65

(54 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Looks like I'm late to the party!

As far as I know you can read the controller port at any time - especially this way since we use the D0 line like a digital-in - no latching involved (which as a bonus means it's immune to any of the DMC false read problems). That external NSF thing I had done worked pretty much the way you described. It was simple for me since I didn't have to worry about the NMI - I didn't have to update the display or really worry about the engine. I just polled constantly in an infinite loop - the only thing in my NMI was an RTI.

The code pretty much went like this:

InfLoop:
LDA $4017    ; Checking for the first bit (A button) - this is basically used as a digital in
CMP oldState
BEQ +      ; If it's the same as the old state (0->0, 1->1) then skip (creates a rising-edge detect)
STA oldState
CMP #$01     ; Being here implies that there was change, if it was 0->1 then play a "frame"
BNE +
JSR PlayNSF
+ JMP InfLoop

So on any rising edge signal the NSF would step to the next frame - in the PR8 case a rising edge would trigger a step. If we were using 24ppqn we can just divide down pretty simply using some 7400 logic as suggested earlier. The big gotcha is monitoring that line enough so that we don't miss a transition.

I'll mull it over when I get home from work and post back- excellent job as always Neil.

66

(2 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

Nice man!

I had a great experience with BatchPCB - it's really great to see a finished board with your name on it - even better if it works on the first try!

Yes - been working overtime at my real job for the past 2 weeks so no time for this fun stuff. I'm working on a nice demo for my workshop so it should definitely be released by then.

Speaking of which - 8static - 11/13 - be there tri-state area - no excuses.
www.8static.com

God damn that is excellent ^

bleo wrote:

As far as MIDI... wouldn't this shit work?
http://narbotic.com/kits/midivox/

That thing is pretty awesome. It looks like it might do more than what's needed (it's a synth in itself).

Just updated the schematic to include MIDI-in.


MIDI-in circuit lovingly ripped from the Arduinoboy schematic (I had it already built!)

The MIDI portion is optional and is only really needed if you are using a real device. If you are using a computer as your MIDI source you can reroute the data over the virtual serial port that the FTDI chip on the Arduino provides and play it that way. All the video demos I put up were done that way.

Making good progress - wrote the readme for this stuff and started putting the latest files together. Last thing to do is to fix the pitchbend in FaMI and it'll be good to go!

I'm driving from LI (nassau) with 2 spots open if anyone needs a ride - let me know ASAP!

71

(20 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Placing myself on call for advice/parts/labor. smile

Work has been incredibly busy so things were delayed a bit. All the code is ready but I need a nice way to package it up for those who aren't looking to modify the Arduino codebase.

In the meantime for those who want to wire it - I threw together this diagram. I should commission ANIMAL-STYLE to do the full MIDI one - that CV sequencer schematic is an absolute work of art.

73

(32 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

herr_prof wrote:

... playing two songs at the same time, dj style. It was masterful ...

That sounds awesome.

herr_prof wrote:

Perhaps all you need is one controllers that could control to neses at once?

That's a great idea - the two clocks shouldn't drift out of time really. I guess the worst case latency between the two tracks could only be ~16ms (1/60), since the NMIs wouldn't be synced between the two decks.
The only other issue is that it wouldn't be as simple as splicing the wires together because of the way the controller works. The solution to this would be to piggyback another CD4016 on top of the original one in the controller so that they share the 8 button lines, but not the clock, strobe, and data lines. I'm not sure if there is room for that, maybe a NES advantage would fit the bill here? Or you can build the whole thing from scratch, might be worth it for something like a foot controller.

74

(32 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

I took a break from FaMI to try out something new.

I've coded up 2 different NSF playing roms (modified versions of the amazing vegaplay - thanks to NO CARRIER) - one is a master that sends a "sync" signal and one is a slave that does nothing but wait for the rising edge of that signal. Based on the way I'm running the sync it should be impossible for them to fall out of time. Right now I'm using an Arduino as a clock source (which is overkill, you can use something like a 555 timer) in place of a "master" NES but you get the picture. I don't have 2 powerpaks to test out the real deal right now, but would anyone be interested in this type of thing (before I work on it more)?

Possible uses:
- 2 NSF / 10 channel songs? smile
- If you use 2 slaves running from a single clock source you can play the same NSF to switch over during a live performance in case one fails

I'll look into the LSDJ sync some more next.

is

edit: from

Sorry I've been missing lately - I had ceiling leak in my apartment and it dripped right on top of my workbench. It missed my scope which is great but my NES/multimeter was soaked. Monitor got wet but still works fine, the stuff that might be damaged is easily replaceable so everything is cool.

I just set up everything again a few days ago (in a different place of course) - I've done a bunch of work with FaMI since the last time I posted and I'll put up an update soon!

In case anyone is interested - I managed to get the RBBB (the $13 arduino) working perfectly, you just need to change a setting with the FTDI cable and it'll work A-OK.

I have a few desoldered NES cables leftover for people who are interested! You can have one..
(but only if you come to 8static wink)

77

(20 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

arfink wrote:

Of course, with any battery, more current is usually better, as long as you don't go so far as to increase risk of arcing

Current does not work this way - I'm not so sure if you know how electricity works.

I would be careful about consistently running more than 1A through the power supply even though the stock adapter provides 1.3A. The 7805 voltage regulator is the first to go on a lot of the systems I've fixed (rated to 1-1.5A typically). From what I've read the psone screen draws about 0.6A alone, I'll take a current reading of the NES later on with / without standard cart / powerpak and post back.

78

(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Sorry I've been sort of missing lately - things got busy and my setup was (partially) destroyed by a leaky ceiling. My whole workbench was covered in water - thankfully my scope was out of harms way. Otherwise I'm out an NES / multimeter / arduino - good thing I had two of all those things. I'll get back on the saddle this weekend.

Otherwise here is an old video of sync working - seemed to fall out of time when we did the intermediate speeds but otherwise worked perfectly.


Want to team up again sometime soon Neil?

Oh hell yeah!!!

80

(12 replies, posted in General Discussion)

That was magical wasn't it? (PM'd)