Search options (Page 29 of 137)

The command description is described in the quick manual. (Press A when the cursor is over the command and look at text in the top row.)
Values 0-7 = absolute volume. Values 8-F are relative. And yes, even volume value zero won't make the volume go to complete silence. Try putting a note with the default instrument (the important part being, a non-changing volume envelope like A8). Then put a M77 command on the note to reset the volume. Then put MFF commands on the rest of the (empty) rows in that phrase. Or you could manually put the values from 7-0. Then play. This should give you an idea of the range the command has. This also differs between Gameboy models because the global attenuator (most likely) is an analog attenuator that is not perfect.

Right, the definition I'm using is being able to input the typical 31250 Hz UART current loop into the cartridge with minimal effort, as that would be one of the two things people would actually be interested in using for practical purposes. (The other one being MIDI over USB.) Additionally, even if you set up MIDI over V.22bis, I believe the Gameboy CPU would have to poll the cartridge periodically to see if a UART transfer had started, whereas the game link port can create an interrupt.

Having multiple ROMs on the SD card is sort of the point of the cartridge. LittleFM wouldn't support any special features of this cartridge, however I would still recommend using it (on any cartridge) for the faster and safer loading of songs, replacing that functionality of the built-in file manager. I could probably make special functionality for the Everdrive cart if I had access to one, but it would probably work and be easier to have multiple copies of the ROM on the SD card.

More plugging. In case you didn't know, LittleFM does support some multi-ROM functionality for EMS cartridges. LSDj+as many small ROMs as you can fit, as long as the other ROMs don't use SRAM. It takes some manual setup currently, though.

Please change DMG-LSDJ-USA to DMG-LSDJ-EU or even DMG-LSDJ-SWE.

Yeah, good point. There's a checkbox in the left side of the header that lets you select all PMs on one page, too.

Which type of Gameboy? Does the B button work? There's a common problem where one pin on the CPU gets destroyed after inserting or removing the ribbon LCD board cable on a DMG when the Gameboy is still powered on. This can cause the left and B button to simultaneously and permanently stop working. But I've never seen this happen differently depending on which ROM you're using.

Most likely just to provide a lower impedance ground path to the full circuit, plus perhaps shielding, perhaps for regulatory reasons. Belts and braces type of stuff.

C2 and (I think from the schematic) C9 are connected from the respective amplifier output (pins 12 and 15) to ground, and provide some high frequency attenuation, so yes, they do affect the quality of the sound. (In the neutral meaning of the word quality.)

The Gameboy Wideboy development unit gives a hint. This development unit has a dummy piece for the Gameboy, with no CPU, but buttons and an LCD. Those same holes exist there, but have silkscreen marked out. They are intended for capacitors, for some overshoot limiting or so. However, they are not populated even in this dev unit.

Those are test pads for probing the video signals. On older DMG motherboards they are exposed to so you can probe them, but they remain in later revisions as vestigial traces. I would recommend exposing them if anyone for any reason want to probe the video signals.

You may have been looking too long at the schematic compared to a real motherboard.
The round ones are for attaching the copper sticker.

The connection point to the PCB is mechanically fragile. You want to make sure that all solder is molten before you lift it. Your best bet is likely hot air, but be very careful to not damage the LCD or LCD ribbon interconnect.

With love and tender care.

It should be about right, but good luck ever finding a suitable transformer new. You're likely better off designing a power regulator board from scratch.

The LCD board, despite being double sided, does not have through-plated vias. So those are indeed jumpers. On a modern PCB, just replace them with a track going on the bottom, connected on each end to the other side with a via. Note that one of the links (the one with two end on the bottom side) is not an electrical link, but a mechanical placeholder for the LCD ribbon cable.

Prosound. A footprint for an LCD signal inverter for a biversion mod using a 6 pin dual inverter. Arduinoboy. Maybe replace the headphone amplifier with something more modern and less noisy. Maybe a rechargeable LiPo battery, assuming this can be done safely. If you want to get funky, an analog audio filter like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KDI3UbW_3w.

*raises hand*

Should be about right, except maybe the naming of the display data pins, and the CLK? pin, which I believe isn't really a clock pin at all, but a gate signal specifying that there's bus activity.