As a long time moderator of another forum, I agree with Kitsch' actions. It wasn't so much that he had an agenda against the OP, but that he was shutting down a troll fest.

kitsch wrote:
Jazzmarazz wrote:

I would also like to mention that the electrolytic caps on the front board can effect the LCD. Replacing them at this point could help.

since whatever that effect is called fixed a lot by this

I'm having trouble understanding your comment. Is it sarcasm, reassurment, offense? Punctuation helps my friend.:)

I would also like to mention that the electrolytic caps on the front board can effect the LCD. Replacing them at this point could help.

868

(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

"I am Mega ran can you get that thing out of my bag there" lol

869

(97 replies, posted in Trading Post)

BLEO wrote:

Oh I missed this. eMerger is this: http://www.emuparadise.me/reviews/emerger/

Are you a member of EP?

870

(9 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Be sure to remove the existing pot before soldering a new one to the terminals.

For the original retrobright guide, visit amibay.org

That is the home of the guy who "created" it. It will have the most comprehensive guide and FAQs.

It is mostly present on all gameboy transformers, by the manufacturer of the part. Some have more than others, some just have a fine film-like substance.

Heat can always damage something, but many parts are rated up to very high temperatures. What kind of heat are you getting? Like, really really hot? tongue

What you need to do is check every inch of both boards. From voltage regulator, to CPU, preamp and even underneath the LCD. If you are lucky, one of your pins is bridged and not actually damaged. P11 is the CPU pin associated with B and Left. If this pin becomes bridges to ground, it will never trigger a press in software. Again, you need to check everything. Solder can crackle and pop and little bits could fly onto your board and bridge pins. Look for particles and debris.

When I fixed some buttons once, it was because of corrosion on the front PCB. The corrosion was nearly invisible, and looked like a tiny shadow on the trace. I checked both sides with a multimeter and found that there was no continuity. I repaired the trace and all was good. Again, if you're lucky. wink

The green stuff is glue, don't worry about that.
as for the destruction, he meant that the Left and B button associated to a pin on the CPU could become shorted with the LCD voltage pin, VEE, which is -19v! You asked if "only the back circuit board is destroyed," but it is actually the CPU that becomes destroyed. All other components should remain usable. The front board should be fine.

You said "with batteries in" but was it powered on? Only if it is powered on would there be damage, more likely.
Were you having problems with the buttons?

The four pin IC says:

NEC
2701
L006

http://www.cel.com/pdf/datasheets/ps2701.pdf

The larger IC says:

SPCP868A-EG021
MFS1212.1
1033

thursdaycustoms wrote:

Right on. If they've updated the page I think it's safe to guess that it's the new version without the optoisolator/photocoupler.

I'll probably just buy the M-Audio unit AGAIN. I tore my last one up to make a USB Arduino Boy...

You're not using Teensies in those?

thursdaycustoms wrote:

Haha nice! Do you have a link for where you got that one? The PCB for mine was a different version. I followed all the correct MIDI schematics and the thing just still won't work.

Amazon still had the link in my history from years ago;
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HP … &psc=1
The pic is different but Amazon says that it is what I bought.

I suppose I did just get lucky.

thursdaycustoms wrote:

Hm. Well I know a lot of them are missing the actual optoisolator. I bought 4 of them on eBay and they only did clock sync.
Maybe you got lucky and they finished assembling it!

You mean the circuit is printed there, but the hardware is simply missing? WTF!

thursdaycustoms wrote:

DO NOT buy that kind of cable. It will basically only send sync. No data. They don't fully work. You need to spend closer to $30 and up unfortunately. I would recommend the M-Audio Uno:
http://m-audio.com/products/en_us/Uno.html

Works for me and I have used PC trackers, keyboards and my digital sax. :shrug:

D3LL wrote:

I looked at this one earlier, but wasn't quite sure if it was used to send midi to a computer to master.

In the description it said "This USB MIDI cable easily turns your computer into a music studio and gives you the power to play songs on your keyboard or other controller"

But if you have it or see anything otherwise please make note of it smile

Nitro suggested something better, but I own the cable I linked you to.
It pops up on your PC as a MIDI device which can both send and receive MIDI.