209

(70 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

roboctopus wrote:

It works on the pulse and noise channels too.  Say you're running a table on the pulse and you want to change the note without retriggering the table, just delete the instrument.  Note changes, table (or envelope) continues uninterrupted.

I had no idea it worked with other channels, I thought it was just limited to wave!

Link goes to a 404, heads up.

211

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I would much rather lose the original headphone jack, its not pro sound.
Alternatively I also have a decent amount of space on the right side of the bottom shell.

Here are the 2 layouts I could think of that don't remove the speaker.

#1#

#2#

1: Remove of the stock headphone jack PCB and small plastic molding to hold the PCB in place
2: Dremel bottom shell to make room for knob and switch (Kinda odd placement though...)

If it be mandatory I must remove the speaker it will be done!

212

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Hello once again fellow chip-tuners, I just received my order for a LTC 1799 Precision Clock Kit from getlofi.com. I'm very excited for this mod, there is only one problem. Where am I going to find the room to mount this sucker?

I was thinking about removing the stock headphone jack board including wires and placing it below the start and select buttons.

I just want to double check with you guys that everything will still be functional if I do this kind of procedure.

213

(4 replies, posted in Releases)

Dido

This is fucking great man I dig it! A lot!

Its funny you mention that, a few hours ago I had already begun the process of interchanging the bottom board hopefully to find a fully functional CPU.

I then put in the flashed cart as you mentioned and to my surprise you were absolutely correct! The problem lied in the bottom PCB CPU unit, not the top PCB ribbon cable which I had presumed.

The 'Left-test.gb' ROM works beautifully for LEFT & B button diagnostic purposes.

nitro2k01 you might want to inform future testers that it is intended for screen to freeze at the 'NINTENDOr' logo after the ping, until either LEFT or B button is somewhat function and activated. I didn't quite know really what to expect and was considering that I may have done a bad flash or it was a cart related problem.

Although my inverted polarization screen actually turned white, which kinda threw me off for a few minutes.

FUNCTIONALITY!

1 Gameboy down, 2 more to go wish me luck!


-------------------------------------------------------------
On a side note:

Does anyone know where I could locate a tutorial / inform myself on how I "should" go about painting a DMG01?
What type of paints works best for a matte finish, while still withstanding minor scratches and such or how to add a protective sealant layer.
Spray paint, acrylic paint, paint markers???

Tested the rom. It is suppose to just chill at the boot logo correct?
Neither hitting B or Left would give me a darker screen.

Heres a CPU chip if it helps...


Does anyone know if it is realistically possible to transplant a ribbon cable that connects the two PCB's together?

There is two huge ass globs of solder on the sides securely attaching it to the top board which makes me think that the pins would come off in a somewhat clean manner.

I will test the rom in about an hour, at the moment 2 of my DMG's are getting paint jobs and its still wet.

The mother board revision is DMG CPU 08

yes you may

FUCK ME!!!
As a matter of fact the B button also stopped working sad
Third broken Gameboy in the past 3 days.

Anyone have any clue as to a fix for this?

The board is clean along with the rubber gasket. I don't see much room for error here. Its only the left all other directions work fine.
Nothing is seeming to go my way right now with in the gameboy hardware department.

Any ideas?

PM'd.
I just want to say, I can't thank you gentlemen enough.
I'm glad to have found such a fantastic chiptune forum community, you guys are fucking fantastic!

Wow! THANKS KINETICTURTLE SO MUCH!!! Very nice detailed post, I can finally stop racking my brain with troubleshooting for hours upon end.

I figured the second one photo'd was completely cached nada worries though. I don't know how I feel personally trying to solder the thin wires to the board contacts then to the connector socket. You would be correct this is really my first soldering project, but mostly its just because I've solder and soldered over it again and again due to trial and error and lack of patience with this machine.

Now I still have a perfectly fine ribbon cable (like shown in first picture) connected to the sliced ribbon cable unit. How difficult would you presume it would be to make this kind of transplant? / Would I even be able to handle it without a big solder mess?

Out of extreme curiosity and interest how much would and 3 of you guy's charge for this kind of operation or just an entirely new screen PCB?

I uploaded photos and a demonstration video  here : http://www.flickr.com/photos/78506184@N … otostream/

This is currently the first gameboy's bottom half with the second's front board installed, just to clear where this project is at right now.

Backstory: I recently purchased 2 dmg01 gameboys to add to my collection, which are somewhat broken now.
Which is great and all but the first one that I received I spliced the ribbon cable that is directly underneath the thin rubber gasket with a razor blade while trying to remove the polarization and emulsion layer. Which lead me to purchase another unit today. The gameboy was in very good condition no external damage or dead pixel or lines, I was so exited.

I've spent the whole entire day messing with this thing and I'm at my wits end.

I solder the backlight into the second one and then power it on, the screen only has one horizontal line at the top which I don't really mind to much but the the entire screen is completely white. The contrast wheel isn't any help, it doesn't function any longer besides slightly changing the contrast of the horizontal line. The gameboy is still functioning as it starts up and the little ping sounds and the game starts but still nothing but a blank screen.

I really need help is there anything I can do to fix this?