Come to think of it, I have the same polarity issue with a white backlight in a dmg. I just got so used to leaving it in a sweet spot. The contrast on that one isn't real great either, but better than the blue.

It is blue! So this is normal? I tried it first with an orange backlight in a dmg and it didn't have the polarization issue, but it wasn't half as bright or sharp as I expected it to be. Again, nothing like what I've seen from others.

So I put the orange into a pocket instead, and it looks better but not great. I took the blue out of the pocket and put it into the dmg.  The blue looked really good in the pocket, no polarization issue, but was giving me something like 25 minutes battery life.

So a blue backlight really should just have a sweet spot of contrast? And a strange polarity trick?

It seems like I read about this same problem on a thread here a long time ago, but I can't seem to find it with a search. I backlit and biverted with HHL supplies, followed the YouTube instructions they link to from This Does Not Compute. As I set it, the polarization should have it normal, not inverted.

Starting with the contrast pot rolled all the way toward the top of the dmg, the faintest shadow of an image is visible. As I roll the pot down, an inverted image appears though not a really nice looking image. As I continue to roll it down, the image almost immediately stops looking inverted and gets to looking almost acceptable but nothing near as good as all of the other modded gameboy a I've ever seen. It basically disappears rolled down anywhere past that.

I feel so sure I've heard of others encountering this same issue. Does this sound like a bivert module issue? Cap replacement necessary? Damaged led ribbon? It' so close to great, I really am puzzled by this. I've got a video of the behavior, I'll try to figure out how to post it.

You guys are all awesome! Thanks a million for the varied feedback, it's all been really helpful and enlightening. I ended up preordering a 2.7 cart and putting the demo on a flash to get acclimated before it gets here. I guess I figure that even if I end up not liking it in the long term, the residual value seems to stay high on these things. I'm so used to lsdj at this point. I'm excited for something new, but fear the frustration of a learning curve. Though it's not like the music I'm currently making is particularly good anyhow.

I've only worked with lsdj on my handhelds. I've had a real itch to try out nanoloop, and was wondering if the iOS version can give me an accurate assessment of the way it works. I know it's cheap and worth it and I'll likely get the app either way, I'm just unsure if I should judge the other versions on this one.

Just ordered one with mGB. Hoping it will stop the backlight dimming that occurs on my pocket while using an ems64. By the by, anyone else get significant dimming while running an ems in a backlit pocket? I would think these little carts will draw less power than the ems. Fingers crossed, excited either way.

Another option- cheapest used android device you can find, running the lsdj file management app.

I adore my tc flashback. Really versatile, relatively affordable if you watch for the right deal, easy to dial in very useable settings. Mine is the plain old mid sized pedal, not the mini or the x4. Not analog, but sweet nonetheless.


(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Does it work at all with lsdj, or just incorrectly? I know analog ticks need to be set at "c" for the volca to sync correctly. I've only used my cable from volca out to lsdj, and the tempos lock and stay synced even with the extra wire connected. I don't have nanoloop to check it, but my multimeter confirms all three pins are active.


(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Yep, I used the nanoloop diagram, but also referenced the one in the lsdj manual, around page 53? Or so. Nanoloop just has an extra wire connected for 'out'. Basically the lsdj diagram is exactly the same as nanoloop, only it doesn't show the bottom left gb pin as connected. The nanoloop wiring works fine for lsdj, and I figured I may as well add the extra connection for future flexibility.


(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Yeah, you're not wrong. My question isn't clear at all. In the end I think I clarified it for myself in the process of typing out that first post. The whole post comes across as someone thinking out loud, which for me isn't exactly conventional, linear, or easily communicable.

It was the start situation that I was curious about, as to what the norm should be for this setup. I tinkered with it, and everything seems right with the actual timing. Sorry about the confusion, I just lack a bit of confidence with this stuff and my thought process isn't super conducive to forum posts, so I don't post often. Still, I really appreciate all of the info that you guys put out there.

Just tinkering with analog sync after picking up a volca beats. Full disclosure, I wired up the cable with the extra wire in case I ever snag nanoloop.

Just checking with you guys to see exactly how I should expect this set up to behave, I'm new to this sync stuff.  Is it normal to have to hit start on the gameboy at just the right time to make the phrases line up properly? As I have it, once I do hit start on the gameboy the tempo changes in sync as I adjust it on the volca and it starts out in a kind of tempo lock also- all good. Should I expect them to start together though? Or for them to line up automatically, with one waiting for the other? After typing this all out I'm guessing this is normal since the only info sent is a tick, but I just thought I would check with y'all.

This is why you guys are my heroes.

I see. Basically I would never have figured that out myself, and am crossing my fingers that someone can tell me which resistor, and where to run the jumper. I can solder pretty well, but usually have no idea what I'm actually doing without pictures or specific directions. Inquiries about this mod seem to come up from time to time, a description here might but a useful for amateurs like myself. Initially I just tried soldering the two side pads from the pcb for the select button over to two posts on the shoulder button. Not working.

Does anyone have some instructions for how to wire this up? I know it's possible, and probably super easy, but the old asm tutorial is missing in action, and my attempt to work it out myself was a solid failure.

Thanks, that totally did it!