1

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Apeshit wrote:

Sounds like the same issue. EMS carts draw a fair bit of extra power. At this point I think backlights should be connected to the battery source as standard practice.

Or the secondary regulator board like urbster suggested. I have had several issues with them from doing 1/4 prosound. Starting to think they aren’t worth it.

Should I keep the ground at the capacitor under lcd or ground to battery?

Thanks you guys. I’ll update when and if this works out.

2

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Thanks Apeshit. Yes the Arduinoboy is powered by link port. I was thinking about doing this. I don’t tap directly to LED though but instead to its resistor by the lcd frame?

Now for the one with yellow backlight. It overheats ( gets pretty warm but not hot ) just by running lsdj. I am using an EMS cart and I understand it can cause power draw. I’ll try it with a derp cart when I get my paws on it. It was a gift for someone so I don’t have it with me. He says he played for an hour or so on batteries and said it gets warm but doesn’t get hot. No other problems. He’s content but I am not. Especially because I did the mod.

3

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

It’s a yellow backlight from ASMRetro. I got it a couple years ago with a bunch of other stuff. It’s been sitting in a drawer until I had project that needed it. I can’t remember what version it was but I remember it said it has built in resistors. I do have a GBMUK backlight with built in resistors and I can actually see the resistors on the little tab at the bottom. The ASM backlight does not have any visible resistors nor did it come with one separately.

4

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

First of all thank you for responding. The mod you suggested looks very simple I will definitely give this a go.

As far as the 100ohm resistor. Does this still apply if the backlight has built in resistors?

5

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Bump

6

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

So I have two dmgs with overheating regulator boards. One has a backlight and rca prosound and only gets hot when I use it with arduinoboy. The other has a backlight, rca prosound and 1/4 prosound therefore I had to move regulator board. That one gets hot just playing it by itself. I have done tons of googling and searching and it seems that adding a resistor can possibly solve these problems. I’ve seen so many different values of resistors recommended and with my lack of knowledge on resistors it’s made it rather confusing. I ordered 30ohm from Amazon. I’m hoping that will be enough. Is there anything else I need to know about the resistor?

Also I believe these backlights have resistors built in. Shouldn’t this have prevented the overload?
I would really appreciate some advice. I’ve posted in other threads but they just get lost in the heap and I haven’t gotten a response 

Thnx.

7

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Don’t mean to hijack this thread but I also have a regulator heat issue. My question is do I add the resistor to positive wire of the backlight? What value resistor? Does it matter if the backlight has a built in resistor?

Hey I actually went with the EMS cart. Got it from Hong Kong for like 35$. Tried out ems qart and it’s soooo much easier. This is fantastic. Made me drag out my old EMS cart and flashed some games in it. Thanks Merutochan!

Ok. Here’s an update.

Replaced the wire I used to move the board and I got the backlight to power up but it’s real dim and the power led doesn’t light up. So I tried a new board and I got nothing again. No power, no dim backlight just dead. Tried a third board and now I have power led coming on, backlight comes on but now the screen doesn’t change contrast, there is no speaker pop when I turn it on and the boot logo doesn’t drop and go “ping”. Getting frustrated but still having fun tinkering.

Awesome. I’ll check it out when I get home. I have a feeling too much solder may have bridged a couple of wires. Thanks for the tip.

Call me crazy but I don’t have a continuity tester. Should probably remedy that. Could I just replace the board with another from a different gb?

I just did a backlight, 1/4 prosound and RCA prosound in one gameboy. I've done all of these before with no problem but never all 3 in one GB. It powers on with power adapter and the backlight and both prosounds work fine. When I put batteries in nothing happens power wise but the batteries and the terminals get hot quick! Where could the culprit be? Could it be something to do with the little board that i moved from left to right to make room for 1/4? My solder connections seem pretty sound and I don't see any obvious signs. Did a search but nothing about what I have going on.

I want to build a gameboy for my buddy's birthday and get him set up to start making some tunes. Obviously I need to supply a cart for him but which one would be best. I have an EMS smart cart and a couple of Drag n Derps so I haven't really been keeping up with whats out there cause I'm more or less set. I don't really want to shell out 100 bones for a Drag n Derp or give him the headache of dealing with the EMS. So my question is this...

What are some good cart options for lsdj/midiGB? Has there been any improvements with the EMS cart and Windows?

14

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

All LEDs light up. Mode select button functions and light up with each press. DMG set to master and Arduinoboy set to master when I press start LEDs cycle in time with bpm.

Edit: spelling

15

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Ok. That seemed to work. Arduinoboy powers on when I turn on game boy.  Cycles through LEDs. Once the cycle completes they all turn off. Is that normal?

16

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I'll give it a shot but I'd like to point out that on the pic on kitsch's site one of the outermost pins on the DIN is empty.