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Shadowransom

This is so much better than my idea for an NES X-Band!

(Just kidding, that would be a terrible idea. My point is that it is astounding how versus-over-WAN is such an amazing idea to bring to the NES, and that's maybe 5% of all the cool shit this thing can do.)

There actually was a GBA port/remake of River City Ransom, called River City Ransom EX.

There have been murmurs of a true "River City Ransom 2" for a while now, but it looks like vaporware from where I'm reading about it.

How long were you messing with it by trying to heat the cable?

I've done this three times and managed to get all of the lines back every time, but it can take a long time… I think it took up to half an hour straight for some of my front PCBs. I've recovered screens that were half-gone before.

If you use the right heat, keep the iron moving, and make sure to keep your iron tip coated in a fresh tin (both for efficient heat transfer and for the sake of not ruining the tip), I think there's a good chance you'll be able to get the back with enough elbow grease.

Yeah, I use flux-cored stuff, but sometimes nothing beats dedicated flux.

I hate lead free with a passion because it's so much harder to get a wet joint with the stuff, and so much easier to cook your circuits. I also ruin my tips really fast when I'm doing lead-free (I have a cheaper iron, so it doesn't really have the best tips).

That said, I still try to use lead free as a standard operating procedure when I build something entirely with new parts. Even if you do clean solder work, is the functional life of your product in the long term still compromised by having used lead free solder?

I've done this before, swapping the stock red LED for a white one to match my preferred backlight color. I completely overlooked matching the resistor to the LED and didn't notice any ill effect.

As a way to cheat, if you can't remember which lead is anode and which is cathode, you can just look at the elements inside of the LED and make sure the replacement is oriented the same way.

In theory, the cathode side of the LED is marked with a notch or a flat spot cut out of the casing, but I've seen inconsistencies with this practice in the field.

The issue here, specifically, is semantic: "Smart Cart" is a generalized and colloquial term for a reprogrammable flash cartridge in our dev community / music scene. However, this can easily refer to multiple products with significant technical differences.

I assumed from the wording in the first post that our friend was specifically looking for the "Smartboy 32" flash cartridges, which include their own flasher in the retail packaging – one 32M MBC5 Flash cartridge, one USB Flasher/Cartridge Reader interface. I understand this cartridge/flasher system to be based on an open source/noncommercial design, which makes it an ethical gray area to manufacture or sell such a product without taking that into account.

This exists in contrast to the EMS 32 carts and the EMS transferrer (which I believe to be out of production), as well as the EMS "GB USB 64M" carts. These have been commonly available, and have served as the most common dev cartridge in the scene since the BleepBloop fiasco made a lot of noise and went out of production. They aren't the same design, and are functionally a different product.

EDIT: Fixing my acronym folly (FMAF)