I had two flash carts that I never updated from 3.9.9 because right around the switch to version 4.x the noise channel transpose column in tables was altered, and the advice at the time was to convert those to "S" commands. A lot of my tables were already using both command columns as well as using the transpose column as an extra column for "S" commands, there was no room in the tables to add an "S" command, so I was unable to upgrade without breaking compatibility with some songs I had already made.

On a third flash cart I started fresh so I kept up with the updates for a while, but stopped around 4.7.3, which is coincidentally when the steady flow of updates stalled for a while. I recently updated this cartridge to what is currently the latest version 6.8.3 to check it out and it seems I missed a whole lot of changes. Can anyone give me the rundown on how to fix older songs so they will work on the newest version? I would like to at least give it a shot this time since I'm so far behind. There is a lot of information on the changelog and I'm just looking for the major changes that broke backwards compatibility. From my understanding so far, it seems I'll need to fix any of my "R00" commands, as well as any "L" or "P" command, as the pitch bending has been overhauled. Maybe there are a few other changes I'm unaware of or can't remember. If anyone has advice I would appreciate it.

EDIT: Guess this place is pretty dead, huh? Well, I ended up getting most of the older stuff I thought was worth keeping up and working on 6.8.3 from as far back as the 3.x versions. If anyone comes here looking for the same advice, you'll need to redo pretty much all L, P, R commands. Most of my V commands didn't seem to change. Some random commands didn't behave the same in certain situations L commands with no instrument do not do crazy pitch bends anymore. Also the pulse channel fine tuning can be slightly different so look out for that.

2

(97 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I would like to express my interest in this. My vote is for an FM chip, oh man this would be so amazing.

I had something similar happen to one of my backlit LCD's, the ribbon cable just quit on me all of a sudden. Here is a video of it, is this what you are experiencing?

http://vimeo.com/14201681

4

(49 replies, posted in General Discussion)

For the most part, I seem to only get inspiration when I'm procrastinating, typically a school project. It's terribly unfortunate for me, because I have no control over it, and it only happens when I really should be doing something else, lol. Also, when I'm really getting something good, I can't stop and come back to it later, I almost always have to finish a song all in one sitting, if I come back to it I really have trouble expanding or improving anything. There have been very few instances that I can think of, where I had like 20+ hours of refining over about a months time and had good results, which is very rare for me.

5

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

So the other LCD that I thought I ruined attempting to peel the film off 2 years ago was actually okay also. Same situation as the first one: I had only started to peel off the foily layer, and it start peeling in fine strips and I thought it was doomed, but the polarizer layer was still there, and it came off all in one piece, woohoo! Finally I can use these extra backlights that have been sitting in my drawer for 2 years, lol.

Word of advice, stick a piece of white paper behind the LCD and if it still appears to be that infamous shade of green (or greenish tint), you haven't peeled both layers off.

6

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

kitsch wrote:

what type of backlight, and which tutorial did you follow?

some say that you don't need to cut any of the plastic frame.  not cutting the part that the wires overlap puts pressure on the wires/PCB when the case is put back together, and this isn't good of course.

so, *if* you're using a backlight which claims you don't need to snip the plastic, don't believe it.  you should. 

OR, the backlight is a thicker model than most now??? 

so, where did you get, what did you follow?

Pretty sure this is one of Nonfinite's older 1.5mm dual smt backlights, and I've only ever followed his tutorials. I'm pretty sure the newer backlights have slimmed down since then, and yeah I have to snip the plastic. What I was actually doing is just swapping the backlight from an LCD with a broken ribbon cable, to another functioning LCD. I think what was happening was the wire coming from the red line and resistor was touching another solder point on the pcb when it was closed, so I surrounded it with scotch tape (lol, ran out of electrical tape). It works fine now, so I'm guessing that was the problem, or I just got lucky when closing it up this time.

7

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Vile wrote:

Q-tips and rubbing alcohol, 99% if you can get it. Don't worry about ruining the LCD with that, the glass is pretty tough and the alcohol won't eat through anything like other house hold cleaners.

Thanks it works great now. Another problem though. When I put everything back together it works fine, until I close the shell and screw it back together, I can tell it's a tight fit, and it won't power on. If I loosen the screws and make a gap between the front and back shell it powers on. What is happening, and how can I fix this?

8

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Okay, so I think I might have been able to salvage an LCD that I previously thought was a lost cause. I must have somehow missed the second layer, and I was able to remove it this time. The problem is, there is some residue left over on the backside of the LCD. I haven't been brave enough to attempt to clean it off because I'm unsure if it would destroy the LCD. Is there a proper way to clean it?

9

(180 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

This is a dream come true for me. How would one go about acquiring an Arduinoboy?