Jazzmarazz wrote:
friendofmegaman wrote:

Theoretically... could we leverage some parallel interface for that? It should be feasible to clock it from GB clock and get all the data as needed. In fact we only need VSYNC, CLOCK, DATA0, DATA1... some 4 pin parallel interface anyone?

Yeah, possibly. The only problem I see is that very few people are going to have access to a parallel interface at home, let alone "on the road."


How bout this? http://www.amazon.com/Printer-25-Pin-Pa … B005HBKOH6

Dismantle the fucker and shove into a GB?

jazzmarazz wrote:

The 74HC165 is a Parallel-In, Serial-Out shift register... however I think that it may not be connected directly to a USB cable. lol
Maybe an RS232 cable, but not directly USB... it was a wild idea any way. The thought was to have no microcontroller to reduce size and cost.

Theoretically... could we leverage some parallel interface for that? It should be feasible to clock it from GB clock and get all the data as needed. In fact we only need VSYNC, CLOCK, DATA0, DATA1... some 4 pin parallel interface anyone?

UPDATE
Ok, quick check tells me that there's DB25 printer port which is absent in pretty much all of the modern machines, but I'm sure we could emulate via USB.

Another thing is could we somehow leverage TCP/IP stack to handle large volumes of information? Does anybody know how Ethernet shiled works for instance. If packing data into TCP/IP frame is completely handled by the shield and is fast enough then we could think of feeding it parallel data somehow...

It was just random brainstorming...

Jazzmarazz wrote:

Well, I was in the process of moving when this thread started and then I got a new job ... and more than a month later, I have my home office mostly set up. I can finally dedicate some time and effort into this project.

Now, what I am doing is going back to the basics. For the time being I am ignoring Hsync and Vsync and just focusing on clock and data. That means if I get a picture, it will be skewed, but at this point, all I care about is a picture! Any picture! Also worth mentioning, I am working with a 16MHz arduino pro mini so I have to focus on sketch streamlining. The reason I set aside my Teensy is because they are expensive and anyone wanting to build this into a GB will be put off by the Teensy's price and size. I also think that the CPP to machine code conversion for the Teensy's CPU is worse than that of the atmega168.

I have to go grocery shopping before I can sit down and modify friendofmegaman's PC-side code but I have a simple fast program for the arduino:
1. wait for clock interrupt
2. Serial.print(PORTB)
3. repeat

PORTB is just a byte with data0 and data1 at the farthest right bits. The PC is going to do the horizontal counting for me, at least until I get a legit picture. Once I get that picture, I will implement Vsync. Hsync may remain as a simple counter on the PC-side.

Future goal: implement composite video output without the help of a PC.

brb


Nice, but how does it address the fact that clock (and therefore data) comes in as fast as 4Mbs and therefore you only have 16/4 = 4 cycles to do anything with it?

100

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Actually I've just noticed that 12ianma answered my question about parallel cells. I somehow missed it, so my bad, and thanks a lot for the help! smile However it doesn't change the point for stargazer's issue.

101

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

stargazer wrote:

Well I don't really know about all of that, but here's what I'm talking about:

Is it safe to assume that this circuit is a charging circuit? Would a charging circuit be more voltage tolerant than the cell itself?

I'd say it's not safe to assume anything in case of LiPo batteries since if you wire them wrong you might end up burning the battery and most likely damage the device. I'm sorry I can't really see what's written on this chip and I'd would be good to know it's specification. As I said it might be temperature sensor. What worries me in this case is that the third pin is there for a reason. It means that something must be wired there to control how the battery charges/discharges.

So to summarize - I wouldn't use the battery unless I know everything about it. Simply for the safety sake. Imagine you left the thing at home at it burned and your desk or whatever caught on fire (or is it too paranoid? O_o). Can you get something similar for you needs from batteryspace? There you can purchase a battery with known number of cells and get a protective boeard for your pack.

102

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

stargazer wrote:

3.7v. I guess maybe I'm incorrectly assuming that if it has a circuit built in, the circuit is a lot more voltage tolerant than the cell itself?

The voltage written on the battery will be the voltage of the battery independently on whether it has protective circuit or not. So if it's a 3.7V battery with a circuit it will say 3.7V. But you could measure it with the multimeter couldn't you?

Third pin however might or might not indicate the presence of protection. It might be just dummy pin which is quite typical for cheap aftermarket stuff. It could be simple temperature sensor, or smart full-featured protective board. So if you buy a battery from a good source and the battery has the spec - just check with it. Otherwise I don't see how to verify all that without dismantling the battery and even then you need to reverse engineer the board (if one is present) and figure what does it do. Does it protect from both overdischarging of overcharging? Or is it just for discharging. Do you see what I mean?

For example I've got hold of a DSi battery, but have no idea how many cells are there and whether a circuit is there or not. It has 3 pins all right, but it could be a dummy pin attached to ground or always returning OK status. So although I like the form-factor of this battery I won't be using it since I don't have the spec. If say it has more than 1 cell, then I need to take care of how they charge and discharge (balance them in other words) and the way they must be balanced depends on how many fucking cells are there smile

Anyways... this is the stuff I've read from various resources like battery university, but dunno how is it on practice. That's why I brought up this originally, but got no answer apart from accusation of asking pointless questions (it actually becomes quite typical for this forum which is a shame, I guess fantastic expert gurus sitting here won't descent to a noob like me).

103

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

katsumbhong wrote:
friendofmegaman wrote:

What? It's exactly what I wrote, and that's why I'm asking about the number of cells... Anyways I'll figure on my own, thanks, this discussion becomes pretty pointless.

If it was multi-cell, and you know that they are in a parallel circuit, your question is redundant. Your question is pointless.

Yah as I said I'll manage on my own. Thanks for you help.

104

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

katsumbhong wrote:
friendofmegaman wrote:

Well the reason I'm asking is that I want to hook it up with a usb charger and a protective circuit that prevents overcharging and overdischarging. This is necessary with li-on/po batteries otherwise the thing might heat up too much and damage the actual device it is powering. So I need to know do I need a protective board for a single cell or for 2 or more cells. It might be that the battery already has the protective board, but I it could by that all the protection is handled by DSi itself.

Now since it provides 3.7 volts it's either a single cell or a pack of cells in parallel.

PS I probably didn't state it clear but I'd like to install it in a game boy pocket, not SP.

Rule of thumb: Lithium Ion Battery = YOU SHOULD ADD A PROTECTIVE CHARGING CIRCUIT.


What? It's exactly what I wrote, and that's why I'm asking about the number of cells... Anyways I'll figure on my own, thanks, this discussion becomes pretty pointless.

105

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

katsumbhong wrote:
friendofmegaman wrote:

I grabbed one from ebay just to check its size and how it'd fit a pocket ( since 2A is quite an impressive capacity). Turns out this is smaller than anything on batteryspace with the same capacity and requires minor modification of battery compartment (as opposed to completely removing it and even relocating some of the caps). The only question is - how do we know is it a single Li-Ion cell or several cells connected in parallel? Thanks!

Unwrap the protective skin of the battery... carefully.

Why would you want to know if it's multiple batteries or not???

The important thing you need to know about them is output and how much capacity the unit has. The number of cells isn't important.

If it had a bazillion cells but had a low charge capacity, it wouldn't stack up to a battery with 1 or 2 cells with a higher charge capacity.


Well the reason I'm asking is that I want to hook it up with a usb charger and a protective circuit that prevents overcharging and overdischarging. This is necessary with li-on/po batteries otherwise the thing might heat up too much and damage the actual device it is powering. So I need to know do I need a protective board for a single cell or for 2 or more cells. It might be that the battery already has the protective board, but I it could by that all the protection is handled by DSi itself.

Now since it provides 3.7 volts it's either a single cell or a pack of cells in parallel.

PS I probably didn't state it clear but I'd like to install it in a game boy pocket, not SP.

106

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I grabbed one from ebay just to check its size and how it'd fit a pocket ( since 2A is quite an impressive capacity). Turns out this is smaller than anything on batteryspace with the same capacity and requires minor modification of battery compartment (as opposed to completely removing it and even relocating some of the caps). The only question is - how do we know is it a single Li-Ion cell or several cells connected in parallel? Thanks!

107

(9 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Hi there,

So it obviously possible to modify original arduinoboy to use single In or single Out jack. But how about single jack for both and its function (in or out) is defined by the mode?

108

(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Ordered a couple of these LCDs let's see if they can be used with DMG. I really doubt though...
If you guys want to play with them as well here's the ebay lot http://www.ebay.com/itm/290925049233

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(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

katsumbhong wrote:

Just wire up the MGB LCD onto the front board of a DMG.


I think he explained that he wants more space for mods didn't he?

If it wasn't for the space then I'd totally agree. IMO wiring LCD is easier than the cartridge slot.

110

(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Gamer_freak8520 wrote:

so, could there be away that i can put my MGB in my DMG case?

Dude people made far more complicated mods than this so of course there is a way you can put your MGB in your DMG case, absolutely. You can totally do that. The problem is that it appears nobody has done this particular mod before so you are the first one to try. Do it and share with us and your name will be forever remembered for this mod. If you expect people will give you step-by-step tutorial - scarce the chance it will happen.

Let me sum up for you the contents of this thread:
1. Kitsch's breakout for DMG won't work. See uXe post about buttons. You might need to experiment with it there's nothing wrong in that. After all there's no easy way.
2. LSDJ often crashes on pocket so you could try plugging a LiPo cell instead of 2AAAs - DMG's battery compartment allows you to do that. Make the best out of it - find a cell with as much capacity as possible and don't forget protective circuit.
3. DO NOT use 9V battery. You'll burn the thing.

Aside from that:
- Link port, headphone jack, DC outlet and volume pot are different in DMG and MGB. So you might want to rewire  these parts from DMG to your MGB
- In fact you can't afford battery contacts on MGB PCB (it won't fit DMG shell) so your only option is some rechargeable solution
- I'm not sure MGB PCB is a good fit into the DMG shell, so you might need to trim out part of the battery compartment

EDIT
And don't forget about the cartridge slot! It's better to use DMG slot since it can be screwed to the shell. Thus you need to re-wire it as well.

Duplicate post

Dadibom wrote:

Wasn't the whole point to get a precie image straight from the hardware? If you're recording with a camera you should remove the screen cover and put the camera further away if it can't focus that close

If you read the thread attentively then you've probably noticed that I called the cam idea a spin off project.

And secondly the point is to make a small recording device. If I could cram a webcam and GB lcd in a tiny box then the goal was somewhat achieved. But then again - it's just a curious idea, I'm more interested in getting raw data to PC and building an image there.