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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by nitro2k01
I get the crappy google translate sentences, but what's with the random animal names?
They seem to be really fond of daddy long leg spiders and bird of prey...
That's the site's word filters. It's really saying something like cats and various animals.
SEO. Google ranks pages based on how many links they have. These spam various forums and posts links between each place they spam. That way, google (supposedly) thinks these pages are really hot. And then from each spam post, there's also a link to their real page, the one that sells something or so.
A question was moved to the appropriate section -> http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/16518 … based-daw/
Post broken out from the FAQ thread.
If all you need is sync, you may be interested in Gijs' Master Clock Generator. I don't think you can buy or otherwise easily attain one, though.
http://gieskes.nl/master-clock-generator/
edit: Or, I guess, an Arduinoboy could be modified in hardware and software to do the same thing.
Moved to the audio production subforum.
The protocol is documented, perhaps in excessive detail, here.
http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2013/03/04 … fects-you/
Or as a direct link to the text file with the gory details.
http://blog.gg8.se/gameboyprojects/week09/EMS_FAQ.txt
So the short story is that the cart itself is “dumb”, and their patched multirom menu could be used just as well on almost any flash cart.
This is completely false. To be able to do multi-ROM, the cartridge needs to be able to remap the ROM space so the select ROM thinks it's the only ROM on the cartridge. This requires that the cartridge has this capability. You still need a program of some kind that can look for multiple ROMs and poke the cartridge the right way to be able to run one of the other ROMs..
Something like "Disneyland paris, prepare yourself"?
Sorry folks, sort of private joke
But I don't think GB-303 can output digital tone modified frequency codes!
I do have a spare, but I expertly ran 5V up the wrong pin of the MIDI-in DIN and it no longer responds to MIDI.
That sounds wrong. Given how a MIDI in port is supposed to be designed, putting 5V on any of the pins should do no harm.
It seemed like there was in fact amplification control, especisllay near the end. In fact even the squares grew taller(not wider) when the volume increased. Would the height not be the amp control?
Oh now I see the point of your comment. I made a typo in the original post. It was supposed to say no VCF.
It seemed like there was in fact amplification control, especisllay near the end. In fact even the squares grew taller(not wider) when the volume increased. Would the height not be the amp control?
They're abusing the optical audio track of the film. (Seen sideways in that video.) The track would normally look like in this image, and you woul have a slit that you shine light through and measure the light intensity continuously and convert that into a voltage to drive a speaker. But since all that matters is the TOTAL light intensity, you can get away with drawing multiple tracks like that. Taller square means a higher amplitude in the on periods of the square.
Interesting article:
http://dangerousminds.net/comments/list … ade_from_c
This piece, imo, has a lot of chiptune aesthetic in it. Not just by accident since the waveforms are hand drawn or hand cut, and there's no VCA like in a typical electronic synthesizer.
Thanks for the input thus far, folks. Who aside from OSH Park should I consider for small pilot runs?
Try the site http://pcbshopper.com/
Generally, for very small boards, and small runs, a reasonable quality requirement, and and a reasonable shipping, oshpark is the way to go. If you want slightly bigger boards or a bigger run etc, it might be worth looking at the other manufacturers. Also do you research and look for reviews of the manufacturers in case some of them are bad apples.
The Teensy in the photo is one I've absolutely destroyed because the one I'm going to use needs to be salvaged from another build.
Call me crazy, but I think that Teensy is totally salvageable, if all you destroyed is the USB jack. Given thin wire single strand wire, a good iron, and some flux, and of course patience, you should be able to connect single strand wires to the resistors. That's your D+ and D- pins. If you want to live on the wild side, (or you messed up) you can even get rid of the resistors and connect the wires directly. This will violate USB spec, and offer slightly less protection of your chip and USB port, but will usually work. Ground and Vcc should be far easier to hook up, but you need to find the right place to connect +5V, in case Vcc on that board is actually the regulated 3.3V.
But that's only one side of the story (and conneciton). I designed these little simple minimal USB port adapter for random uses, which would be suitable here. Just glue this board down over the missing USB port and jump the wires over from board to board.
I may also have some comments about the project in general. If you're going to do this seriously, you may consider making your own board for the microcontroller, at least if you can have them assembled with a pick and place machine by the board house. That would give you more freedom to fit more stuff in less space in total than using a premade Teensy unit. SMD size: Like Benn said, if you're going to solder by hand, use 1206 resistors, though I think most people can get used to 0805 rather easily too. And to again echo what people have said, the board house will typically provide you with specifications and DRC rules. Nevertheless, stay a bit above the minimum width to avoid problems.
As of 2015-04-01, BGB is Gatsu, a multi emulator suite with support for GB, GBA, NES, SMS, SMD and Atari Lynx.
In case of any confusion, that was an April's fools joke.
If you missed it: https://bgb.bircd.org/gatsu.html
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by nitro2k01