Search options (Page 53 of 60)

Inverted is basically what is says.. inverted..
the black pixels are now white, and the white pixels are black. This is because the polarised sheet that is placed behind the screen is turned 90 degrees.

the reason people use this, is because it also turns the spacings between the pixels black, thus creating a bigger contrast in the screen. The problem with the contrast is indeed a bit anoying sometimes, and varies from colour to colour.. Make sure your batteries are full...
So you should get an inverted picture, if you get a normal picture, or half a picture, change the batteries, and adjust the contrast...

If you still have trouble getting your picture right, you might want to try and untighten the screws in your gameboy just a little bit (pcb or case) as the backlight takes up some room, the screen can sometimes be squashed causing the pixels to fade (Like what happend when you press your finger on your calculator screen)

But in all seriousness. I don't have that much technical insight that i know what really caused the buzzing sound. I biverted my gameboys as well, but I never noticed it before.. (Then again, I'm not as anal about my sound as Monodeer )
I couldn't tell you if it happens with all biversions, or just the version of chip that I used. It looks like the chip somehow interferes with the sound of the gameboy, but I've got no clue as to how. It's one of those things that shouldn't happen, but still does.

If you're going to use your gameboy just for LSDJ, you can easily just get an inverted backlight and then use an inverted colourscheme in LSDJ, works the same as biversion, without the hassle of soldering hex inverters etc.

Glad i could be of little help

I was watching the video and thinking, Wow, they actually explain it quite well, in a way most people will understand! And no Mario reference!

And then the presenter kills it of..
It's like they just can't let it go...

Other than that, cool video!
And nice to see some faces with the names

Atari and gameboy (With arduinoboy) Both use Midi, so that's not really a problem

Sync24 is for old machines like the TB-303, TR-808 etc, And Prophet64 on the commodore.
That's why it's a different schematic etc.

If only everything  was midi...

Ah, bugger...
Would be a really cool and cheap sync option...

Ah well, It's still awesome
I'll just keep using my arduinoboy for syncing then.

150 ohm on the run/stop and clock.
Seems to work. Nothing is smoking yet.

Didn't connect continue since prophet doesn't do continue

It does however sound like there's a few milliseconds delay in triggering. But that could just be my imagination...