1

(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

You might try adding a bypass capacitor to the power supply pins of the inverter. Basically because it's digital, every time the logic level switches it changes the load on the power rail and that adds electrical noise to the whole thing. This will certainly show up in the audio if it's at the right frequency. The cap acts as kind of an electricity reservoir so quick little bursts get taken care of by that instead of the whole system.

That component didn't fail or cause anything else to fail, and nothing else caused that. That's just glue. It's always looked like that. Can't say I know what the problem is with the sound because I don't have the unit in front of me, but usually the problem is the soldering job. The more recent set of pictures doesn't look that bad though, so it's hard to say.

If you're getting a crunching sound out of the pot when you move it, it's dirty inside.

platforma wrote:

I use microphone cable to do the connections so I don't have any noise.

Do you mean xlr cable? I though they are mono only.

Generally, hardware is set up for balanced mono XLR rather than stereo, but stereo is possible. The cables have three conductors (ground, +signal and -signal) so you can run left through one wire and right through the other, then use the ground for both signals.

Nice mods though. The DMG is very clean looking and I like the choice of greyboy buttons. I think they look way better on clear DMGs. smile

It might not be unpowered for long enough to cause data loss. Try leaving it out of the Game Boy, not plugged in to anything for like an hour and see if it's still fine.

5

(76 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Google+ can't possibly be successful because the majority of people using social networking sites just want to add hundreds of people they don't know and bitch as ambiguously as possible like someone cares. Circles don't directly help the user do that so it will fail like all of their other social networking attempts. That said, I'll definitely be signing up.

6

(9 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

You sure can. All you need is a link cable with both connector sizes.

So damn good. I wish these came out more often.

8

(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Excellent, thanks! That will be a much better way to keep everything official and in the same place.

9

(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Since I doubt I'm going to do much more with all the Game Boy related PCB stuff I've made, I see no reason not to release it. I'm sure you should all be familiar with the CC BY NC SA license. I doubt one could profit much from these though. If for some reason you want to do something with them that doesn't conform to that license, feel free to contact me and ask.

The files have been stripped down to (mostly) the original circuits, and I removed all routing on the motherboard and LCD board because they were mostly routed with a bunch of extra goodies (microcontrollers and such). If you know what you're doing, you'd probably want to start fresh anyway though.

Included are EAGLE CAD files for the DMG Motherboard, DMG LCD/Controller board, DMG Headphone board, and a library with most of the proprietary Nintendo components. Please note that some components aren't really finished, and I make no guarantee that any part of these files will actually work.

Here are some pictures so the curious don't have to download the files and EAGLE to view them: http://imageshack.us/g/545/hpb.png/

Download Link

The VIN pin is for unregulated power. You can bypass the regulator all together by running the +5V line into the 5V pin if you're using a regulated 5V source like the Game Boy link port. Note that Game Boy Advances and later models run at 3.3V.

You might also try inserting/removing the cart around 30-40 times to scrape off a thin layer of metal so it's fresh on both the cart and the Game Boy.

Sadly, no. At the moment I don't really have the time or money to invest in development, and lately I've been getting very bored of it very easily. That's not to say I've given up on this or my other projects entirely, but I'm not too sure about this one.

This board needs a lot of work. It needs to be completely re-routed, and I don't think an Arduinoboy is really enough to justify a whole PCB. I can make an Arduinoboy that's just slightly larger than my thumbnail to go in the case and it would be a lot cheaper/less work. I really need to get some other projects out of the way before I can get decide where this one is headed.

What kind of cart is it?

kitsch wrote:

the dmg runs at 5V internally.  meaning, ICs in this range would (typically) have a tolerance of +/- 10% for the voltage supply.  so, a suggested use at 4.5V - 5.5V.  this kit indicates when the batteries can only supply 4.6V.  so, *just* before the batteries can only output right at the lower end of suggested tolerance, which increases the life of electronics.  so, apart from knowing about a soon-to-be-dead battery, there's this also...

The electronics run at 5V, but 4.5V of battery power doesn't mean the +5V rail is at 4.5V. Just to give an example I tossed some different batteries in a DMG with a 32M EMS cart. When the batteries were at 5.1V and 3.8V the output was 4.8V, and when they were at 2.6V the output was 4.7V. That said, below about 4.5 and it got fairly unstable. Not to say the kit is wrong, I'm just questioning the IC life claim.

I do really like this kit though, and I especially admire your choice to make it super clean and not modify the case. I've been looking at ways to monitor the battery level for a while but in the end I just used a voltage divider on a spare analog input of a microcontroller. One question though, since this kit is installed on the unregulated side, can it handle the 6V of fresh batteries or maybe if someone was using a 9V adapter?

stargazer wrote:

Hey guys, thank you so much! For the ps/2 port if i'm looking at the back end of a female port it will be the same as looking at the picture of the male port correct? And for the dmg board layout you posted, by component side do you mean that it is NOT the side you see when you first open the gameboy up?

Yes and yes. The side with the chips on it on it. smile

NeX is right. For reference, these might help.

(viewed from the component side of the board)