113

(10 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Moved. For future reference, if this happens, using the report function on the post in question is the most efficient way to contact the mods/admins about stuff like this.

Little FM 0.5.2 released. Fixes a bug where some files would incorrectly fail to load with the message “no blockjump”.

Get it here: http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/gameboy-re … -for-lsdj/

115

(234 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

With that said, I'm not sure Pushpin is the GB MIDI panacea. mGB is probably over all a better solution. But now you have the choice. smile

116

(234 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Boom! Here's a version of Pushpin that works with SPI mode. (Arduinoboy/nanolooop MIDI).

http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2016/11/14 … loop-midi/

I used wc6w-x9bz.

118

(21 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

It's up again. Seems like all of Angelfire was down for a while.

http://www.angelfire.com/nc/ugetab/

119

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

oliver wrote:

Four directional circle buttons? From the inventor of the d-pad?

Maybe they consulted Apple.

The author contacted both me and nordloef and sent a new version, which is available for download in my file archive:

http://gbdev.gg8.se/files/musictools/Headache%20Boy/

Stupid question, but are you sure you are in the right mode on the Arduinoboy? You should be in LSDj master mode, as indicated on the product page. (Edit: or slave? I can't remember if master in the mode name refers to LSDj or ABoy being master.) And in case that the legend is somehow mislabeled, have you tried different modes to see if any other mode works correctly?

http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/ar … lectronics

While not a commercial product, this thing made by a certain fur ball from France may interest you.

http://furrtek.free.fr/?a=gbcc

If the LED is wired in backwards, the panel won't light up. Clearly not the problem here. The problem is the soldering of the inverter chip. Something in that area is either shorted or not connected.

124

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Or, the NL MIDI adapter. Maybe not the cheapest option, but probably the smallest and simplest. But again, no MIDI USB host.

http://nanoloop.de/midi/index.html

I'm not familiar with NL2, but this probably has to do with the timer resolution. There's probably no timer value that fits naturaliy with 110. You will probably find more gaps at higher BPMs.

BennVenn wrote:

You can drop in a $4 boost converter and won't have to worry about battery quality/charge.

Are you sure? The GBP (like all GBs) has a switching voltage converter built-in. If the voltage cut-off of Nintendo's converter is set too high, it may stop batteries from working before they're fully discharged, and then a boost converter would help. But I thought the problem with the EMS cart was that it's using excessive power, so that it both drains the battery faster, and is using more power than a typical AAA battery can deliver when partially discharged due to ESR. In that case, no boost converter in the world would help.

curtinparloe wrote:

In other news, I had a spare Li-ion 3.7V, 810mAh/2.997Wh which I jumpered up to the Pocket's terminals and it worked better than I expected. Is there a reason I can't/shouldn't put a single Li-ion AAA size cell with a dummy cell in the back?

That should work, better than using AAA batteries in fact. One thing to keep in mind: If it doesn't have protection circuitry built-in, you may want to be careful not to over-discharge it, or accidentally short it.

127

(8 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

There's a new player in town. You may want to check out re-303, with the tagline, it's not a clone, it's a replica.

128

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Both of you are probably wrong. If it was a USB cable problem, the cart wouldn't detect at all in the computer. It wouldn't randomly give glitched Nintendo graphics.

Probably, the cartridge contacts are dirty, or misaligned. Open up the cart and clean the edge connector with isopropyl alcohol.