the ICSP header, SIN, SOUT and SCLK. A small trick using a resistor is needed for one of the signals, however. Then there's one unused pin on the link port, which you don't actually need to connect according to the DMG schematic. You can use this one for ICSP reset. You can make that a cuttable trace, since it's not needed anymore once the Arduino bootstrap is in place.

I do recommend keeping the other header, containing Gnd, Reset, and two way serial. This allows reprogramming using an external USB adapter that plugs into that header, via the Arduino software. To make this optimal, it might be a good idea to rearrange the use of some of pins on the microcontroller. This would be pretty easy in the Arduinoboy source code, but would improve some aspects of the design. Further polishing of the code to allow it to peacefully exist together with the link port might be a good idea.

I would not support a removal of the link port, though.

Will have to elaborate on my evil ideas later, though.

1,944

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

arfink wrote:

I guess my approach is more coming from the modding-a-stock-DMG standpoint, not so much from the new motherboard. As for ESD, I am mainly referring to some kinds of DIY prosound mods which basically connect right up the CPU audio output pins, which to me is just something you shouldn't do out of the principle of the thing. In actual practice it's probably be OK, but I still wouldn't do it. Same for the noise issue, you can actually add more shielding/ground plane etc. with a new board, so why not.

Sure. That's stupid, but not from an ESD standpoint. (In short, ESD hazards mainly affect digital inputs CMOS inputs, and not pure outputs.) The hazard there has more to do with accidentally grounding the outputs and frying them, which is of course bad in its own right. But I'm under the impression that this is not the most common may of doing a Prosound. Soldering to an SMD pin is more difficult than soldering to the potentiometer. And in the case of epoxy blob boys, you'd have to solder to a via on the board. I think most people do it the conventional way. And when doing it the conventional way, there's a 50 ohm resistor that adds some protection.

arfink wrote:

As for the DC:DC, that's not some scare tactic, I'm just trying to be helpful.

The scare tactic part was a response to the quoted comment by low-gain. smile

arfink wrote:

I know the DC:DC in gameboys is pretty cheaply made, and it does in fact add alot of noise. Furthermore, replacing the DC:DC would also provide the added benefit of making the gameboy more capable of handing things like EMS carts, backlights, arduinoboys, etc, which draw alot more current than the DC:DC is made to handle. Especially in the GBP this would help to reduce problems with screen dimming and catastrophic crashes due to overdrawing the converter.

Increased power consumption means increased ripple, true, but that can be solved with more decoupling caps. But the problem on the other hand is to get that -18V. My point is that a DMG with a Prosound is "good enough". Redesigning the DC/DC, which would be a hassle, is overkill if all you want is reduce the noise.

I think the main problem with GBP is the choice of battery type, (AAA instead of AA) not the DC/DC. Bibin did a modification where he used a Li-Po (IIRC) battery, which increased stability greatly. EMS carts are notorious though, because they have a design flaw which makes it eat more power than it should.

1,945

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

low-gain: OR make a really really easy modification and get rid of the noise, and be happy with it. Someone apparently can't stand losing an argument.

1,946

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

low-gain: If you want to eliminate the need for an extra jack, the idea of using a new amplifier does make sense. But the current "Prosound" modification is easy to do, especially on stock consoles, and works well enough.

As long as you use the modification for high impedance inputs only (mixers/soundcards etc) there is absolutely no problem. In fact, it's not much different from the high impedance input of the DMG's own amplifier. smile

The DC/DC converter then... It does produce some ripple, but I don't think it's the main source of noise, at least not when bypassing the DMG's own amplifier. Where this is really a problem, it can probably be solved more easily with more filtering. The main problem with replacing it, though, is that provides -18V for the LCD in a small form factor, which you'd have to make up for.

low-gain wrote:

agreed. output amp is very important. you really shouldn't just top off the main outputs of the CPU.

This is just a scare tactic without much basis in reality. How about a real argument? Unless you're looking to eliminate the need for a dual output, or you're very keen on getting noise-free headphone sound, I don't see the need for a new amplifier.



Arfink: Picking up noise from address lines: Marginal problem. Insofar that this is a problem, it can be improved by tapping ground off of a location near where you tap the signals.

The ESD argument... No, just no. If you want me to elaborate on why this isn't a problem, I could.

1,947

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

animalstyle wrote:

this is a good fucking idea all around and would pave the way for some interesting mods i bet - i would definitely buy a pcb if you made a run.  make sure to put a variable clock in there!  would there be a way to get more S-RAM in there?  then we could extend the size of songs we could have on one LSDJ rom?  like instead of 8K S-RAM put like 16K in there or something.  256k and bring every song you ever wrote?

No, the modification I'm suggesting is for the internal work RAM. Has nothing to do with the external save RAM, that lives on the cartridge. However, my LittleFM LSDj file manager, that I like to namedrop, but actually can't seem to finish, does what you want by allowing the cartridge flash to be used as a save memory.

animalstyle wrote:

or is the S-RAM just inside the ASIC CPU chip?

Actually, it's using external RAM chips.

animalstyle wrote:

it would be badass if someone reverse engineered the CPU chip and bumped the processor power up so you get crazy FM sounds like TG16 on a DMG.  Sorta like what i think Mr. Baldwin is doing with Pulsar.

Actually 1: People have already done that and made a FPGA implementation of the CPU. See: http://www.fpgb.org/
Actually 2: That should be possible to do in software with the current CPU and CPU speed, just that LSDj doesn't do it. (Although the HF vibrato is tasty!)

1,948

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

low-gain wrote:

i have a stupid question.. why would you make pads for "pro sound modding" when you're designing a pcb? just make the audio lines the way they should be with a quite buffered output...

It works well enough as it is, at least when driving a high impedance, like a mixer/soundcard input/an amp. Don't fix it if aint broke.

low-gain wrote:

that being said.. it's a DMG!!! it doesn't need to be modified.. lol.

Well... I used to believe that, until I heard the difference myself. It's true that DMG doesn't sound as horrible as GBC when unmodded, and that the modification doesn't (and doesn't really need to) improve frequency response. But what it does do is improve the signal:noise ratio, by both bypassing the amplifier, which adds noise, and providing a higher nominal voltage. This comes at the cost of higher impedance though, which does make the output unsuitable for headphones, but, again, works just fine for high-impedance inputs. If you're actually serious and want a clean recording, or less background noise when performing on a big PA, the mod is the way to go. If you're just starting out and hardly know how to use LSDj, it can wait. smile

1,949

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

gijs wrote:
tRasH cAn maN wrote:

I like my method better. tongue
Reason? Bass and kick waveforms can be chosen independently and you can also make use of the PU1 sweep setting.

my method has pictures (-;

But mine has (drum roll) a source file that you can download and have a look at.

1,950

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Rolf wrote:

Thanks for the advice! I'm fairly new to PCB design, so every bit helps a lot. I just add ground planes after routing because EAGLE won't render them on the fly, so it's tricky to organize things with them there.

There's a designated way of adding ground planes (or other planes for that matter.) If I remembered how to do it, I would explain to you here and now. tongue

Rolf wrote:

The socket actually has to be a DMG socket if it's supposed to fit in the case, because of the way the DMG screws together both inside and out.

Hmm, I don't have a DMG open to compare with, but I'll get back to you on this one.

Rolf wrote:

I'll look into the caps soon, I added the same number of extra caps to this board, but I should probably organize them a bit better.

It's good practice to have a big one near the power supply connection, and a couple of small ones spread out across the board, close to the other chips.

Rolf wrote:

I really like your idea of having extra 5V and ground pads for modders, as well as the extra RAM. I hadn't thought of that at all, but yeah, it should be possible to use up to 64KB with all 16 address lines, correct?

Yeah, but then there would be no space for ROM, graphics memory or anything else. The idea is based solely on the fact that there's an unused area of "mirror" RAM, which basically means that if the two top bits are set (as they are for all addresses in the $Cxxx-$Fxxx range) the external RAM is selected. But the third highest bit is simply ignored, which means the same area is repeated. Actually, it's a little more complicated than that, since the highest 512 bytes, which would otherwise be in mirror RAM, are actually used for other things and don't reach the external memory bus.

1,951

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

scienceguy8 wrote:

Will you be releasing the EAGLE files under an open source or non-commercial use license?  On the off chance someone tries to recreate the GameBoy processor with an FPGA, or tries some other complicated mod, having this board for a template would make things much easier.

Actually, that's what my comment about Jose and blackmailing was about. At least two people have made FPGA implementations of the Gameboy CPU. Then at some point, Jose got his "ultimate handheld" idea, which would among other things contain a real DMG CPU and a FPGA emulation of a DMG. So he turned to the creator of "FPGABoy", costis, and tried to make a deal. But as it also turned out, Jose had registered FPGABoy.com, which used to belong to costis, but expired, and used that as a bait to make him sell his design to him. Costis refused and never got his domain back. He also got cold feet and decided not to release FPGABoy as open source, which was his original long-term goal. So yeah...

1,952

(82 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Theta_Frost wrote:

Transplanting a SGB CPU should be way easier now too.

Yep, forgot to mention that.

Theta_Frost wrote:

I was thinking of a expanded RAM idea like nitro as well.

No, you didn't. tongue
(Unless you actually knew about the mirrored RAM on $E000-$FDFF)

Theta_Frost wrote:

An odd feature I would like to see would be the VIN pin on the connector moved to some pads as well... I plan to experiment with this soon.

What are you trying to do? Since the Vin pin has very snug voltage range requirements, and only works if the program running on the GB activates it, I think you're better off injecting your signal into the post-CPU, pre-AMP part of the chain.