A quick how to for installing drivers without signatures on Windows 10 OS
1. Enter 'PC Settings' and select 'Update and Security'
2. Select 'Recovery' from the sidebar
3. Under 'Advance Startup' select 'Restart Now'
4. Once you've rebooted, select 'Troubleshoot'
5. From there head into 'Advanced Options'
6. Select 'Startup Settings', you will be prompted to reboot again
7. You should be brought to Startup Settings that you can change
8. Select 'Disable Driver Signature Enforcement' by pressing f7

You will now be able to install drivers without signatures, enabling you to easily run your EMS 64m smart card. This is worlds easier than on Windows 7, as the usual method involved software to enable test mode and write signatures. The difference here is that Windows itself brings you through all the steps and reboots.

Cheers!

EDIT: This is being performed on a 64bit system as well, and has been flashing like a dream so far

34

(13 replies, posted in Tutorials, Mods & How-To's)

kineticturtle wrote:
GoingHam wrote:

On a side note: Is anyone else's SGB prosound lacking significant audio signal from the right channel?
Or is it just mine hmm
Cause I've prosounded two SGBs but this seems unavoidable.

Yes, I had the exact same problem. It was never more than a curiosity for me though, so I never put much time into a solution.

I was getting shit sound from the start, total tits up, my left channel was a bit worse though. Thought it was my wiring, but everything checked out. I replaced the caps and now it sounds great, no discernible difference between channels, maybe this will help you all as well.

35

(1 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Not necessarily, there are a few different factors. When I restore an NES I usually clean the original pin connector, then I'll CAREFULLY bend the pins themselves so that they make contact with the cart without the need to press the game down into the NES. Pushing the game down is considered a factor in bending the pins out of alignment in the first place. If you are getting a solid blue instead of blinking, I'm assuming your lockout chip has been disabled. If you're opening it up anyways i would check the lockout chip as well and ground it if it isn't already. Just a few thoughts, but let me know if any of this helps. I bought a new pin connector once in my lifetime, and absolutely hated it. I restore/mod vintage electronics for a living so I've fixed a fair amount of NES without replacing the pin connector.

36

(5 replies, posted in Releases)

Oh yeah! I'm feelin this one. I had imagined a concept album of the Aldous Huxley novel, but what I got were chilled out traveler's tales. Very well done, can't wait to hear more.

37

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

jam wrote:
egr wrote:

Excellent idea.

Agreed. I've never fitted a frontlight kit from kitsch bent, what would need changing in the design? Will be ordering one in a couple of weeks.

DropMontage wrote:

Cool, thought I'd chuck some thoughts out there anyway. Either way I'm definitely interested in this project, and I'm also currently working on resin casting cases. I'd love to see this come to life.

Are you posting progress online anywhere? Would love to see!

Currently no, just started this project with GBA in mind. Any progress and 3d designs I make will be uploaded on Thingiverse and here. As far as the front light kits go, they fit well in the original GBC case, with two small(28 awg?) leads coming from the left and right sides. Should be easy to work in, especially if you're bonding the frontlight to the LCD via LOCA.

38

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Cool, thought I'd chuck some thoughts out there anyway. Either way I'm definitely interested in this project, and I'm also currently working on resin casting cases. I'd love to see this come to life.

39

(31 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Just a thought, what if instead of adding depth, you added width for the extra components and jacks? With a slightly more ergonomic feel, almost a cross between GBC and GBA, more so rooted to the GBC design. Also what are you using for 3d modeling, and who are you getting your quotes from? Earlier this year I found a Maker Space near me which is about $50 a month, but gives me access to laser cutting and 3d printing. Worth looking into, if not for mass production at least prototype runs for 3d prints and pcb design. I realize this could be an entirely new project altogether, and in no way mean to diffuse your project, as it is looking pretty good so far.

Bad capacitors can contribute to a lot of different problems, flickering screens, poor contrast control, poor audio, etc. There are 17 capacitors in a DMG-01, you can purchase these in pre-made kits from people like Kitsch, or you can grab them from Mouser or other wholesale retailers. I've been restoring and modding vintage electronics for around 10 years now, and capacitors are always where I start. It resolves most issues and usually brings the unit back to like new working conditions. There is really no reason not to since they're so cheap. The style you would be looking for are Aluminum electrolytic capacitors-leaded, the capacitance you need will be Qty 4 100uF at 10V, Qty 2 100uF at 6.3V, Qty 1 33uF at 25V, Qty 7 1uF at 50V, Qty 1 10uF at 25V, and Qty 2 10uF at 16V. I generally buy the smallest size I can find, as long as it meets the capacitance. I also buy mostly Panasonic, and always RoHS compliant. This will require basic soldering/desoldering skills. In short, this should bring your gameboy back to its prime, while also insuring that any mods you put in will recieve the appropriate charge needed.

PS-When installing, most capacitance requirements are written both on the board and the cap you remove, with a note of where the positive lead goes. Positive leads are the longer leads on a cap, but dont worry if you've already trimmed them, as the negative lead of a capacitor is marked on the body.

Right on! Feels like riding a longboard into a boss fight.

42

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Scazon wrote:

Howdy! The game is number 6 of a project I'm doing to make 8 small GB games. It's meant more like a simple music toy than a sequencing program, which is why it doesn't include saving (also I only just learned how to implement saving recently, which I'm using for http://patchworkgames.itch.io/happyhedgehog, my entry for PetJam on Itch.io).

If there's interest, I would totally be up for expanding it into a more powerful sequencer after the rest of the project is completed!

Thanks for playing!
-Patch

Good stuff! I've been having fun with this for the past hour or so, Cheers!

In addition, you should replace your capacitors. They're past their shelf life, very cheap, and do worlds of wonders for all sorts of problems.